Hey guys... ummm... i got the stupid attack, and started hitting my car with 1200 paper, autoglym and the buffer... anything special i should do? at the moment, im sanding the car til the paint is flat flat... putting the autoglym polish on, spraying water and hitting it with the buffer at 50% speed, making sure that the rotation is away from the edge. then cleaning off the polish, and hitting it with turtlewax (the green stuff)

you have to make sure your not rubbing off all the clear. i'd use 1500 not 1200. What autoglym product are you using? after rubbing it you need to us a cutters not a polish. Start the buff off slow, like speed one or two then build up don't go to fast or it will burn the paint. what sort of pad are you using? lambs wool or foam? if foam what colour?

ill go get some 1500 and 2000 paper tomorrow recommend a cutter, at the moemnt i only have kitten number 2 (red tin, seems too coarse for my liking) im using a lambswool pad. would foam be better? if so, what foam pad (color) its had about 3 liters of clear on the whole car, so i hope i dont get through... i am sanding and wiping it clean, until its flat, none of the ripply stuff. but if i ****it up bad, im not too worried... as it will get resprayed soon again... ill have to check the polish im using... its in the garage, and its locked... ill do so tomorrow after work... my next problem, is the bootlid is soooo flimsy, its bending heaps when u apply any pressure on it... soo scared of dinting it... any tips? what motion with the sandpaper, and im using HEAPS of water if i bring the ****box to u, what will u charge to buff it? (pm me if u want)

IMO you should get somebody who knows what they are doing to look after it. You could easily stuff the paintwork up. Especially rubbing with 1200.... too coarse.

so, i should ask G? trust me, you cant **** it up anymore than what it is at the moment... ive spent the whole afternoon just looking at every single panel, every angle, and the paint is ****ed... i just want it shiny looking good before it goes in again... im sick of ****s with empty promises... the ****en black hasnt been done yet, rear spoiler is still untouched... sanding marks through the eyelids (the ONLY part i wanted perfect) no painton edges and starting surface rust line on the front guard is wavy, as well as above fuel cap the **** chips easy, and im here peeling it off with my nail.. you really think im scared if i go through the clear? lol... worst thing is, i cant sell it as it is... you learn... i have spent about 800 bux... so thats all good... but its the time that the car hasnt been up and running... 5 months offroad, and now running around in limbo... **** it... ill ****en finish it myself, and get it redone at a shop with a guarantee at least it will be done... im just really cut now... shouldnt have put the vlt diff in it or the 3.9's.. just should have got a ****ter 50bux special from the wreckers and sent the car away to someone i dont know btw im not gonna use 1200 anymore... i think ill get some 2k.... it will take longer, but yeh...

i'd grab a bottle of farecla g3.Lambswool is fine. With the sanding back, use a soft block in a circular motion keeping it nice and wet do one panel at a time and only work a say 30cm x 30cm section at a time with the buff, be carefull on the edges and don't sit in one section to long or it will burn the paint. With the sanding don't use your finger tips if you aren't using a block it will leave finger marks, keep them tight together creating like a block behind the paper

Another thing that sometimes helps is a very small amount of soap in the water. It helps keep the paper gliding across the paint and doesn't dig in. As fatpsi mentioned, g3 is good stuff.

Quote: Originally Posted by FATPSI i'd grab a bottle of farecla g3.Lambswool is fine. With the sanding back, use a soft block in a circular motion keeping it nice and wet do one panel at a time and only work a say 30cm x 30cm section at a time with the buff, be carefull on the edges and don't sit in one section to long or it will burn the paint. With the sanding don't use your finger tips if you aren't using a block it will leave finger marks, keep them tight together creating like a block behind the paper still havent been near the garage to find out what autoglym it is... its an older one.. .no grit in it... says for polishing of >1200 finished paint 2k and clear safe... that polish you said... firstly... where do you get it... secondly, use that polish with the buffer then what do you use after that for the hand polish? it actually looks quite good at the back of the car... the back back of the bootlid... the top im still working on, i havent sanded enough yet... i hope to do some more this weekend

chuck some pics up Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ill wash it tonight and take some tomorrow as im not working.... you can actually see reflections on it now .... but fark it gets dirty soo fast!!!! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

sounds like your getting there im so eager to start priming my car ***ing kevin rudd hurry up and pay me lol

id be too scared....how bad does it look with out a rub back and buff...

