hows it goin? Im looking at buying Alpine Type-R SPR-17S 6.5 Inch 2-Way Splits, and i was wondeing if anyone has used them? and if there any good? These are its specs: two 6-1/2" woofers, 2 tweeters, and 2 crossovers Hybrid layered-pulp woofer with rubber surround 1" textile ring-dome tweeter External crossovers � 12 dB per octave (high-pass) and 6 dB per octave (low-pass) 7-level tweeter adjustment Power range: 8-110 watts RMS (330 watts peak power) Frequency response: 65-27,000 Hz Sensitivity: 87 dB Top-mount depth: 2-3/8" I have been quoted $250 for them and was wondering if there worth it?

as long as u got a good amp powering them they should hammer alright. what amp u running?

i got no amp yet, any suggestions to run these?

Quote: Originally Posted by Blown Vl# i got no amp yet, any suggestions to run these? Nice speakers but as above you will need a nice amp to get the most out of them. Throw as much power as you can afford at these, dont quote me but I think they are rated at 75rms. I recommend looking for something in alpine but you will need something like the MRV-F545 or one of the pdx 4 channels to really get them moving. I have experimented a little lately and I was amazed the difference a 75rms per channel amp and 125 rms per channel amp made to the sound quality in the car. tested alpine MRV-F345 and MRV-F545 and the 545 is an absolute animal for power and gave excellent results over the 345. another recommendation from me would be to sound deaden your doors as a speaker is as good as its enclosure and a steel door isnt the best home for a speaker. Dynamat is a popular choice for this but all dependeds on what your prepared to spend but will gain excellent results.

really, i thought they were 110 RMS. I was thinking of running Alpine MRP-F300 Amplifer. i was told to use dynamat and sound deadner spray MRV-F545 are old arnt they like 2006-07 ?

A good amp to run these splits would be a PDX4.100. I running the same splits in the VZ and I'm using a PDX4.100. I would highly recommend PDX amps because of there compatibility, power & quality. In the VZ I'm running 2 x SWR-1242D subs & a PDX1.1000 amp and the bass is unreal(earth shattering), I can't believe these small compact amps can punch out so much power, without draining your battery. Also I'm using a PDX4.100 for the SPR-17s and the SPR-69c and I'm really happy with these speakers and the PDX amps. Here's some info on these type of products. Trust me the PDX is the way to go!!! http://www.alpine.com.au/products/index.asp Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Blown Vl# really, i thought they were 110 RMS. I was thinking of running Alpine MRP-F300 Amplifer. i was told to use dynamat and sound deadner spray MRV-F545 are old arnt they like 2006-07 ? Your right they are rated 110rms, sorry about that. Definately recommend that dynamat but the amp your sugested would be too small if you want the most out of them. Youll probably get arguments that it will be fine and sure it will run them but more quality power is what they need. They generally rate the power output of an amplifier at 14.4v so 50wrmsx4 @14.4v so @12-13v more likely see 35rms so considerably underpowered for your nice type r's. Your right the MRV-F545 is older model but dont be scareed away because of this, if you can find one grab it and dont look back. argably one of the best alpine 4ch IMO. the MRP-F300 is there lower end model from alpine as they have the pdx series as their higher end amps. Alpine V12 was focused at the higher end when they were new. Good luck with it all and be sure to show some install pics on here, very interested to see how you go.

They generally rate the power output of an amplifier at 14.4v so 50wrmsx4 @14.4v so @12-13v more likely see 35rms so considerably underpowered for your nice type r's. What do u mean by that?that little amp i suggested is too weak and wont pump the speakers as hard as they could and only outputs 12v? ill have a look on net at MRV-F545 MRP-F300:# 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) # 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) MRV-F545:# 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms # 500 watts RMS x 1 (When channels 3/4 are briged) + 125 watts RMS x 1 (When channels 1/2 are bridged)

Quote: Originally Posted by Blown Vl# They generally rate the power output of an amplifier at 14.4v so 50wrmsx4 @14.4v so @12-13v more likely see 35rms so considerably underpowered for your nice type r's. What do u mean by that?that little amp i suggested is too weak and wont pump the speakers as hard as they could and only outputs 12v? ill have a look on net at MRV-F545 yeh probably not that clearly explained. An amp rated at 50wrms is generally rated at 14.4v so that same amplifier given 12-13v of power would ouput approx 35wrms. I say this as I havent seen to many car electrial systems run at 14.4v. From my experiences the larger amps made a significant change in the speakers. Also consider advice above on PDX series. PDX 4channel would be a very good option for you also but cost a fair bit more than the MRV-F545 option I gave you earlier. I have the pdx1.1000 for type X sub and 4.150 for my MB quarts 3 way components and only pioneer 6x9 for the rear fill. totally up to you and your budget. nice system above by the way. good to see some time spent on quality installs Quote: Originally Posted by Blown Vl# They generally rate the power output of an amplifier at 14.4v so 50wrmsx4 @14.4v so @12-13v more likely see 35rms so considerably underpowered for your nice type r's. What do u mean by that?that little amp i suggested is too weak and wont pump the speakers as hard as they could and only outputs 12v? ill have a look on net at MRV-F545 MRP-F300:# 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) # 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) MRV-F545:# 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms # 500 watts RMS x 1 (When channels 3/4 are briged) + 125 watts RMS x 1 (When channels 1/2 are bridged) MRV-545 is rated at 125rmsx4 or 125rmsx2 + 500rmsx1 as 3 channel. all at 14.4v check the owners manual attachment. http://www.mtechaudio.co.th/product/...RV-F345_om.pdf (http://www.mtechaudio.co.th/product/productsub/amplifiers/2_v12_amplifiers/4/MRV-F345_om.pdf)

