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Hey guys, i was going to go down the daily driver 304 180rwkw mark, but decided to ditch the daily driver and build the 304 for some good power.
I need help on the set up, Ive got NO IDEA.
im going to rebuild my 304, but im not sure on what specs.
i would like to have forged internals if its not to pricey.
a decent cam, star performance 90 mm tb manifold.
but im stuck on everything else, my budget is 5 grand on the motor, 11 400 for the turbo kit, fitted and tuned.
im going with a EZE-10's Sti upgrade turbo kit,
* Garret T04S Turbocharger (600hp)
* Aluminium Intercooler (600x300x76mm)
* Polished Stainless Turbo Piping
* Silicone 3-Ply Turbo Hoses & Clamps
* Braided Oil Feed, Return Lines & Fittings
* Exhaust Manifold
* 3" Dump Pipe
* 38mm Wastegate
* Blow-Off Valve
* K&N High Flow Pod Filter
* Oil Catch Can & Hoses
* Haltec Ecu
* 550cc injectors
* fuel regulator
im looking at running 10 - 12 pounds of boost.
Any help for be greatly appreciated
i will be starting this project as soon as my tax comes in.
cheers
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Give Flowcraft a call they'll help you out with any questions you got, they built a twin turbo gen3 for a mate.
www.flowcraft.com.au (http://www.flowcraft.com.au)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsutels2
.......I need help on the set up, Ive got NO IDEA......
......my budget is 5 grand on the motor, 11 400 for the turbo kit, fitted and tuned.......
Ask the shop who is supplying and fitting the turbo kit for the specs they recommend
You'll get 30 different answers on here and as you have NO IDEA you will end up with the wrong setup
$5,000 won't get you much if you want drive in drive out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ EVLHSV
Ask the shop who is supplying and fitting the turbo kit for the specs they recommend
You'll get 30 different answers on here and as you have NO IDEA you will end up with the wrong setup
$5,000 won't get you much if you want drive in drive out.
i thought 5 grand would be able to do the motor?
its 11400 for the turbo kit and thats fitted and tuned..
i might have to go give a few people a call
and see what answers i get.
cheers
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budget seems quite reasonable, and this is something i've looked into, even though i dont own a 304, let alone be able to throw that kinda money at it, anyway:
screw together a nugget 355, with low comp forged pistons (like 8:1, i'll explain later), should be able to do it with about 5k
big single turbo, you'll probly spend the same/less and have a turbo capable of 1000hp (GT42 or 45ish sorta size) probly better of with a bigger gate too. you might even be able to retain one factory exhaust manifold, then make up the opposite side, or even retain both and just run crossover/merge pipes to the turbo
intake manifold, nice simple one, nothing too trick, like a single plane harrop or something like that
go bigger on the injectors, it shouldnt cost much more but give you more scope for the future
fuel pumps (big ones) i notice you left that out of your list
keep the standard cam (not on your list but probly crossed your mind and/or people will tell you to get a bigger one, they all have there reasons, this is just my preference) i'd leave the head as it is at first also, maybe work on that later on to see what gains are to be had (both of these depend on what your gonna be using the car for too i guess)
built auto/possibly bigger converter (very expensive item you left off the list)
make sure you go for a low comp bottom end, IMO, it'll be the difference between making 350rwkw and 600rwkw (note: may have slightly exaggerated figures a bit ). if you got high comp and 10-12, you'll be happy but you can get alot more. low comp, then turn that **** up to 22psi and aim high
everything else on your list seems reasonable, maybe a bigger dump/exhuast if you go big single. although theres heaps more, just do as much research as you can, maybe go on street commodores forum, a couple of turbo aussie motors on there
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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5G with the motor would be probally not enough, people always
forget how much machining costs, and majority of engine builders charge
a arm and a leg to assemble one.
