Hey,
Just wondering if I should compensate for the bigger head with any more oil. Didnt think it would matter too much, but what sort of dry capacity should I use. Currently has 5L including filter. But havent started it yet and was told might need another 500ml to be standard? Not sure.
Thanks for that, When I didnt put the oil drain on at the bottom of the block a bit of oil came out of the t piece, so I would say it would be about right now.
I currently run the hydraulic r32 rb25de non-vct head with an rb25det oil pump and RB30E sump.
I now run a blocked rear restrictor and 1.5mm restrictor up front.
Its pretty much spot on; there is no longer a drop of oil in the catch can and after a long hard held power run on the dyno the oil level in the cam covers is what I would consider perfect.
Prior they would fill to the point where oil would start pumping in to the catch can and I could only just see the cam lobe poking out the top of the oil. So the cam cover was approximately half full. :S
Not good if I were to take a corner a tad quick as chances are it would surge.
If your running the VLT pump simply stick with the std 2 x 1.8mm restrictors and you really can't go wrong for a streeter. The RB20det oil pumps seem fine with the std 2 x 1.8mm oil restrictors for the street; only when you hit the track do they start filling the catch can a tad.
What the Japs do.
STD Rb26dett - 2mm up front blocked rear
N1 RB26dett - 1.8mm up front blocked rear
Tomei kitted RB26DETT - 1.5mm up front blocked rear
Jun pump kitted rb26dett - 1.1mm up front blocked rear.
I've had the 1.5mm restrictor up front with a blocked rear for approximately 20,000km's. I have the setup apart at the moment fitting cams (265/265 in/exh), the head cam caps looks fine.
If I were to do it again I wouldn't bother with the 1.5mm leaving the 1.8mm up front and simply block the rear. BUT this is only if I were running an rb25det pump or better.
The RB20det pump 2 x 1.5mm is spot on.
The RB30det is a very nice street motor with a GT3076 .82 hanging off the side.
Mine makes all its boost by 3000rpm; makes peak power at 6000rpm (268rwkw on 15psi) and holds power well enough for it to feel like its not dropping off until its 7000rpm cut.
Cruising around town with the odd squirt and accelerating faster than traffic most of the time I get around 11L/100km's. 450km's to 50litres.
As said above I'm fitting 265/265 duration cams (standard are 240duration inlet and 232 duration exhaust) which will shift peak power to around 6600rpm ish and hold pretty much flat until 7300rpm then slowly tail off. I won't be reving much more than 7k as I'm still on stock rods.
If you want it to rev harder than 7.5k with cams you REALLY need to start looking at an aftermarket inlet manifold with shorter runners. The 300mm stock runners are just too long for the 3ltr.
Others have picked up around 30rwkw on the same boost when dialing in the cams so there's no loss of low/mid range compared to stock. You can pick up around 20rwkw through the mid by pushing in a little more overlap and loose around 5-10rwkw top end. I'm going for the top end as its hard enough to get it hooking up pushing 20psi through the mid range as it is. :S
300-310rwkw on the std exh. manifold is the aim. Impossible to get any more out of the std exhaust manifold and there's really only another 10-20rwkw max left in the turbo. So quite a good match for the rb30det with the std exhaust manifold.
Drop 5litres in to it with a new filter it will be fine. I've been doing it with the rb30det for the last 90,000km's and prior the rb20det piece of laggy shiet for 115,000km's.
Apologise for the dribble. :P
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.