On Behalf of Blu3-vl So i had a mate of mine do a a batery relocation for me the other day, he ended up cleaning up some of the wires in the engine bay and we ran a fat ass 0 gauge under the car To the starter motor. And the negative from the Battery to the Back Right Wheel arch bit. From the start motor we have run another cable conencting to a solonoid or a fuze (not sure) looks like a lil plate. And from there the existing accessories are also connected. Anyway when we started it first, she sounded fine so i asked him to "correct" my timing, according to his timign light it was on 33..... (a motor woudlnt run on 33 would it though) So we set it to 17. Anyway i went to leave and the car was runing liek ****, not to mention it took 10 minutes to start it, (got it going with throttle cleaner) but it would idle very rough, fluctuating too. So we tried to increase the timign again but didnt really make a differnce, also adjsuted the computer to higher rpm, no luck either keeping it steady / not feeling liek tiis going to stall. Also, the volts meter would drop down, and go back up when i began drivng. It also stalled a few times on the way home but would click over n go again, running like **** though. Anyway, decided not to look at the ****er for a day or two then tried to start her. SHE JSUT WONT START, Ive attacked EVERYYYYY plug in the car with contact cleaner, inclduing the computer connections. Dizzy (lightly) coil, injectors, tps, afm... every single ****ing plug. No luck, The sparkies where only a month old, and the leads about 5 months old, all barely used (only to work shops etc). Getting iridium plugs and topgun leads on monday to rule them out. COULD IT BE THE CAS!??!? Car has once or twice before with all accesories still going AND stalled jsut before we did the relocation and we had to wait 10min or so before she started again to get her on the hydrolic lifter. WHAT I DID BECAUSE EVERYTHING WAS CLOSED WHEN THE CAR IS OFF ATTACKED EVERY PLUG WITH CONTACT CLEANER and left to dry for 2 hours. On the battery i have volts of 12.6 and that continues right through to the alternator at 12.6. Brand new battery mind you, $300 one from kmart, mate swapped the sticer with a $70 one haha. So we go to start the car, and it cracks, but wont start. Although it has a few times (once or twice within 6 hours of ****ing around) it starts for a split second but dies right away. Also tried to jump start her.... no luck. Obviosuly the problem lies in what was done the other day correct? Earthing? OR SOMETHING NEW?!?! Or could it be a fuel issue? fuel pump primes. We disconnect the fuel feed line and it was pumping it up. REGUALTOR MAYBE!??! Need ideas

firstly, can you hear the fuel pump priming? if not its getting no fuel no blown fuses at all? self explanatory is she just cranking over? possibly the CAS... ive had 2 go on me... one only lasted 3 weeks

^ patch the cas man

Quote: Originally Posted by patch firstly, can you hear the fuel pump priming? if not its getting no fuel no blown fuses at all? self explanatory is she just cranking over? possibly the CAS... ive had 2 go on me... one only lasted 3 weeks Yeah i can hear the fuel pump priming, like i said shes bringing up juice. But maybe the regulator is broken? Will try another cas on monday, hope that does it. Like i said the car HAS stalled before but all electrics continued to work, and also stalled JUST before we did the relocation, had to give her 10min before she started again. So im thinking cas or coil at the very least?

Sounds like your timing is out... I just went through all this pain with my wagon

Hmm, i hope its only that haha, i did wiggle it around a bit to see if it made a differnce, only did it once didnt want to move it too much, although cant get much worse =[

Have you set the dizzy properly though, if you havent advancing/retarding the timing wont help you...

What do you mean have i set the dizzy properly? Basically, i didn't have any problems with idling or with it driving like **** until the mechanic "corrected" the timing form 33 to 17. But IF IT WASSSS on 33, wouldn't the engine have pinged, or blown up haha.

I'm going to suggest the most likely culprit - you stuffed up the battery relocation.

no1 reads nething IT STARTED RIGHT AFTER THE BATTERY RELOCATION. WE CHANGED THE TIMING!!!!! IT RAN LIKE ****T GOT IT HOME!!!!!!! WONT START AGAIN

change the CAS.... if it runs it was the CAS' fault. if it doesn't at least u know it wasnt the CAS i dont see why u have to friggin be on ur period when people are only trying to help u

Quote: Originally Posted by patch change the CAS.... if it runs it was the CAS' fault. if it doesn't at least u know it wasnt the CAS i dont see why u have to friggin be on ur period when people are only trying to help u lmaoooo

Well, it sounds like you have no idea what you're doing, so help me come to another conclusion.

Quote: Getting iridium plugs and topgun leads on monday to rule them out. waste of money, can't be all your plugs or leads

ok will be trying the other cas tommrow, gotta get it back from the mechanic. If its not that, then it has to be fuel related right?

F A C T S Fuel Air Compression Timing Spark You needs these as a minimum to run a motor. If these things are ok, then something is wrong with the modifications you've performed.

also did u keep the fuseable links that come off the battery i had the same prob and 1 of these was rooted and it controlled the injector side of things

yer we kept all them, conencted them to a solonoid thingo, that also connects to the starter motor to get the power from. Then those are earthed to the block. With the battery earthing to the boot. You think one of those fusable links is damaged? Im not even sure what that is haha, is that where one loom meets another, or is that the connectors to the fuse box? Thinking this may be my problem http://calaisturbo.com.au/showthread...=fusable+links (http://calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=32804&highlight=fusable+links) Last pos ton the page - All fixed. Turned out to be the factory alarm over ride switch. My other VL aslo did this but I fixed it by jamming a key into the switch but this one I had to join the 2 pink wires. At least I have 1 going VL now. WHICH SWITCH IS THIS!?!? i recently had an alarm installed maybe thats why no worky?

You need to remove your dash top pad unfortunately to access it. It is a plug with four pins, two of which are pink. Unless you have a Calais optioned with the factory alarm, the two pink wires will be bridged, and it shouldn't cause you any problems. Especially if it started after your battery relocation. It looks like this (notice the two pink wires that are bridged): And the plug that the alarm unit plugs into looks like this (screws upside into the firewall, to the right of the LHS dash speaker):

Quote: Originally Posted by VL CTWR also did u keep the fuseable links that come off the battery i had the same prob and 1 of these was rooted and it controlled the injector side of things Think we may have a winner, gotta undo a **** load of electical tape now =[ What amp rating should i get to replace the fuseable links?