I would use a vn motor, stock intake/tb , stock rods and crank, 2 bolt mains.
some forgies and a cam with around 270-280 degrees duration with a 114
lobe separation, you'll need head studs and some larry perkins race series or cometic head gaskets. And a Gt42 with a 1.15 exhaust housing .Everyone will have a different thought though
whats the power target though, for under 400rwkw a 3540 1.06 or t04z
would be the go.
cheers
darren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsutels2
i thought 5 grand would be able to do the motor?
its 11400 for the turbo kit and thats fitted and tuned..
i might have to go give a few people a call
and see what answers i get.
cheers
$5,000 will be enough for parts only. Most workshops will charge around $1,000 just to take the motor out and put it back in. What sort of gearbox are you running� have you budgeted for that?
People throw around figures like 400rwkw and 600rwkw without really knowing how much it costs to build a car with that sort of grunt that will last more than 5 minutes
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Think how much it costs then double it. That will get you close to the final figure. But in all seriousness if you can build a plan with a budget, with a reasonable power figure you may do ok. You just have to stick to it.
Thats the bit I found so hard, there was always one more shiny bit that i just had to have. In the end, youve spent 20g on a motor and you still have to fork out for a driveline to match it. That **** aint cheap.
Good luck - force fed and V8, it'll work
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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dude just ask Mark at EZE10's, he is the forced induction king.
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16-07-08, 18:56 GMT+10#10 Alright the plan is with the car, to have a very powerful streeter,
weekend cruizer and hopefully some good times down the quarter.
The drive line, i want to keep the manual.
i know the t5 box is ****e, so im going to try and hunt down
a gts t56, or ill get a conversion kit and just chuck in a T56 from a vt or something. not sure what path ill go down with the clutch
or the diff, its just got a stock lsd in it now its starting to get a little noisey, ill probably want some 4 11 gears mini spool full spool not sure just yet
theres that saying " If your going to do it, DO IT PROPERLY " if i need
to spend more money on the motor i suppose ill have to
it'll just take a bit longer.
im aiming for around 400rwkw at the moment, so i guess the T4 is out of the equation a GT42 - GT45 sounds very good, i want to be able to run low boost and still get good numbers, then switch her to a higher setting and fry the **** out of the tyres
I dont want a 355, and a big turbo set up i dont want to plant the foot and watch my petrol go down, as this will be a complete streeter.
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16-07-08, 19:01 GMT+10#11 Quote:
Originally Posted by vsutels2
im aiming for around 400rwkw at the moment
I dont want a 355, and a big turbo set up i dont want to plant the foot and watch my petrol go down, as this will be a complete streeter.
Mate if you want to make 400rwkw you will have to come to grips with watching the petrol gauge going down
Keep us posted when you start the build
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16-07-08, 19:51 GMT+10#12 Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ EVLHSV
Mate if you want to make 400rwkw you will have to come to grips with watching the petrol gauge going down
Keep us posted when you start the build
Haha. yeah thats true, maybe 350rwkw is more reasonable.
i did find from pavtec you can build a 475hp 355 for
only 5500 with a comp of 9.8 which is not too bad
something to think about i suppose.
back a few months in street commodoes this guy
does up a Vp CLubby 5L manual and straps
a T4 turbo on it with the motor,
Block bored, crack tested and chemically cleaned. Balanced
rotating assembly. standard crank, stock heads,
standard rods with ARP rod bolts
9:2:1 ACL forged pistons, heavy duty valve springs. Custom-ground cam
they never give the specs.. high volume oil pump PWR thermo fans
HKS air filter,blow off valve, Haltec E6GMX, Walbro in-tank fuel pump
adjustable fuel pressure regulator. 3.5:1 gears LSD, T5 gearbox custom single plate clutch rebuilt drive shaft and heavy duty CV joints. 3inch exhaust dumped at the diff. Custom 2.25inch Turbo Manifolds.
And that makes at a low 8pounds of boost 292RWKW
pretty unreal i reckon.. and it seems at at pretty reasonable price
PLUS this car is used as a Daily Driver.
Something to definitely look at.
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29-07-08, 20:05 GMT+10#13 Hey mate i see your from gippsland, where abouts? If your looking at building a good reliable engine give us a buzz, I can help you out.
