Current Setup: - Nizpro style intercooler setup where the Radiator has been moved back onto new welded on supports off the back of the Radiator Support Panel and the intercooler added where the Radiator normally sits. - Brackets made to hold top of radiator straight up. - Radiator inlet and outlet hoses shortened to suit - Clutch Fan and Shroud Removed. - 16" Thermo Fan added onto front of Air Con setup to Blow Through air con/intercooler/radiator. - 10" Thermo Fan added onto back of radiator in the top drivers side setup to suck air through the radiator. Pic is of the setup a few years back. The Clutch Hub has since been removed and the 10" thermo added on the back of the radiator. Problem: - Car stays cool under normal driving conditions, even in traffic on hot days. - Gets hot after a bit of spirited driving. Contant Load or Racing will bring the temp up too much. - 16" Thermo on the front is pulling way too many Amps (headlights dim when thermo comes on) Solution for overheating: - Obtained new 16" Thermo (2750 cfm @ 11 Amps). Pretty thin (2 inches across the blades up to 4 inches over the motor area) - Would like to put this on the back of the radiator to cover the most amount of area to suck the air through the radiator. Problem with getting the 16" on the back of the Radiator is the amount of room I have. This is why I originally only put a 10" on the back in the corner. Currently I have a max of 50mm between the powersteering belt pulley on the harmonic ballancer to the radiator. Ideally to fit the thermo I would need about 70mm as I can place the motor portion of the thermo away from this belt. The options I see are: 1) Try to move the intercooler and radiator forward if possible - may mean redrilling or elongating the current mounting holes for the radiator and intercooler forward and try to get them as close as possible to the front of the car and hope this gives me enough room 2) As the Aircon is not going to be used any more - remove the Aircon belt and move the Power Steering Belt Back to where the Aircon belt normally runs somehow. This could be done by ..a) Have the Power Steering Pulley moved back on the pump by 17mm ..b) Move the whole pump back by drilling new holes in the bracket that holds the pump to the block 17mm forward of thier original position. 3) Go for a smaller/thinner thermo and keep the 16" on the front of everything - but this is almost given to keep the same problem really. Has anyone moved the power steering pump back in line with the Air Con pulley at all? I will get some photo's tonight to show what i mean. Need Ideas... opinions... previous experience?????? photo's of others setups with a NizPro style cooler where the Radiator sits????

how keen are you on keeping the nizpro cooler kit, why not put the radiator into the original position and have something like a gktech cooler kit or go with either of the ebay style kits as they both have plenty of room between radiator and motor

Aftermarket ECU setup? Sort of sounds like combustion temps could be a little hot. You maybe able to reduce running temps by changing your timing and fueling tables?

Quote: Originally Posted by [FLY-BYE] how keen are you on keeping the nizpro cooler kit, why not put the radiator into the original position and have something like a gktech cooler kit or go with either of the ebay style kits as they both have plenty of room between radiator and motor Very keen. I run a full Group A kit including the front bar. I prefer not to butcher this up. I like the way the intercooler is hidden from the front on view. I prefer not to have to fork out for a new intercooler setup when this does quite well in its duties. Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT Aftermarket ECU setup? Sort of sounds like combustion temps could be a little hot. You maybe able to reduce running temps by changing your timing and fueling tables? Standard ECU. Lets focus on me wanting to get the room required between the Radiator and these belts.

If it was me this is what i'd do - Ditch the kit, put the radiator where its supposed to be, mount the cooler between the bar and the radiator, put the 16" thermo behind the radiator, problem solvered. And if you like the hidden cooler look just go for a 260 or whatever so it doesn't hang below the bumper. If your so keen on the group a bar butcher the ****in thing and paint the cooler black. Your intake pipe is kissing the radiator for about 500mm, those setups are plain rubbish

