Hey guys, Just a quick one. Are many people running alpine type R's? 1st...I'm looking at getting 4 x 6" splits and a 12" sub all alpine type R. Would these be any good or is there something else in the same price range that might be better. 2nd...4x 6" splits or 2x 6" splits and 2 6x9's? My guess is the 6x9's would limit how loud I could turn up the volume as at some point the bass would be to much for them to handle. In advance...I am aware of the "search" function but nothing has caught my attention that really gives me a answer to the question. Thanks Ok I just bought off a mate 2 x alpine type R subs in a box for $250. They are 1 year old. Is this a good buy or not? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I'm running 2 12" type R's with a pdx1.1000, 2 SPR-17's 6.5"splits and SPR-69c 6x9's with a pdx4.150. Talk about vibrating mirrors. This would have to one the best systems I've own to date. I've had kenwood, kicker and pioneer and now my thoughts are, there's nothing better than alpine. system specs. 2 x Alpine type r 12" 1500w peak 500w RMS 2 x Alpine type r spr 69c 300w peak 100w RMS 2 x Alpine type r spr 17s 330w peak 110w RMS Alpine pdx 1.1000 2200w total Alpine pdx 4.150 880w total IVA-W502E mobile media station If your after quality go R's there reasonably price If your after competition go X's but there expensive Trust me. R's pump This is my system Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i thought its bad to mix 6x9's with a sub tho?

Your right in a free air configuration. But with a sealed sub box the sound is awesome.

so the 6x9's won't be distorted when I turn the volume up? Because it wouldn't be able to handle as much bass as the sub?

if the 6 x 9s are running off an amp u need to switch on the high pass filter and cut it at bout 80htrz this will remove most of the bass from the 6 x 9s and allow them to go louder without distortion.. the 6 x 9s dont neeed the bass as u have the subs for that Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ah ok thought so. so my last question, in the back should I have 6x9's, splits or co-axials?

I reckon 6x9's in the back and splits in the front. As for the 2 alpine type r's and a box for $250. Great Buy!!

Might go the 6x9's then in the back. I ended up selling the 2x type R subs because they took up too much space. I bought a single type R dual 4o.h.m in a box for $150 from a mate. My next question is... I am looking at getting a alpine MRD-M500 is this the best to get value for $$$ ? Or are there any other brands that are decent? Are JL audio any good?

JL are definitely worth checking out.

ive been running the same type r speakers (6.5", 6x9" and a 12" sub) for 7 years now, moving them from car to car. hugely impressed with them and only just blew one of the 6 inchers the other day. id say thats quality as they get a hard time every day!

Quote: Originally Posted by andy_vlct ive been running the same type r speakers (6.5", 6x9" and a 12" sub) for 7 years now, moving them from car to car. hugely impressed with them and only just blew one of the 6 inchers the other day. id say thats quality as they get a hard time every day! what kind of amp are you running for the sub? Quote: Originally Posted by Stevo 88 JL are definitely worth checking out. would you rate them as a cheap brand or up there with alpine?

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaun_VL would you rate them as a cheap brand or up there with alpine? Some of their stuff is affordable but they are not a "cheap" brand - I think some of their best stuff (especially subs) may actually be more expensive than alpine. JL is one of the popular brands that get mentioned a lot on the car audio forums, and they are used in many soundoff competition cars. Alpine make good products for sure, and their headunits have a good reputation for sound quality, but they are not the final word in car sound. There has been some talk on MEA that Alpine have gone a bit soft on their latest range of amps - that their internals are not as gutsy as they used to be in say the Alpine V12 amps. Probably still fine for the average listener though; Hturbo seems to be happy with his. I agree with Adictiv regarding the 6x9 speakers too: if you must have them, highpass them at 80hz.

So what kind of amp would you guys be looking at for around the $300- $450 mark if you were in my position??? And so does everyone recommend 6x9's for the back instead of coaxials?

