guys i have finished the converion, everything is in exept the turbo injectors, n/a injectors are still in. when i start it,, it runs rough untill i block half the afm with my hand?? any1 know why this is? is the afm fu*d? its like its getting to much air, but how can that be?? cheers

i'd check timing and for leaks in piping.

its running reeeeal rich, as above check for air leaks and check timing. also check ecu plug connections are clean, and test your oxygen sensor (that li'll ****er in your exhaust)

its running a cross over pipe so cant be cooler leaks. oxygen sensor should be ok, there was a oxy sensor in the n/a exaust i took off, i can just try that 1 and see if it helps yeh? and timing? can the ecu put the timing outa wack by itself can it? if i give it a little rev from idle i can hear some noise comming from inside the timing belt cover or around that area.. only last's for few a sec's, sounds like its hitting the cover or that sort of sound also do u guys think there is any point in putting this thing on the dyno with a standed ecu?? they cant do much really exept charge me $250bux ffs. the ecu does have a chip in it but that still doesnt make it tuneable, just a little more playfull thanks for the help

How are you blocking the AFM with your hand? Have you tried putting all the intake piping back on and trying it again?

good work was gonna get this car thow some pics up so r u running n/a injectors and ecu... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

more info about the setup, you have told us nothing

just putting my hand over half of it, the intake is all setup as a standed vlt would be, straight into the airbox. runs perfect if i block half the afm. in the car atm-- t3/t4 standed turbo n/a injectors are in atm but will be changed in cupple days to vlt jeccs auto ecu with chip 3' down pipe standed cross over pipe standed intake setup bosch 910 changed plugs and leads changed oil and filter still to do is, change injectors, h/p fuel reg, bigger radiator, and a cooler lata on.

Things to check for are vacuum leaks, anything engine side of the maf. Manifold, piping etc etc. Can you hear a sucking sound? This jeccs ecu thing, what size injectors is it designed to run? its very important. For arguments sake, if the n/a injectors is 100cc in size and the VLT is 200cc in size, and it is designed to run VLT, well your only deliver half the fuel at those injector cycles. What is your fuel pressure? is it up the ass and only giving you 10 psi when its supposed to be 40psi. Hence when you restric airflow the air fuel ratio gets closer to being happy? BLocked fuel filter, etc etc Have you checked your timing? is it sitting at a base of 15degrees? Also swap out your afm with a known working one and if it fixes it well thats your problem

duke its just a standed vlt ecu, arnt all standed vlt ecu set for standed vlt injectors, as no1 has this problem when running a vlt ecu and n/a injectors?? cant hear or c any vacc leaks. unsure of fuel pressure as i dont have fuel reg yet. and lll check the timing out. the car runs like **** if i unplug the afm then runs good when plugd in, then goes to **** again after few sec's while its pluggd in

Ahhh well, it could be the simple fact that the ECU thinks the injectors are 40% bigger than they actually are and not enough fuel is going in. n/a ECU - n/a injectors T ECU - VLT injectors n/a ecu - will run VLT injectors but it will be rich, though safe and not making max power. Wait till you get your VLT injectors and see how you go

so can i try run it with the n.a ecu and the n/a injectors and c how it runs?? i have changed the oxy sensor and cleaned out the afm with afm cleaner. doesnt change a thing. idles rougher with the other n/a oxy sensor

What duke said......stock ecu's must be matched to the stock injector sizes. Yep, give the n/a ecu a go

np ill try the n/a ecu now. if it does fix the problem can the car be driven safely to mech to be fixed up and tuned wit the vlt ecu? or is it unsafe to drive it like that. cheers

safe as houses, as long as you know it not going to boost past 6 odd psi, the fuel pressure is all good etc etc. So take it easy is what I am saying.

yeh thanks guys it was the *** ecu, gonna need the injectors in b4 that goes in. so really the way it is now i just have to listen to make sure its not pinging yeh?

you cant always hear pinging mate.... Also be careful not running a cooler and running any more than 4-5psi, you may not have a motor for very long.

this is while the car has n/a injectors, and n/a ecu?? or we talking even when the injectors and ecu are in?

Your gonna be blowing extremely hot air into a motor thats already gonna be 1.8:1 CR higher... Its a pretty good recipe for an earth shattering kaboom... I would be expecting to see a thread in the not too distant future "blown engine now what". I would be getting yourself a cooler as soon as possible. Ive been running a hi comp turbo for a year now.... And I can tell you the hot side of the cooler gets farkin hot and im only running 7 psi.

Munro is right you won't hear all pinging but if its bad you will, and if its going to ping it will be as it starts to transition onto boost, and approaching max torque. On old engines, with fatigued metalurgy it may take one bout of detonation to drop a ring land in No5 piston or melt a crown http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking http://www.hrd-performance.com/13.html The second one is particularly good. I don't want to say all n/a converts need intercoolers, but it gives you a safety margin that most people need. Unless you can understand the limits of what you are doing its going to end in hurt. Its a fine line without a cooler on a n/a convert. 98 Octane fuel will be a must. Try 10 to 12 degrees of timing at most. Be a little gentle on it till you get a cooler. Boost no higher than stock. Period.