ever seen an orange vs an apple (thats been waxed)? thats the difference.. there is no shine at all... but where i have done, its real nice. and smooth

what colour have you sprayed the car

Righto.. Wetsanding 1200 is too harsh IMO. Even 1500 is pushing it but if your paint is THAT bad well then ok. You shouldn't be sanding with 1500 then polishing right after that. And if you are trust me theres no Autoglym polish that will remove 1500gritt sanding marks, don't worry about what the bottle says it's a load of crap. You should be doing the sanding in a few steps I.E - 1500 , 2000 , 4000. Each step will make the sanding marks finer and will be easier to remove for when your polishing. Polishing What buffer are you using, what pads are you using? Autoglym won't doo much for sanding marks, it might have abrasives in it that will get rid of half of them and then fillers that will fill in any remaining marks. So you'll think your job is done then in a few weeks when the fillers will wash away your going to be pretty pissed off. Once again the polishing has to be done in steps. When I am polishing a car I might do a panel 3-5 times before I even think about waxing it. I.E - Heavy cut ( check if all marks are gone ) do another heavy cut if any marks remain, medium cut to remove holograms/marring from heavy cut, check it again, do another light cut to remove anything from the medium cut, then a finishing polish to remove anything from the above step and to give the paint gloss/shine. IMO you should be getting something that know's what they're doing to do the polishing. As I said before you don't want to think you've removed the sanding marks but they're still there. It has happened to me alot of times I wetsand then I cut the sanding marks out and I think they're all gone then I do an alcohol wipe down to remove any oils from the cutting compound and theres sanding marks still. Real pain in the ass! If you want me to do the polishing we can organise a time for it do be done.

G to da rescue

Quote: Originally Posted by HDT-VLCLE G to da rescue at least my car has paint on it... gimme your mx7 Quote: Originally Posted by G Righto.. Wetsanding 1200 is too harsh IMO. Even 1500 is pushing it but if your paint is THAT bad well then ok. You shouldn't be sanding with 1500 then polishing right after that. And if you are trust me theres no Autoglym polish that will remove 1500gritt sanding marks, don't worry about what the bottle says it's a load of crap. You should be doing the sanding in a few steps I.E - 1500 , 2000 , 4000. Each step will make the sanding marks finer and will be easier to remove for when your polishing. Polishing What buffer are you using, what pads are you using? Autoglym won't doo much for sanding marks, it might have abrasives in it that will get rid of half of them and then fillers that will fill in any remaining marks. So you'll think your job is done then in a few weeks when the fillers will wash away your going to be pretty pissed off. Once again the polishing has to be done in steps. When I am polishing a car I might do a panel 3-5 times before I even think about waxing it. I.E - Heavy cut ( check if all marks are gone ) do another heavy cut if any marks remain, medium cut to remove holograms/marring from heavy cut, check it again, do another light cut to remove anything from the medium cut, then a finishing polish to remove anything from the above step and to give the paint gloss/shine. IMO you should be getting something that know's what they're doing to do the polishing. As I said before you don't want to think you've removed the sanding marks but they're still there. It has happened to me alot of times I wetsand then I cut the sanding marks out and I think they're all gone then I do an alcohol wipe down to remove any oils from the cutting compound and theres sanding marks still. Real pain in the ass! If you want me to do the polishing we can organise a time for it do be done. thanks for that G seems like more of a headache than its worth.... the color is Morning blue with a pearl in it...

g's avatar looks phat. Mad gloss, shiney as **** Post a how to tut Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

G, out of interest, how much would you charge for a a job like that?

autoglym fine abrasive... 03B now you can see the difference... top pic was very light sanding with 1200 then attacking with autoglym fine 03b on the buffer with a sheep wheel next pic is how it is... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.