Quote: Originally Posted by Shaun_VL So what kind of amp would you guys be looking at for around the $300- $450 mark if you were in my position??? You just need a decent monobloc amp with a few hundred watts RMS, from a decent well known brand. Alpine, JBL, JL and others. Make sure it's stable at 2ohms - most monos are, so that shouldn't be a problem. And if you don't have an amp for your other speakers, you should also consider getting a 2 or 4 channel amp at some stage. Quote: Originally Posted by Shaun_VL And so does everyone recommend 6x9's for the back instead of coaxials? i wouldn't really recommend them, that's why I said to highpass them at 80hz. It really depends what you're after in a system though. Car systems tend to fall into 2 broad categories: SQ (sound quality), or SPL (sound pressure level). If your main aim is to make as much noise as possible, then sure, buy them. On the other hand, rear speakers are considered to be almost irrelevant by many people who have serious SQ systems - some people have $10,000 systems with stock rear speakers or cheap coaxials on the parcel shelf - they either don't use them, or have them faded very low for some "rear fill", or just use them when they have passengers in the back. If you have good speakers up front and fade mostly or fully to the front, the sub should blend well and will sound like the sub bass is coming from the front speakers. But if you have 6x9 speakers on the parcel shelf (without highpassing them) they will ruin this illusion, and it will be obvious that the sub bass is coming from the back.

Ok bit of a update, I bought a new amp from jb hi-fi for $450. retail $599 JL AUDIO G1700 Specs: 350 W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm 700 W RMS x 1 @ 2 ohm It is under rated how ever. So I have that powering my Alpine type R. I ran in to a problem though. I realised my 7" touch screen deck doesn't have sub rca ports which is pretty annoying. To get around this I had to wire the RCA cables to the amp from the rear speakers which sucks because it is hard to tune because at the moment I have crappy 6x9's at the back that aren't running off a amp so I can't fade them out and get there crappy bass. My question is should I leave it running off the rear speakers, or should I buy one of those line converters ??? I'm not overally familiar with them but understand that they might solve the problem but might take some power away from my sub. Any suggestions? Thanks

how's the sub go with the JL? 700w should get it moving pretty well. Pity the deck doesn't have 3 outputs. Oh well. Option 1) cost: nothing disconnect your back speakers. Just make sure you cover the wire ends in tape so they don't short out your deck. It costs nothing to try and you never know - you might become a 'front stage only' system convert. Your sub will provide all the frequencies from real low up to 80hz or wherever you set the crossover - and if your front speakers are any good they will play everything from 80hz upwards no problem. In other words you won't be missing out on any part of the audio spectrum by disconnecting the back speakers, and your deck will let you fade between front speakers and sub to get the balance right. Option 2) cost: $15 fader (plus $50 amp from crime converters if necessary) Buy one of these http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...form=KEYW ORD (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0485&keywords=fader&form=KEYWORD) They are only $15. I remember paying about $90 for an alpine one years ago. You can hide it in your console or something. It takes one pair (left & right) of RCA inputs and gives you 2 pairs of outputs, and you can fade between them. Note that if you don't have an amp running your front or back speakers, you'll need one to make this work. It's still not ideal compared to having a deck with 3 outputs, but once you get it adjusted right it should sound just as good. You could run say your front RCA into the fader and it will give you 2 outputs - one to your JL amp, and the other will go to your 2 channel amp. Then your rear channel will adjust as normal from your deck. But to adjust the balance between front speakers & sub you would have to turn the dial on the fader. Of course you could set it up the opposite if you wanted: ie amp the back speakers and have the fader connected to them and the sub. Option 3) New deck. Option 4) run front & back speakers off a 4 channel amp, and adjust the gain for the back speakers till you get it right. But you won't be able to adjust it while you're driving. Try to avoid line converters if possible.

