Hey guys, Well a couple of people have been hassling me to put a thread up about the boot install I did a fair while back. Well here I go: Materials Used: 12mm MDF Timber Offcuts Liquid Nails Wood Screws Spray-On Adhesive Small Craft Nails Tools Used: Tape Measure Marker or Pencil Hammer Circular Saw Jig-Saw My boot used to look like this. Very messy and nothing special. Not a good site to look at when I opened it up So I decided to do a boot install of some sort. I still wanted the 2 subs in there and i had seen people with a false floor made and their amps mounted flush with the floor so I aimed for something along those lines. I also wanted some sort of compartments to store my stuff into as well. I started out with making a very very rough template of the boot floor with just some plastic type stuff i had lying around After I got the approximate shape I then traced it onto my MDF timber. When I went to trial fit the piece I had cut, I realised it was too big, so I had to cut it into 2 pieces so it would fit in. If you get a pretty close measurement of the floor with the timber, you will not have to glue or screw into the boot floor as it should hold it self in place. I was now left with something looking like this Then to make my false floor I had to make some sort of spacers to raise the floor. I found some timber lying around which was the right height so that my amp would sit about 5mm below the finished floor level. As you can see in the photo, I had my amp in place so I knew where to put the wood spacers so they would not get into my way later on when mounting the amp itself After I had my spacers done and liquid nailed and screwed into the floor, I then had to go about making the false floor. So once again I measure the boot. I didn't have to be exactly precise because my side compartments would hide if one side was longer than the other. It was now looking something like this I had also cut out the hole for my amp, I centred it by getting an approximate centre from the boot latch and the boot light. Now that everything was starting to come together, I started work on the sub box itself. I wanted the box to sit partially under the parcel so i would still retain some boot space. I measured between the two shock towers to find the width of the box. I then got the length of the box from the hump in the boot floor to just about 25mm onto the false floor. The height would then have to be from the false floor level to where the boot light was which happened to be a very close fit for a 12 inch sub. This is during the construction of the box. When making the box, remember to take into account the width of the MDF you are using, i.e if your measurement is 2000mm and your MDF is 10mm you will need to make your longest piece 1980mm as the other two side will then make up 2000mm, I hope that makes sense Now the boot was starting to look a tiny bit better with the box nearly complete I now had to make the face of the sub box. I intentionally did not make it the same size as the box because I wanted it to hide the shock towers and basically everything behind it too. So once again I got an approx measurement and test fitted and it looked like this As you can see i got the centre of it by using the line from the false floor and the boot light, I also marked out where it sat on the box so I knew how much room I had to cut for my subs and where to put them I then cut the hole out of the box face for the two subs and now I was getting a little excited as it was looking nice I then started work on the side compartments. I originally wanted them to to reached the top of the boot but I realised this would be too difficult for my skill level so I made them at a reasonable height where it could be made with pretty simple straight cuts Here is the start of one side, you can now understand when I mentioned before that the floor length didn't have to be perfect as the compartments would hide the errors As you can see in this picture, I made them so they would fit snugly between the face of the sub box and the rear of the boot. I had also started on the compartment lids too To achieve the right shape for the rear of the boot, I got the timber from where the end of the boot light metal ends, i then traced along the edge of it then cut it out I then had both sides constructed with both the tops for them. As you can see in the picture, I had to cut a small 'V' out of the lids so it would make it past the metal bracing Now that it was all how I wanted it i then had to go about carpeting it.I still had not glued or screwed any of it together apart from the false floor and the sub box as i knew it would make it alot easier now My dad's mate is a trimmer so gave me some offcuts in bluey/purple To carpet it , i took out each piece and sprayed spray on adhesive to the wood and the carpet it self. I then placed the carpet onto the piece of wood. The glue would now hold it into position as I nailed the carpet tight.I nailed the nails in halfway then bent them over to act like a staple You could alternatively use staples instead of using nails. I then repeated this process for all the items and then it was starting to look something like this But it looked not right with too mismatching subs so I sent my mum with some money down to Strathfield to buy me two new subs Now it was looking nice and completed When my battery was moved to the boot it was placed in the drivers side compartment while the other stores jumper leads, tyre puncture foam and other random things Also the only things still screwed and glued are the spacers,false floor and sub box and face. This makes it easy to access my compartments and eliminates the look of ugly screw heads. If everything was measure pretty accurately it should hold itself together. I've had mine for a couple of months now and hasnt budged at all I hope this article helped some of you guys out there Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

yes... anywho dont wreck my thread i spent ages writing up Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i was being serious lol, gives me heads up about doing my boot but you shut me down lol Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Good writeup mate, after seeing this I'm going to do my own but without the stereo gear, my fuel system is up on the back shelf so I'll just box mine all in square and make a perspex window so you can see the surge tank and pumps Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

very helpful writeup mate good job. i plan to use this in the future!!

Nice work patch-man, now just do a boot install for something good.....like Brad suggested - fuel system!

lol nice zoo magazine and also very nice install looks schmick Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

looking good.... i think mine will get started soon

**** thats awesome, mad write up im giving this a go for sure, but different lol

thanks for the comments guys... Matty, yeh i gave her the money and she went to go get them cause i had to work to pay for the bloody car im also more than willing to answer questions... as obsessv pm'ed me asking how the amps are secure the answer: i screwed it down onto the first wood i used as the base Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i got a quick question, howd u go about stopping the boot rattle with 2 subs, myne rattles enough as it is also how fr back does ur sub box go, does it sit up on the hump and wat did u do for a lid, like the top part and bottom part? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

hey man i havent bothered to stop the rattle in this car yet and yes it does rattle as does nearly everything else. but in my old vl to minimise it i got silicone and siliconed along the spines of the boot like which helped quite a bit and pulled the 'U' latch for the boot a little further down. if u do a quick search theres quite a few threads about it with some easy fixes to very in depth fixes if u look at pictures 6 and 7 u can see the width of the both and the tops and bottom of it... but for a rough idea it fits the subs with about maybe 100mm of room behind the magnet

Post up some dimension shots, especially for the floor.

A lot of people use sound deadener to add weight to the boot panels, and stop the rattle. SIroller loves the shit.

sik as m8....

Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl A lot of people use sound deadener to add weight to the boot panels, and stop the rattle. SIroller loves the shit. yeah, im going for a more technical and expensive solution in my car this stuff doesnt add weight like dynamat which is just bitumen and tin foil this stuff actually gets RID of sound, not changed the resonant frequency by weight/mass you cannot get rid of energy, just change it, i.e lighing a fire, makes light, and heat i will be converting sound to heat. we will see how it goes on my car, and i will be selling it... not cheap (about 50 bux a liter) BUT bloody good stuff

Very nice, I want something simmilar for my boot install when the time comes lol

Whats the stuff called? Where do you get it from? easy to apply?

if u talking to me, its got no name i get it from my mate apply with a brush, and u can paint over it... best not to, but if you must when my car gets started ill be able to sell some ill let you all konw when the time is there my mate is an industrical chemist, he designed it for his BMW as other stuff was either too expensive or useless (i.e dynamat)

let me know sounds awsome. Any idea on a ruff price range?