James
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02-08-08, 12:20 GMT+10#14 my 2c
4 bolt mains including machining $3500 to $4000 depending on who u know.
H beam rods $600
Billet crank from come $2200
Good quality forgies $900
cam for boost $600ish
8.5:1 comp for boost
This combo will stay together for you running decent revs all day long
seriously if you cut corners at the end of the day you will be curled up in a ball in the corner crying
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03-08-08, 19:28 GMT+10#15 Quote:
Originally Posted by boom
bull****. thats a load of crap. if you pay 3000 for 4 bolt main you are getting ****ed up the ass. Racetech in liverpool charge 750 for machining, and M&W caps are $500.
IF you were going to that trouble you would go 355.
H-beams $400 from US
Forget Billet crank, wont need it unless you making 1200hp.
Cast Crankshaft Rebuilders crank $1400.
SRP forgies $550
again $600 for a cam for boost is getting raped unless you are going for a roller cam.
flat tappet (solid or hyd) custom cam is $358 from surecam.
there is a 1000hp vnss that uses twin GT35rs on a 2 bolt 355 with a cast CSR crank.
BTW hows the VK going? didnt it go in for a rebuild?
1. M&W 3 caps $470 front cap $152 Rear cap $430 so $1052 all up
2. Machining for deck height,block testing,boring and line honing,cast welding to accommodate the end bearing caps aswell,and balancing.say goodbye to 3000 to 3500 bucks, and in the case of a stroker allow for clearancing aswell.
The cam was a guess but don't forget to add 100 to that cam for new lifters
A forged billet crank will be needed for anything over 450 hp if you want it to be safe at revs.
To be honest ive never heard of surecam but im totally crane in that department.
And we haven't even touched the piston department properly yet persoally I dont like hypers but each to there own thats why im using wisco
To be honest my 355 atm is about $12000 in parts and machining maybe more I haven't sat down and added everything up cos I might scare myself.
The vk is going through a transformation with new pearl paint and and a strong 355 being built now.pics will be up when its done but atm its in primer.
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03-08-08, 19:40 GMT+10#16 You guys are funny, as soon as you talk about boost and
a v8, everyone starts on like its a horsepower heroes car, and
everything costs a billion dollars. You don't need a stroker,
you don't need 4 bolt mains, you don't need forged pistons and
you certainly don't need revs, just let the turbo do its job
and make sure you have enough cylinder head clamping as they are
bad in that department when they are naturally aspirated.
cheers
darren
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04-08-08, 16:42 GMT+10#17 next person who says forged pistons for a 304 gets a slapping'! there isnt any!
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04-08-08, 17:05 GMT+10#18 lol boom and his magical $4000 FI 355 builds...
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04-08-08, 17:06 GMT+10#19 i got custom made srp pistons for my 304 from the states, an only had to take 40 thou of the deckin hight,bored out 40thou ,only cost bout $500 for the machinin if that,$500 for the motor to be pulled down an built + put in the car .scat forged rods an crank,crow cam. in cluding buyin the motor only cost me bout $6000
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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04-08-08, 17:18 GMT+10#20 correct me if im wrong fellas but in my shoes im doing a simillar motor build not expecting stupid power but decent enough with the 304 injected 8 why not just get a rebuild kit freshin the whole motor up with newbies not goin stupid though ok can go 355 but why not get all the machining balancing done put a good rebuild kit in it and get a turbo/twin turbo/supercharger and get it mounted ( if turbo get manifolds made up by a pro/bluddy handy welder) bigger injecters and if needed a aftermarket computer (if needed) after doin all that gettin it tuned you'll have pretty fun power out of the motor and shouldnt have troubles i dont see why you would if it was all done proffesionally then you dont have to worry about the stroker just get a freshin up and forced induction SWEET,
for instance NZ EVLHSV he's vl had good power please correct me if im wrong he had blower injectors bigger fuel pump fuel reg something done to he's computer lol bigger throttle body and was it rebuilt? and it made good power why not do tha?
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