well finally got the wiring done on my car and it turns over last night was able to get it to run/splutter for few seconds but cant get it running now i need more ideas what too look at so far set the dissy timing to TDC and point 1. cant check with light till it idles new leads on it and plugs in, new dissy cap, new rotary arm has spark at lead #1 and its blue arc has fuel in the system (botom fuel rail pipe is rock hard and presursing) injectors i cant tell if there working as i cant hear them with starter running check all the usal plugs are in. the cas was work fine when i last had it running check comp and got the standerd stuff plus starter circuit system and dentinaton sensor (didnt wire one up) its a high comp, turbo, gktech with afm in it. first start in about year half and first with turbo system on anyideas i wanna get it idling tonight cheers sean

You haven't swapped wiring looms since it was going last? There are 2 different wiring looms. I'm pretty sure you have to bridge a wire at the blue plug under the dash to get it to run. I think it's a pink wire from memory. Oh and use a big flat head screw driver with you ear on the end of it to check if the injectors are working. You haven't done the old'e fuel flow to the reg trick have you?

its a na loom the comp is turbo manual it wasnt ever run with the turbo before as ive fitted it while building the car intresting about the wire under the dash, ill see what info i can digg up on that just checked the injectors with a pipe and funnel and they are ticking waht fuel flow to reg trick is that?

the return line goes to the reg

well found the thread but he wasnt getting any fuel pump priming where mine do and cranks http://calaisturbo.com.au/showthread...d=1#post950201 (http://calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?p=950201&posted=1#post950201) can you do me a fav and check which one goes to where is it the back metal fuel pipe taht goes into the regulator or the front one? cheers

Pipe closest to the front goes to the reg

yerp ive got it the right way cranking, just wont fire fuel correct, injectors are working i believe has spark on lead 1 when earthed, might take a plug out in a sec just tryed earthing out lead one again and it wasnt sparking well, got one orange spark hmmmm might have to try coil Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

You can still check the timing without it idling to see if it actually firing on 15deg before TDC I believe

tryed diff afm and no luck, played with the timing more and got it to the point it will run when cranking over only problem is it will idle for 3 seconds max the spluters and dies Video of it running and dying (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIFntAzQ0iM) i think its a fuel issue, as it will pressurise and use the fuel in the rail but the pump wont buzz when you start it then when you turn the ignition off then back on it has to pressurise again any ideas what it could be? pump? which one or both might double check the relay and try another one possibly the comp has a fault in it?

I crank angle sensor can die instantly without showing any signs of failure before it does give up, get a dizzy off a mate, slam that one in and if it starts then put your dizzy back in with a brand new CAS It happened to me, I went over EVERYTHING on my car, ****ed with the timing like 23172389721 times and then Jetvl086 came over and pin pointed it being the CAS... Just put another dizzy in man, takes sweet eff all time to change over. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Your timing is set correctly: crank pulley sitting on the fourth notch from the left, with the cam notch pointing directly up, whilst the rotor arm in the dizzy points at spark lead number one? Has it back fired when you've tried to start it? That would be a sign of timing being incorrect.

trying to get another dissy tonight see if that works the timing belt wasnt changed when i had it appart as it was only done 15,000km ago nah no backfires at all, just splutters and stalls changed the fuel pump relay and no dif looks at the fuel pump plugs and they were all connected and clean

feel like burning it yet?

nah ill give it away before i do that well little more reading and some people have previously said big vacum leak checked all my intake pipes and all the vacum lines. all are tight and good would a big leak cause it to splutter and stall? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i had the same problem as your having when i did an engine swap. but i just swapped the loom for the one that came out of the car and it started first go. have you tried disconnecting the afm? you might have done something there when you made the wires longer?

un plugged the afm and no diffrence

From the video, it sounds like you've got no fuel pressure. Make absolutely sure you have the hoses on correct. Pull the feed hose off the rail (not the one connected to the reg) and run it into a container. Get someone to turn the ign on while you check for fuel. Another check you can do is mark where the dizzy and rotor are, then remove the whole unit from the head. Leaving the cas plug connected, rotate the dizzy gear by hand. When you turn it, the fuel pumps should start up, when you stop turning the pumps will stop running. You can use this method to check the injectors and spark aswell.

check the fuel, i am getting fuel to the front. changed the external pump as i might of had low pressure but no dif regulator is working as flow comes out the fuel return on the rail too pulled the first plug out and its dry, not even smelling of petrol or any carbon on it so injectors are not opening unpluged the first injector lead and plugged a na injector in and it aint ticking when cranking no wiring on the injector loom was touched or cut only put condue piping on to neat it suppose i need to look at trying a difrent comuter now tryed my na auto one but no luck at even possible running prob because the injector cycle is diffrent apparently

should run with an na ecu,could be a bad earth forth einjectors or they are just poked.

just been reading through some threads and came across some post that MonstaS4 had posted these are referring too the relay which was near the battery, the metal casing relay i think we cut out, cant find it in the dash either (where most where moved too) tested the injector and i have 12v to both the cables when the car has power running through the car but then i get lost if this relay was to be removed would the injectors work? Quote: Originally Posted by MonstaS4 Forget the LED. Do you have 12v on one of the injector wires? (referencing one meter lead to ground). You'll have 12v on both wires with the engine off. The 12v feed to the injectors is via the reverse polarity relay. With the relay OFF, you should have 12v to the injectors. If the relay is off but no 12v, then the contacts inside the relay are dirty and you should replace the relay. BEWARE it is a changeover relay (normally closed contact aswell as normally open). If the relay is on, then the diode hidden in the loom near the relay has gone short circuit. Quote: Originally Posted by MonstaS4 There should be 2 red/black wires, an orange and a black/white. The red/blacks are battery 12v+ via a fusible link. One connects to the coil of the relay, the other to the "common" side of the relay contacts. Sounds like you have 12v on each of these? The black/white is an earth for the relay coil, BUT.....it is earthed via a diode so that the relay will never come on unless the battery is connected up wrong (hence the name reverse polarity relay). Put the black meter lead on the black/white wire at the relay and the red meter lead on either of the red/black wires. The meter should read 0v. If it reads 12v then the diode is short circuit. Remove the tape from the loom and it will be hidden in there. Cut one of the wires to the diode and i'll bet the car will start. If the meter read 0v, then check the orange wire for 12v (with the black meter lead on batt -ve). If you have 12v here but not at the injectors, you have a break in the loom somewhere between them. If you don't have 12v, then the relay is shagged. Replace it with a CHANGEOVER relay....NOT a normal relay. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.