hey, whats a rough price to get a harrop 355 rebuilt ???
it needs a set of rings, bearings an pistons an bored
i have set of pistons to suit, just chasin prices as i been quoted too much i think ................. thanks again
Quote:
Originally Posted by pnishu
you dont need to bore anything just get a 355 crank but since you have the pistons already keep on keeping on with the way your going
Care to tell me how you come to that conclusion that the block doesn't need to be re-bored when there is no specifics about the current state of his block???
Quote:
Originally Posted by pnishu
you dont need to bore anything just get a 355 crank but since you have the pistons already keep on keeping on with the way your going
It seems you have misread the original post, from what I can understand its a 5ltr harrop stroked engine already in need of a freshen up.
But I do agree, is there anything wrong with the bores or will a hone clean them up? What are the bores at now? Std or oversize already? I built a COME 355 stroker and took it to 60 thou, not much left to go now unless I sleeve it so if a hone will do my advise is go that way.
Anyway, good luck and why not give it a crack yourself, pretty easy if you are just doing a set of slugs and a bearing roll.
Quote:
Originally Posted by silver vh
Care to tell me how you come to that conclusion that the block doesn't need to be re-bored when there is no specifics about the current state of his block???
if you bore it again the cylinder walls will be to thin and by wat he has said its already a 355 i misread i thought he was building a 355 from scratch not rebuilding a 355
but my first point was if you bore it again and its been bored to 355 already its pretty risky thats why i said no need to bore just get a stroker crank
Quote:
Originally Posted by VH_SLE
It seems you have misread the original post, from what I can understand its a 5ltr harrop stroked engine already in need of a freshen up.
But I do agree, is there anything wrong with the bores or will a hone clean them up? What are the bores at now? Std or oversize already? I built a COME 355 stroker and took it to 60 thou, not much left to go now unless I sleeve it so if a hone will do my advise is go that way.
Anyway, good luck and why not give it a crack yourself, pretty easy if you are just doing a set of slugs and a bearing roll.
yer exactly Wat i meant and once again yer i didn't read it properly
Quote:
Originally Posted by pnishu
if you bore it again the cylinder walls will be to thin and by wat he has said its already a 355 i misread i thought he was building a 355 from scratch not rebuilding a 355
but my first point was if you bore it again and its been bored to 355 already its pretty risky thats why i said no need to bore just get a stroker crank
yer exactly Wat i meant and once again yer i didn't read it properly
Even if he was building a 355 from scratch, you wouldn't know if it would need a rebore unless you personally looked at the bore walls. That's why I was surprised when you said it wouldn't need a bore.
You can bore safely upto 60thou oversize with the 304/308 blocks.
Now in the case of "355" cubic inches this indicates a 4.030 piston size. A standard bore with 3.48 piston stroke is 349 cubic inches, 20thou over is 353 cubic inches, 40thou is 357 cubic inches and finally 60thou over would be 360 cubic inches.
I'd like to know why boring it beyond 355 cubic inches would make the cylinder walls to thin and why it is risky.
Thanks.
355 denotes the stroke of the crank, it has nothing to do with bore size.
I've safely bored a 308 out to 65 thou but after that it's time to either bin the block or run sleeve's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VH_SLE
355 denotes the stroke of the crank, it has nothing to do with bore size.
lol...
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
[quote=VH_SLE]355 denotes the stroke of the crank, it has nothing to do with bore size.
QUOTE]
355ci..
cubic inchs..
or are the rods 355inchs long?
lol
VH_SLE Someone's already been through it for you.. IN THIS THREAD, but clearly your weren't listening.
355 = 355 cubic inches, that is the capacity of the engine, you come across 355 cubes when you use a 3.48" stroke crank with a 4.030 bore size, and you come across a 4.030 bore size when you re bore a stock holden v8 .030"
The factory 215 engine were actually 350cubes with a 4.000" bore, hence why they were a 5.7 litre not a 5.8 which is what you get when you have 355cubes (do the calculations yourself, it may help)
Quote:
Originally Posted by aZ`
VH_SLE Someone's already been through it for you.. IN THIS THREAD, but clearly your weren't listening.
355 = 355 cubic inches, that is the capacity of the engine, you come across 355 cubes when you use a 3.48" stroke crank with a 4.030 bore size, and you come across a 4.030 bore size when you re bore a stock holden v8 .030"
The factory 215 engine were actually 350cubes with a 4.000" bore, hence why they were a 5.7 litre not a 5.8 which is what you get when you have 355cubes (do the calculations yourself, it may help)
Obviously I am incorrect, to which I appologise,
Can't all be legends of the motoring world like yourself I suppose???
Quote:
Originally Posted by VH_SLE
Obviously I am incorrect, to which I appologise,
Can't all be legends of the motoring world like yourself I suppose???
You mean living legend don't you???
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 180OZT
hey, whats a rough price to get a harrop 355 rebuilt ???
lol with all those answers, I don't think anyone's actually given you a rough price mate! Did you call Pavtek?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatecrasher
lol with all those answers, I don't think anyone's actually given you a rough price mate! Did you call Pavtek?
To be realistic you are looking at the 6-8 thousand dollar mark for a basic 355and anything in excess of that the price goes up. That is for a complete motor. Not incuding the intake that you wish to use.
Give Flowcraft a call champ (Eugene) they know there stuff when it comes to the Australian V8 and will be more than happy to sit down with you and work out what you need.
Nobody will just do "rings and bearings" unless you find a backyard monkey, if the bores are good, you may get away with a hone, but just about everyone will want to grind the crank, close and hone the rods, replace rodbolts, may as well line hone it and fit studs, then your up for cam/lifters, heads may as well be checked and so forth.
Id budget 5/7k at least.
