Hey people, Jumped in the Calais this morning and hey presto it doesnt start. Drove it on Sunday and it was fine. Fuel pump primes, and it turns over but it doesnt fire at all, not a sputter, nothing, just keeps turning over. I didnt have time to have a decent check of it was already late for work, and got home late tonight as well. I did check No.1 spark plug and it looked fine. It did have an electrical prob before I bought it, but the guy took it to an auto sparky and had it fixed (a loose solder on the ecu or something like that from memory). so I'll try the ecu from the Berlina and see if that works. Otherwise the only other thing I'm guessing it could be is the Crank Angle Sensor inside the dizzy. Now I don't know anything about these but did a little research on CT and read that its easier to get a complete (working) dizzy/CAS unit and replace the whole lot, rather than just trying to replace the CAS. So just wana see if any of you NZ boys and girls have a spare 3L dizzy/CAS unit (that works!) lying around? pref someone from Auckland but anything goes. And/or, if you have any ideas of what the problem is, please let me know. Cheers fellas, Sam

I sold my spare one but yeah start with the CAS or the whole dizzy they tend to course strange things to happen when they play up

Dont change the whole dizzy, its a pain in the arse to time it all up properly, then the shaft o-ring usually leaks because you have disturbed it, all up its about 13 screws to take the sensor out and takes 10 min tops. just changing the sensor disturbs nothing, and takes a fraction of the time. First use a timing light to check the presence of a spark, (you can earth out a lead, but you will get 30,000 volts through you if you are careless) If there is spark, its an injection issue, if no spark, peel back the boot covering the CAS plug, and check for 12V at the orange-black wire, and an earth at the black wire. Both should be present with the key on. If that checks out ok, replace the sensor. Unclip Cyl 1,2,3 leads from above the timing cover, remove the cap, but leave the leads plugged in, there will be enough give to rest the cap on the rocker cover. Remove the 8mm bolt holding the rotor arm to the shaft, remove rotor arm. Remove the 2 screws securing the cover plate. Unplug the sensor, being sure to use a pick or a small screwdriver to disengage the clip, remove the distributor earth lead. Remove the 2 screws securing the sealing plate and earth terminal to the distributor body With extreme care use a large tight fitting FLATBLADE screwdriver to undo the screw down the centre of the shaft, remove the shaft. With the shaft removed you will be able to remove the chopper wheel, before moving it note its position (it can only go one way but it is possible to fit it back to front) mark the outside face (the face you see) with a vivid, but not near the slots. Then simply lift the chopper wheel out. Last step is to remove the screws from the sensor itself, and remove it by pulling the bottom out first, sliding the terminal through the hole in the top. Re-assembly is the above procedure in reverse, making sure the vivid mark on the chopper wheel faces you, and that there is no dust or dirt in the slots.

I got a couple out in the garage, will have to test them thou. I live out snells beach if you wanna pick up, cost you a box. Or a left hand tail light