Quote: Originally Posted by Stevo 88 how's the sub go with the JL? 700w should get it moving pretty well. Pity the deck doesn't have 3 outputs. Oh well. Option 1) cost: nothing disconnect your back speakers. Just make sure you cover the wire ends in tape so they don't short out your deck. It costs nothing to try and you never know - you might become a 'front stage only' system convert. Your sub will provide all the frequencies from real low up to 80hz or wherever you set the crossover - and if your front speakers are any good they will play everything from 80hz upwards no problem. In other words you won't be missing out on any part of the audio spectrum by disconnecting the back speakers, and your deck will let you fade between front speakers and sub to get the balance right. Option 2) cost: $15 fader (plus $50 amp from crime converters if necessary) Buy one of these http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...form=KEYW ORD (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0485&keywords=fader&form=KEYWORD) They are only $15. I remember paying about $90 for an alpine one years ago. You can hide it in your console or something. It takes one pair (left & right) of RCA inputs and gives you 2 pairs of outputs, and you can fade between them. Note that if you don't have an amp running your front or back speakers, you'll need one to make this work. It's still not ideal compared to having a deck with 3 outputs, but once you get it adjusted right it should sound just as good. You could run say your front RCA into the fader and it will give you 2 outputs - one to your JL amp, and the other will go to your 2 channel amp. Then your rear channel will adjust as normal from your deck. But to adjust the balance between front speakers & sub you would have to turn the dial on the fader. Of course you could set it up the opposite if you wanted: ie amp the back speakers and have the fader connected to them and the sub. Option 3) New deck. Option 4) run front & back speakers off a 4 channel amp, and adjust the gain for the back speakers till you get it right. But you won't be able to adjust it while you're driving. Try to avoid line converters if possible. The JL amp pumps the sub pretty hard. I'm pretty happy with it. It's just a shame I can't tune it well at the moment so I can't get full potential. I only have crappy sony 6' coaxials at the front at the moment and 6x9's at the back. I'm just getting everything in bits and pieces. they aren't running off a amp though. I think I will disconnect the back speakers to run the sub for the time being so I can tune it well, buy type r splits and run them off a amp and maybe not have rear speakers. Then eventually buy a new deck with out puts and complete the system. What would you do if you didn't want to change the deck atm though? (http://img198.imageshack.us/i/14778.jpg/) Also just another quick question what would you have everything set to? low or high voltage, what frequency etc? cheers Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yeah looks like a pretty good amp. Chances are it will probably outlast the rest of your system and still be good in 10 years. Just make sure it has decent airflow around it, and don't ever drive it into clipping. Unfortunately your system is in a bit of a no win situation until you get good splits and a 2 or 4 channel amp. Your speakers just won't be able to keep up with your sub bass setup. Also - to get really "punchy" sounding drums etc, you need good sub bass AND good midbass. Even if you had them amped you might be disappointed with the sound. Are the 6x9s new or were they already there? Good 6x9s should have fairly strong midbass - if they don't, they are probably either cheap ones or the deck's amp section is running out of puff. Anyway, if you can't afford new speakers & amp for a while, the first thing I would try is disconnecting the back speakers (with stereo off and straight away tape up the wires). The obvious advantage is that you'll be able to fade between the sub bass and a normal set of speakers. You'll know pretty much right away if its better or not and you can always hook them up again if you don't like it. For the settings, starting from right, -set the filter to about 100, maybe 125. That's because your sonys are probably not making much sound below that point and you don't want a "hole" in your frequency response. When you get some good splits with decent midbass, you can set it to about 80. -the filter slope - probably best to set it to roll off at 12dB per octave. You could try 24 as well if you want- you probably won't notice a big difference between the two. Seeing as your deck doesn't have a sub output, I'll assume it doesn't have a LP setting either - so use 12 or 24 on the JL, don't set it to "off". -input sensitivity (gain). Consider it a "level matching" control to suit your deck so that you have good control over the volume. You don't want your amp blowing speakers apart when the deck volume is on 3. And you don't want to turn your deck up to 20 before you can hear the music. Set it on the low side for a start though, seeing as your other speakers aren't amped. **I should point out though - if you don't trust yourself to know when an amp is clipping or when a speaker is at its limit, you should find some gain setting tutorials on the web. - Try the bass boost if you feel like it. I don't really see the point since you already have 700w and a volume control. I think its a feature they throw in because people expect to see it. Can't hurt to try it though. I don't know what frequency it boosts at. The overall frequency response will depend on type of sub, type of enclosure, which way it faces etc. -preouts - you'll probably never need to use them. -input voltage - depends on your deck. Some expensive units have high outputs like 8volts. I'm not sure which is best for yours, probably low. I think this switch will affect the gain control too, so careful if you change the switch. Hopefully the above will get you some more usable sound for the time being. Seeing as u asked what I would do - If it were my system and i couldn't get a new deck, I would get just two things- new splits, and a 2 channel amp (maybe second hand) to run them, with 6x9s disconnected. Then your deck can fade between them no problems and no need for adaptors. Would be a good idea to listen to that kind of system first to make sure you like it.

I'm not really too sure what clipping is, I did a quick search but didn't make overally much sense. I ended up disconnecting the rear speakers for now. They are just kenwoods that the guy before me put in so I'm better off them doing nothing. I think I might just save up for a 4 channel amp, type r splits and type r 6x9s or coaxials and eventually a new deck and just tune it as best I can at the moment. thanks for all your help mate.