Quote: Originally Posted by RB2GO If it was me this is what i'd do - Ditch the kit, put the radiator where its supposed to be, mount the cooler between the bar and the radiator, put the 16" thermo behind the radiator, problem solvered. And if you like the hidden cooler look just go for a 260 or whatever so it doesn't hang below the bumper. If your so keen on the group a bar butcher the ****in thing and paint the cooler black. Your intake pipe is kissing the radiator for about 500mm, those setups are plain rubbish Thanks The intercooler setup is NOT changing to a front mount. Any other suggestions? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by InsaneVL Very keen. I run a full Group A kit including the front bar. I prefer not to butcher this up. I like the way the intercooler is hidden from the front on view. I prefer not to have to fork out for a new intercooler setup when this does quite well in its duties. IT obviously doesn't do what it is supposed to do if your car is getting hot? Standard ECU. Lets focus on me wanting to get the room required between the Radiator and these belts. Factory ECU, how much advance are you running on your dizzy? Otherwise your only option really other than mucking around with where engine ancillaries are is to hack your kit and do a proper front mount and thermo fan install. I havn't got a motor staring me in the face but what about, if your not using your air con remove all the associated heat exchanger etc etc that may give you some more squeeze space and move your powersteering pump to a/c old position and run new lines + reservoir for it somewhere neat and out of the way.

The Intercooler's primary function is to cool the hot air from the turbo before going into the intake. This intercooler does this job fine. The car does not overheat all the time. It stays perfectly fine when driving and sitting in traffic on a hot day. It DOES get hotter when being punted around Queensland Raceway for 20 mins, or while doing a 2+ min burnout. If I can get a larger thermo to fit between the radiator and belts, this should be a much cheaper option (particularly since I already have the thermo) than to go cutting the car and bar up and buying a new intercooler which I don't want, nor need.

Some investigation down Duke57TT's path of suggestion could be worth it, as you say it doesn't get hot in traffic at all yet does when you get up it, thats a big clue right there a lot of cars would be the opposite. If you go further into the relocation of the power steering pump keep in mind that you need to keep the ratio approx the same (pump to crankshaft revolutions) If your dead set on retaining the setup, definately get with a good dyno tuner first up and determine whether the problem is air flow related or not to make sure you don't chase your tail Quote: Originally Posted by InsaneVL The Intercooler's primary function is to cool the hot air from the turbo before going into the intake. This intercooler does this job fine.I'm pretty sure there is a relationship between intake and engine temps The car does not overheat all the time. It stays perfectly fine when driving and sitting in traffic on a hot day. It DOES get hotter when being punted around Queensland Raceway for 20 mins, or while doing a 2+ min burnout. Ha ha ha that is a bit more than what i would call spirited driving If I can get a larger thermo to fit between the radiator and belts, this should be a much cheaper option (particularly since I already have the thermo) than to go cutting the car and bar up and buying a new intercooler which I don't want, nor need. Hmmmm

Is the powersteering pulley a press fit? do you have the room to move the pulley 17mm? Pull the powersteering pump shaft out move pulley back, part off the excess shaft? Surely you could get a 2nd handy to pull apart and modify. Then measure your belt lengths and go down source a new belt at the correct length and you would be in business. Just make sure you have plenty of wrap around things when you work out how to run your belts so you don't get any slippage and big rpm's.

Re: timing - True. I will have a look at the timing when I can get my hands on a timing light. Yes - if the intake temps are quite high, they can have an effect on engine temp by causing predetonation. Being that I run 11-12psi on high boost through this cooler - I can't see it being too much of a problem. Couple that with when the cooler was first put on - only the 16" thermo on the front was the only source of air flow for the radiator. This obviously wasn't enough as the car did heat up (particularly on hot days in traffic!). So the 10" was added on the back as that's all I could fit. This improved the situation, but not to the point i would like it. As such, I would say - more airflow = better results as the 16" on the front is on its way out and the 10" on the back is a bit small. This is my reasoning behind this. lol about the "spirited driving" Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT Is the powersteering pulley a press fit? do you have the room to move the pulley 17mm? Pull the powersteering pump shaft out move pulley back, part off the excess shaft? Surely you could get a 2nd handy to pull apart and modify. Then measure your belt lengths and go down source a new belt at the correct length and you would be in business. Just make sure you have plenty of wrap around things when you work out how to run your belts so you don't get any slippage and big rpm's. Remembering what we done on my mates race car to use a 186 power steering pump on an RB30 (yeah sounds silly, speedway car) it is very easy to make custom brackets as its as simple as a plate with the holes in it coming square off the block and your free to mount werever you want. We made a whole new bracket but for the sake of ease you could make a new plate and reposition the rest of the standard bracket on this plate set back the required amount, meaning the pump stays untouched for ease of service or replacement. That being said i don't think its worth doing, getting the fan to suck should be about the same as it blowing the difference would be bugger all EDIT: So you haven't fitted the new 16" yet? If not just put that up front blow through

