Gday all, just about to change my front shocks around. I have koni yellow shocks all round, superlows in the front and ultras in the back. Now before every man and his dog goes on about mismatch with lowered springs and normal shocks I KNOW Anyway I dont know too much about suspension, so if anybody can point me in the right direction as to front shock choice that would be great, the rear feels fine, its just the front is really bouncey, and just generally gay. Thanks Robert Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

It's bouncy because you have mismatched springs. Sorry, but that's the answer.

Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl It's bouncy because you have mismatched springs. Sorry, but that's the answer. I think it would be more like mismatched shock and spring ie: the shock not controlling the springs expansion and contraction. Its not ride height related

If you think so. But like you said, you don't know about much about suspension.

Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl If you think so. But like you said, you don't know about much about suspension. When you get into complexities about it no, I dont know how to set up my car to handle well, and what individual components I need to match to do it, basics yes, ive had my car for 10 years and had 4 different suspension setups in it, and this is the first one that has resulted in a bouncy front end. I have had different spring heights front and rear with no problem, so I can rule that out, are you happy with my conclusion? Just after some advice on which front struts to buy and alleviate this problem Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

You won't get any shocks that will control superlows really well, although people's definition of 'bouncy' is always different... I have koni specials and I find them to be very good with just king lows in my car. What previous suspension setups are you comparing this current one to?

ive got ultralow lovells in the front with KYB shocks and theyre great, handles awesome, not bouncy at all... just gotta watch goin over bumps with the 18s Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Sorry I have to agree with 5spdvl, I've had adjustable coilovers in my last 4 cars and have played around a lot with different ride heights and lowering the rear more than the front always resulted in a bouncy front that didn't have good turn in. Lowering my VL 7-8mm more in the front made the difference between having rear guard rub and no rear guard rub - when the rear is lowered more than the front the rear loads up so much more and the front becomes light and floaty feeling Anyway if you don’t want to believe that I have another suggestion. I believe Koni yellows have the option to have them rebuilt? Pull them out and get the front rebound valved 20% harder. I recently did this in a Liberty GT on the rears to control bounce with heavy load in the back and it worked very well 87hevn - you need to give your guards a pull and make sure the screw holding the inner guard in is pushed up

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ EVLHSV when the rear is lowered more than the front the rear loads up so much more and the front becomes light and floaty feeling Exactly right. When the front is higher, you've got the uneven weight of the body emphasised towards the rear, giving your rear the sluggish feel, and less weight on the front allowing it to go anywhere it wants.

The reason I am saying it is because I had the same springs with pedders shocks all round and it felt quite alright, no front end bounce at all, changed to koni yellows and had mad front end bounce, so its speaking from personal experience im not just haphazardly guessing at things, like I said the rear is fine, its the front which is letting me down. 20% revalving? I will have to check this out. Ive replaced all the swaybar bushes with nolathane, the rear upper trailing arms are nolathane, lowers are original standard, factory turbo swaybar fe2 Front has nolathane control arms, whiteline swaybar, nolathane adjustable tophats, new z bar nolathane bushes. Another question, are you meant to change your link pins with the whiteline swaybar? Mine are still factory, with nolathane bushes, its a damn fat swaybar To be honest, to look at, the car sits pretty much level, as I have also taken things out, and moved weight around the car also. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I replaced my link pins at the same time as my sway bars, as they were pretty rusty and damaged (chucks missing).

problem is, with anything bigger than 18s on the front and ultralows all round, if the wheels are turned going over any type of bump theyll smash into the guard. so iwas thinking if i put 19s on (calais 15s at the mo) i might switch to supers in the front. would you boys advise against this? it seems many have this combo with larger wheel sizes, you can tell just by looking at the car, is handling adversly affected that much?

I run 19s and superlows in the front and never had a problem, although my guards are rolled and the lips neatly bent up

yea my rears are rolled and are sweet with 235s, but never bothered to do the fronts.