ah ok thanks mate. What would you pick out of Kenwood KAC-8103D or Alpine MRV-F545. i can get a Kenwood KAC-8103D off a mate for cheap.

Quote: Originally Posted by Blown Vl# ah ok thanks mate. What would you pick out of Kenwood KAC-8103D or Alpine MRV-F545. i can get a Kenwood KAC-8103D off a mate for cheap. I like alpine gear as always been excellent quality and can only comment on this amp as I have experience with it although Kenwood have made good stuff over the years also. If its your mate he should let you install it in your car to try it out first and you can make your decision. However the Kenwood amplifier you listed is a monoblock and really should only be set up to run a sub woofer.

lol woops is a mono block, i thought it was a 4 channel amp lol he has another one what is KICKER 08ZX650.4 4CHANNEL but i think his keeping that

It is also I good idea to match amps and speakers. Amps send signals to speakers (ie. the same frequency). When I was 18 I brought a kicker amp and some pioneer subs(which looked cool) not knowing they had to be matched. Anyway about 3 months later the subs started making a popping sound so I backed off the gain, then about 1 month later the amp wouldn't stop going into protection mode.(because of the extra load from the pioneer subs). So it's a good idea to match subs with amps because of the different frequency readings and ohm ratings. Just a suggestion.

ah ok thanks mate,ill look around at some alpine amps. the amp mr squiggle suggested seems pretty strong and cheap, but i was lookin at the PDX amps but not really in my price range atm. i was told that im better off running 2 seperate amps for my 6/9 and the 6inch splits because i dont want to be running as much bass thru the 6inches then the 6/9 because they dont pump as hard and would blow easy with the same amp. Cause im probably going to be running Alpine Type-R SPR-17S 6.5 Inch splits what are 110 RMS/330watts each with clarion SRR6946 6X9's what are 350watts/70RMS each, but ill probably get rid of 6X9 once i get a sub thn put splits in either back doors orparcel shelf.

Quote: Originally Posted by Blown Vl# ah ok thanks mate,ill look around at some alpine amps. the amp mr squiggle suggested seems pretty strong and cheap, but i was lookin at the PDX amps but not really in my price range atm. i was told that im better off running 2 seperate amps for my 6/9 and the 6inch splits because i dont want to be running as much bass thru the 6inches then the 6/9 because they dont pump as hard and would blow easy with the same amp. Cause im probably going to be running Alpine Type-R SPR-17S 6.5 Inch splits what are 110 RMS/330watts each with clarion SRR6946 6X9's what are 350watts/70RMS each, but ill probably get rid of 6X9 once i get a sub thn put splits in either back doors orparcel shelf. You need a 4 ch to run your fronts and 6x9 rears. you simply set the gain levels on the amplifier to run less power to the rear. if you have the 6x9 already probably not much use changing them. they only act as rear fill for passangers. in a sq system you want the music to sound as though it is all coming from your front stage. 6x9 are for your back seat passangers.

ah kk , so i should just keep the clarion 6X9s i have now in the parcel shelf and even when i get a sub? and put splits in the front? ive always wanted to know if i could run splits in front doors with 6" in back doors wit 6x9 in parcel shelf with 1 or 2 amps and a mono block and twin subs, dose that sound possible?

personaly i wouldnt go the r-types, i have them front and rear on my vt and im realy dissapointed with them

what are your type-r's running off? head unit and amp wise?

Quote: Originally Posted by Blown Vl# ive always wanted to know if i could run splits in front doors with 6" in back doors wit 6x9 in parcel shelf with 1 or 2 amps and a mono block and twin subs, dose that sound possible? It's a really silly idea & won't achieve anything, but not hard to wire up.

I've had a few systems like kenwood, kicker, pioneer and audioline. I found that the type-r speakers rock. All of my friends reckon it's the best system they've heard. The only way to optimized you stereo is to use a amp, a amp that is suited for your speakers. Like using the same brand, not mix matching speakers with amps. Quote: Originally Posted by VLWAGONIT personaly i wouldnt go the r-types, i have them front and rear on my vt and im realy dissapointed with them Are you running a amp?