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT Is the powersteering pulley a press fit? do you have the room to move the pulley 17mm? Pull the powersteering pump shaft out move pulley back, part off the excess shaft? Surely you could get a 2nd handy to pull apart and modify. Then measure your belt lengths and go down source a new belt at the correct length and you would be in business. Just make sure you have plenty of wrap around things when you work out how to run your belts so you don't get any slippage and big rpm's. This is what I was thinking - the pulley looks like it has room to move back along the shaft. Has anyone done this? can anyone tell me how its put together and if its even possible to move it back along the shaft? Is it a matter of taking the pump off and using some "persuasive force" to push it back the required amount? or will it need machining/hydraulic press? Quote: Originally Posted by RB2GO Remembering what we done on my mates race car to use a 186 power steering pump on an RB30 (yeah sounds silly, speedway car) it is very easy to make custom brackets as its as simple as a plate with the holes in it coming square off the block and your free to mount werever you want. We made a whole new bracket but for the sake of ease you could make a new plate and reposition the rest of the standard bracket on this plate set back the required amount, meaning the pump stays untouched for ease of service or replacement. That being said i don't think its worth doing, getting the fan to suck should be about the same as it blowing the difference would be bugger all EDIT: So you haven't fitted the new 16" yet? If not just put that up front blow through Yeah - was thinking it might be easier just to drill new holes in the mounting plate on the block 17mm forward setting the pump 17mm back. The issue with just putting the new 16" on the front is that it blows through the air con condenser, then a 20mm gap, then the 100mm thick intercooler, then a 10mm gap, then the radiator. This would be fine if its all sealed - but its not. Air would be escaping out the sides and top and bottom between the layers. Believe it or not - this can greatly reduce the effectiveness of the thermo fan. This is why most stock setups are a suck-type with a shroud to get the most air through the radiator.

I seriously don't know how they are put on the shaft for VL's, alot of it is press fit and a grub screw to hold them. If this is the case removes said grub screw and you will need a hydraulic press with some dies to suit to push it down. (Usually a large socket lol). Otherwise move the power steer pump to where the ac used to be a make a bracket to suit the new home. Check your belt lengths and if it is spinning the right way, make up new lines to suit different location for your reservoir and your in action. I'm just sending a txt to my little brother he works in the game. He maybe able to tell me.

Thanks Duke - that would be great if you could find out. I already have custom made powersteering lines, so not really keen on re-doing them - so the original placing is fine - just need to have the pulley moved back 17mm. By doing that it would mean the belt will go on the larger pulley on the harmonic ballancer and hence spin the pump at a faster rate. Being that I intend to rev the car more than just your average "driving along" rate - I may need a larger pulley on the power steering to offset this increase. In which case, while changing the pulley on the P/S pump, I may be able to set it back further.

We're coming up with lots more questions than answers!! If you were to relocate the pump that way, you still have the problem of drive from the crankshaft at the correct rpm. Certainly all the gaps between cores is going to kill the thermos work thats for sure. How hot does it get running around the track? I'd say forget them nasty burnouts, i like my bores round thanks!

Quote: Originally Posted by RB2GO We're coming up with lots more questions than answers!! If you were to relocate the pump that way, you still have the problem of drive from the crankshaft at the correct rpm. Certainly all the gaps between cores is going to kill the thermos work thats for sure. Yes - hence why I want to mount it on the back if at all possible. I would need to underdrive the p/s pump if I did. As per my above post. Maybe the answer is I can get another pulley and get it pressed on at the right depth to solve all my problems.

How hot is it getting, and are you stopping because of heat or just because its the end of your run?

Track work, end of run - temp guage is about 1 or 2 bars from "H" - but never on or over the end. Burnouts - it goes all the way to the end and then some (whoops) - so stopping early. usually about 1min to 1min30 mark its really hot. This also makes me feel its a air flow issue that relocating the thermo's will help with. Might invest in a good Temp guage while i'm at it... should have one anyway.

Thats exactly what i was about to say, definately get a good gauge on it for starters. Get that installed, keep an eye on it at the track and leave the burnouts for the real cars. Problem solved for the cost of 1 gauge! By the way no offence on the real cars thing i love VLT's as much as anyone and am building one myself but they perform a pathetic display burnout no one wants to see that. Check out ATRISK, UCSMOKE or BIGV8 on youtube