20s on the front with 225 tyres and ultras all round guards have been rolled but not perfectly, the front never scrubs but i had to recentre my diff in the rear to stop the scrubbing on the rear left, it now scrubs both sides but only on biggish bumps

There is absolutely no difference between the following tyre sizes when it comes to clearance: 225/40R18 225/35R19 225/30R20 They are all the same overall size so it makes no difference. What makes the difference is the rim width and offset. The offset determines how far the rim sticks in or out, this can cause problems with guard rub on either the inside or outside depending on the specs 87hevn - your rims look like VX R8? If so they are 18x8 with an offset of +48. With 225/40R18 fronts and the guards pulled your problems will be sorted

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ EVLHSV There is absolutely no difference between the following tyre sizes when it comes to clearance: 225/40R18 225/35R19 225/30R20 They are all the same overall size so it makes no difference. What makes the difference is the rim width and offset. The offset determines how far the rim sticks in or out, this can cause problems with guard rub on either the inside or outside depending on the specs 87hevn - your rims look like VX R8? If so they are 18x8 with an offset of +48. With 225/40R18 fronts and the guards pulled your problems will be sorted yea im assuming the offset of most HSV rims (pre VE anyway) will be ok for the vl, however is it true that changing the width of a tyre lets say 235/40/18, and you put on 225/40/18, does this reduction in width affect the load rating of the tyre for this model car and therefore make it dangerous/illegal? thought you mite have some ideas on this alex? also yea i was runnin VX R8s, had 235s and didnt have a problem scrubbing, only comin down on the tyre when the tyre was actually turned, due to the lowness of the front. i measured the rolling diameter of the calais 15s with 205/65/15s and they were exactly the same as the R8 rims with 235/40/18. not sure if the 19s would be larger, as the even tho the rim is an inch bigger, the lower profile of the sidewall will compensate for this.

Quote: Originally Posted by 87hevn yea im assuming the offset of most HSV rims (pre VE anyway) will be ok for the vl, however is it true that changing the width of a tyre lets say 235/40/18, and you put on 225/40/18, does this reduction in width affect the load rating of the tyre for this model car and therefore make it dangerous/illegal? thought you mite have some ideas on this alex? also yea i was runnin VX R8s, had 235s and didnt have a problem scrubbing, only comin down on the tyre when the tyre was actually turned, due to the lowness of the front. i measured the rolling diameter of the calais 15s with 205/65/15s and they were exactly the same as the R8 rims with 235/40/18. not sure if the 19s would be larger, as the even tho the rim is an inch bigger, the lower profile of the sidewall will compensate for this. This is not an increase in width. It is a one inch increase in overall tyre diameter.

isnt that the profile timmy? the middle number i.e. 40 represents sidewall profile therefore affecting overall diameter, the 235, 225 etc is the width of the tyre in mm?

Quote: Originally Posted by 87hevn yea im assuming the offset of most HSV rims (pre VE anyway) will be ok for the vl, however is it true that changing the width of a tyre lets say 235/40/18, and you put on 225/40/18, does this reduction in width affect the load rating of the tyre for this model car and therefore make it dangerous/illegal? thought you mite have some ideas on this alex? also yea i was runnin VX R8s, had 235s and didnt have a problem scrubbing, only comin down on the tyre when the tyre was actually turned, due to the lowness of the front. i measured the rolling diameter of the calais 15s with 205/65/15s and they were exactly the same as the R8 rims with 235/40/18. not sure if the 19s would be larger, as the even tho the rim is an inch bigger, the lower profile of the sidewall will compensate for this. Yeah your right a 235/40R18 is very close to the factory 205/65R15, �'ve just found that a 225/40R18 sits nicer on the front when running VLs really low. The factory HSV rims aren't particually good for VL, the offset is a little high so they tend to sit in a little. I think an 8" rim with a 35-38p offset would be a bit nicer Sorry don't know about load rating, I never had an issue with 225s on mine legally and really can't see it being a safety issue I think you just need to pull your guards to ensure there isn't a lip that the tyre can snag I use these 2 calculators when working out wheel/tyre combos http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp