Hey guys, Well seeing as people have been asking quite alot lately about how to change a CAS, I decided I will do a write up for it. The whole procedure should take about 10-15 minutes to take apart and then around 5-10 minutes to put back on again Remember to put all your screws carefully to one side and in their groupings Firstly, this is what you will need: - Ratchet or screwdriver with socket attachment and an 8mm socket. - Flat head screw driver of a standard size - Philips head screw driver of the standard size My car does not run the standard intake system so you may have to remove all of that to have it looking something like this Now remove all of the leads, it is not important to mark them as the dizzy cap has numbers next to the plug hole and you can trace the leads for their numbering. Note: Number 1 is closest to the front of the car and counts to number six which is located near the firewall. Now, undo the two screws which are located diagonally from each other, with one near the heat shield and the other near the ignition lead with your philips head screwdriver, if your philips head starts to round the head of the screw, use your flat head on it instead. Note: The two screws do not come out the full way as they are attached to the dizzy cap. Now you will be looking at something like this Now you will need to undo a bolt with your 8mm socket which can be seen below: Once that is removed, you will need to undo two screws with your philips head, or if they are tight, use your flat head. These screws are located diagnoally like the dizzy cap screws. You will now need to undo the screw which is down the shaft of the copper bearing type thing. You will see a small silver disc with little lines indented in it, carefully slide it out on angle. You will now see another copper bearing type thing. Slowly pull this thing out. If it does not pull out either try twisting it out of slowly pry it out with your flat head screwdriver. Note: This can be in quite tight Now remove the 3 screw which you see are holding on the CAS as seen below: Now, before you try taking it out you will still need to undo the top of it. Unplug the coil lead thing, it has a spring clip holding it on which can be tricky to get off. I use the flathead screw driver between the clip and the coil plug and then you should be able to unplug the coil plug. Then unplug the negative push on clip. You will now see a little plate with two screws holding it in, undo these and remove the plate which has a small rubber gasket with it The CAS will now be able to be pulled out one an angle and it looks something like this: And you will be left looking at this: To install another one, do it the complete opposite and everything should work. If you have any questions, feel free to ask Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

good write up, i'l use it when i run out of spare dizzy's lol

Not bad patch. Of course, a full CAS kit comes with a replacement bearing, as seen in the bottom of the distributor housing. The whole distributor needs to come out for that. If you're pullng the dizzy out, make sure you set to motor to BTDC before you remove it. Just makes it 10 times easier to set your dizzy timing again.

I've never actually changed a whole dizzy or bought a brand new CAS kit before, only ever gotten given two CAS' for free but thankyou for your input mr timothy Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

yet again on the money patches. nice write up Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

nice write up dude, will probably come in handy one day Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Perhaps you could add, that it is very important the "small silver disc" as you described, goes back in facing the same way out. And that if a lot of red type dust is found around CAS, that the shaft bearing should be changed or new CAS may have very limited life. And i wondered why do you have to remove the leads to take the dizzy cap off ? MT

Quote: Originally Posted by mumstaxi And i wondered why do you have to remove the leads to take the dizzy cap off ? just makes it easy once its out of the way, having spark leads 4, 5, 6 going around the intake pipe and over the rocker cover makes the dizzy cap hard to get out of the way, patch has longer leads, as he isnt running a standard intake. cheers Matt

nice write up mate... also good pics too

i think my leads are just standard leads, i think it would be too tight to have the leads still on and try and take the cap off plus it only takes 10 seconds to pull them off and about 2 minutes to put them back on, so it's not too big of a hassle

Cool,cool, I run standard leads and can pull cap off easy (leads attached) as mentioned i don't have the standard intake tho MT Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ah no worries mate Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

This should go in the tech threads

it is.....

^ LOL!?!?!? you're a good man patches, you should add that you should mark exactly where the rotor button is before you take it out so you put it back in the same spot, otherwise your timings gonna be faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarked

tis partially correct justine, it can only go in one way anywho.... so thankyou but fark you spaz.... cruise tomoz...?

i didnt mean like the rotor button its self.. the whole shafty thingo that the rotor button acutally bolts on to, if you take the whole dizzy out, that shafty thingo has to go back in the exact same spot so the rotor button is in the same position as when it came out. catch my drift?

Top thread patch. Made changing mine easy as. Jacko

What's an easy way to change the bearing? Push it until the engine is at TDC or something? I read it ages ago but I've only ever done it this way.

how do u know when ur cas is f@#ked??