can some one help me i have broken 2 oil pumps on my 25/30 what can cause this to happen? how can i fix it? and can some one tell me if you can fit an external pump on the 25/30 if so what do you have to do? or is it better to stick with the internal one?

i see know one has any answers?

problem is that there are only a couple of points where the oil pump gets drive from the crank. fit a jun crank collar an n1 oil pump and you wont break them anymore

Quote: Originally Posted by ipg problem is that there are only a couple of points where the oil pump gets drive from the crank. fit a jun crank collar an n1 oil pump and you wont break them anymore apartently the car had one of them on it originally and it pumped all the oil to the head and stuffed the bottom and...... do you have one on you car? and the pump will only fit the car if it has the collar right?

Quote: Originally Posted by grunter01 apartently the car had one of them on it originally and it pumped all the oil to the head and stuffed the bottom and...... do you have one on you car? and the pump will only fit the car if it has the collar right? you may need restrictors in the head to prevent over supply of oil to the head, how are the pumps failing? hi revs? can you put up some pictures of the broken pumps along with bearings crank etc helps look at what caused it rather than missing the issue and going for an external pump which can cost $1000's and possibly not fix anything

Quote: Originally Posted by vltrb-0 you may need restrictors in the head to prevent over supply of oil to the head, how are the pumps failing? hi revs? can you put up some pictures of the broken pumps along with bearings crank etc helps look at what caused it rather than missing the issue and going for an external pump which can cost $1000's and possibly not fix anything the guy who had it before me had the problem with the pump he had an n1 supposedly on it and it pumped all the oil to the top end? the pump was taken of it then, but he said that he put the pump straight and didnt have to use the collar? i was under the imprestion that the n1 had to use the collar to fit. the standard oil pump on it originally broke the shaft from over reving it. i am going to pull the pump off this week end and try and figure out what caused it?

Quote: Originally Posted by grunter01 the guy who had it before me had the problem with the pump he had an n1 supposedly on it and it pumped all the oil to the top end? the pump was taken of it then, but he said that he put the pump straight and didnt have to use the collar? i was under the imprestion that the n1 had to use the collar to fit. the standard oil pump on it originally broke the shaft from over reving it. i am going to pull the pump off this week end and try and figure out what caused it? Ill be using an external pump on my 26/30, i think they are way more reliable than the stock pump or N1's, heard to many horror storys. From what i understand to use an external pump you will need to make a bracket to mount the pump, and make a stub shaft to mount the gear on the crank with a longer bolt and block off an oil feed hole and the pressure relief hole around the filter in the block and make a new pick up in the sump and then feed into where the filter mounts. And then take the gears out of the stock pump. All in all it's not a cheap excercise but well worth the piece of mind i think! this guy has done it and has put up a few pics http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=144446

Quote: Originally Posted by grunter01 the guy who had it before me had the problem with the pump he had an n1 supposedly on it and it pumped all the oil to the top end? the pump was taken of it then, but he said that he put the pump straight and didnt have to use the collar? i was under the imprestion that the n1 had to use the collar to fit. the standard oil pump on it originally broke the shaft from over reving it. i am going to pull the pump off this week end and try and figure out what caused it? honestly if you rev it that hard your asking for issues, i highly doubt 99.9% of users are mark skaife and flog there cars from start to finish. there is no need to ring your motors neck to that extent to check the pump and snouth measure the flats on the pump drive and see if they are the same length as the pump drive gears, if the gear is wider then this will explain your pump breaking put some pictures up alot easier than us guessing

Quote: Originally Posted by vltrb-0 honestly if you rev it that hard your asking for issues, i highly doubt 99.9% of users are mark skaife and flog there cars from start to finish. there is no need to ring your motors neck to that extent to check the pump and snouth measure the flats on the pump drive and see if they are the same length as the pump drive gears, if the gear is wider then this will explain your pump breaking put some pictures up alot easier than us guessing i will put some up when i pull it down... Quote: Originally Posted by SliverCal Ill be using an external pump on my 26/30, i think they are way more reliable than the stock pump or N1's, heard to many horror storys. From what i understand to use an external pump you will need to make a bracket to mount the pump, and make a stub shaft to mount the gear on the crank with a longer bolt and block off an oil feed hole and the pressure relief hole around the filter in the block and make a new pick up in the sump and then feed into where the filter mounts. And then take the gears out of the stock pump. All in all it's not a cheap excercise but well worth the piece of mind i think! this guy has done it and has put up a few pics http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=144446 sounds like alot of work what do you think it would cost?

Yeah there's a bit of work in it, cost wise, well your looking at about 1k at least for just the pump and drive kit then theres the rest...

Food for thought, posted from RIPZ on SAU. I will ask what oil setup he's running. Quote: Just to add to the discussion on standard cranks, rpm limits, power they will hold etc. Our original 240z RB30 with a totally stock block (no filler or braces) stock crank, stock mains cradle and used mains bolts, did a full season last year running reliable 8s in street trim, it was pulled down end of last season, not a mark on anything, even re-used the same rings and bearings, changed the turbo, wound it up some more, rev it to 10,000rpm at times, run to 9200-9300/1000whp at the strip and we've just run an 8.36 still untouched. This motor has had 2 oil changes only, still on its 1st set of plugs etc. Don't underestimate the strength of stock parts!!! Rob

yeah i will proble go for the stock one again.... i pulled my motor apart and found that the front of the cank was warn, witch made it spin in the cog of the oil pump and split the cog in half and seizd it all but the crank kept on spinning in the cog and put fileings all through my motor..... looks like a big overhal!!!