Back to shop ↗
THE HOLDEN COMMODORE FORUM

HOLDCOM Community

Built around the cars. Kept alive by the people.

+ Start a discussion
Holden Commodores gathered at Holdcom
Forum Home›Technical help
Technical help

timing belt issue

Started by CRMIN-4 vbmenu_register("postmenu_1883233", true); · 8 July 2008 · 13 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

just need help guys with a timing belt change step by step like how do i line up the head and the bottom end for timing to come correctly if any one can help cheers'
0 likes
mate ill try get some photos, but there is 2 timing marks that need to be lined up, one is on the crank timing belt cog, there is a small dot on one of the teeth that lines up to the notch on oil pump, and the cam pully also has a dot on one of the teeth it must be point straight up and lined up with a small flat machined section behind the pulley on the head just above where the cam seal holder bolts in, that dot must line up excatly in the middle of that flat section, its very easy to be a tooth out when lining up the cam pulley but take your time and get it right. Before you start anything, take the top timing cover off so it exposes the cam gear, get yourself a 27mm socket and turn the engine until you line up top dead centre, its the first timing mark on the balancer to the notch on the timing cover and when the dot on the timing gear is facing straight up, then begin pulling the balancer off, timing cover, etc. If its makes you feel comfortable mark the 2 top dead centre marks on the crank and cam pulley with liquid paper on the belt and just count those marks out onto your new belt. Loosen the tensioner and remove the old belt. Mate there is a few processes ive missed but when i get home ill try get some photos and put a step by step list together if you like.
0 likes
man your a legend plz try get the pics
0 likes
Your going to need a rattle gun to take the 27mm crankshaft bolt off, and remember when your putting the bolt back in, put a dot of Loctite on the thread.
0 likes
If by rattle gun you mean a socket with a 1m+ breaker bar on it, then yes, one of those haha. In all seriousness that's how I removed mine, rattle gun would be the easier approach if you have one though.
0 likes
27mm socket on breaker bar leaning against ground (pointing towards passenger side of car). Disable engine (disconnect c.a.s or something) then crank motor. A few quick cranks should do it. Tightening that bolt can be a different story...
0 likes
Dont be weak - its only 142 - 152Nm Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
0 likes
does any one have piks
0 likes
Step by step.. 1. disconnect battery. 2. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses +auto lines to radiator if automatic. 3. Remove screws that hold radiator shroud in place and undo nuts that hold the engine fan. 4. Remove the shroud and the fan at the same time. Remove radiator 5. Remove alternator, powersteering and air con belts of car. Remove harmonic balancer bolt. You will need a compressor with a rattle gun or you can do it as suggested above with a crack bar. 6. Need a harmonic balacer tool. Remove harmonic balancer. 7. Remove timing belt covers. 8. Put the harmonic balancer BOLT back in the crank and tighten up till you can turn the engine over by hand. 9. You will see a mark on the crank that needs to line up with another mark on the engine. Once this is lined up check the cam mark is facing 12:00 upwards. This means in relation to the engine. You will find the motor is sitting on a slant. 10. Back tensioner off. Remove timing belt. 11. Inspect water pump for leaks, crank and cam seals for leaks. WHen i have done my cars i always replace water pump, tensioner, cam and crank seals even if they are ok at time of inspection. 12. Make sure cam and crank are still lined up on marks. Put new timing belt on. 13. Adjust tensioner to allow tension on the belt. You don't want to much tension as the belt will be noisy, too loose and it may skip teeth. 14. check marks again and count the belt teeth from crank mark to cam mark. It should be 53 teeth if you have a standard cam gear. 15. Wind motor over. You will need to turn the crank 2 complete revolutions for the cam to do 1 revolution. Line marks up again. Check cam and crank mark. Count belt teeth and re check tension on belt. 16. If this is all ok wind over again for safety sake. 17. Reassemble previously removed parts. Its not a bad job. If you have never done one before i suggest you have someone with mechanical experience to watch over you. Can very easily bend valves if the timming is out.
0 likes
just remember, the motor is on a big lean towards the passenger side.. don't line the cam up vertical.. get a straight edge from the center of the crank to the cent of the cam.
0 likes
cheers guys thanks to dragme,tmatty
0 likes
Also here is a little tech thingy i did on removing the harmonic balancer, some people can find it hard. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=82635 also Dragme said about if its wrong it may bend valves, if this motor is a RB30E (not a twin cam convert or straight twin cam motor) this is not a problem and don't be too worried about it. single over head cam'ers are non interference motors.
0 likes
yep nissan were smart enough to make it a free spinning engine coz of the belt, is it true the engines on an angle?
0 likes
Yeh it slants to the passenger side. So when i said 12:00 up on the cam its in realation to the engine. So in actual fact the cam gear mark is around 1:00 or so.
0 likes
Sign in or create an account to reply. New members are welcome—no purchase or old CT account needed.

Who’s online

0 members and 1 guest active in the last 15 minutes

No signed-in members active right now. Guests are welcome to browse.

Visitors Today20

33,602 threads, 484,230 posts and 24,897 images saved from CalaisTurbo.
As at . Recovery is continuing.