so a single outlet tank is limited to 200-220rwkw there are a few options to take, but this is one of the only legal options. here is normal tank (with exception to the T piece on the lockoff) Right to Left Fill guage manual stop valve electric lockoff to a T and dual lines. Inside the lockoff there will be a 3mm orifice and that's the point of restriction that will limit flow/hp, you could run 4 lines and it will be the same. here is a tank setup with a combination fill/outlet 1.thread in AFL(filler) 2.gauge 3.combined outlet/pressure relief valve(duo valve) 4.standard outlet upside down. to be honest i dont have anymore info than that lol. but thought others would like to know! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

the no 3 combination valve must be new

APA sell em, my mate bought a couple for his LTD, you will have to ring them direct and talk to someone who will sell you one, apparently theyre out of stock at the moment.

ha! the first pic is my setup. The most common legal way to get twin outlets without using a t-piece is to find one of the older style APA tanks that had 4 pads (read: fittings) and replacing the service valve with a combination "service/relief valve" as seen here: http://www.apamfg.com.au/main_pages/valving_apa.html If you are unable to find an older style tank, then using twin lines t-pieced off the one outlet on a new style tank (these only have 3 "pads") should be good for +300rwkw assuming you are using a big lockoff (which can have the orifice drilled out to 4mm and still seal effectively I have been told). AMR make some high flow lockoffs that are a good starting point for the 4mm mod (note this is also technically illegal) http://www.amrgas.com/gasandpetrol_lockoffs.html Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

^^ CUZ is on the money, also another legal way of doing it is removing the gauge and running another lockoff/outlet from there, ive spoken to gas fitters about doing it that way and its not a problem, however you have no idea on the amount of gas in the tank.

have not baught a new gas tank since 2002 and they were 4 valve. this is a good way to get double the flow legally i used to use a pre 91 4 valve add an external large lock off and there was my flow after a few tweeks to the flow control valve (service) you had more!

yeah cuz and xeturbo would know where i got the info from lol (performancelpg.com.au) i forgot to put it in the post

hey guys, i've been running twin outlet with no gauge as i don't have the valve at the top left of the pads on my current tank. i'm putting in another tank that is the same the tank and want to know if anyone has used the valve as the filler as per the pic in the thread... is it as simple as adding a fitting and its good to go? ie. will that valve cope as a filler without any mods?

Quote: Originally Posted by misk [View Post] hey guys, i've been running twin outlet with no gauge as i don't have the valve at the top left of the pads on my current tank. i'm putting in another tank that is the same the tank and want to know if anyone has used the valve as the filler as per the pic in the thread... is it as simple as adding a fitting and its good to go? ie. will that valve cope as a filler without any mods? Having no gauge is illegal. Im not sure exactly what your saying? What is described in that pic works fine and is legal(that pic is of one of my old tanks). The wording is a bit confusing tho.

sorry man. in the pic of your tank, you are using the pressure relief valve as the filler valve. did you have to do any mods to that valve for it to be used as a filler valve?

Quote: Originally Posted by misk [View Post] sorry man. in the pic of your tank, you are using the pressure relief valve as the filler valve. did you have to do any mods to that valve for it to be used as a filler valve? the original PRV that your thinking of is gone in the bin. the new PRV is in the new outlet assembly "called a duo valve", it has an outlet and PRV in one unit, see the outlet with the round thing on the side, its the PRV. This is how APA now make 3 hole tanks, they have put the PRV and combined it with an outlet fitting to save making 4 holes in the tanks, it eliminates the tapping procedure. the thread in AFL goes where the original PRV used to, the thread in AFL comes from older tanks although APA do stock them from time to time. nothing is modded on that tank setup, its all street legal and legit and will do 440 rwkw even with ****ty automix on a 5* canberra day. APA only make 3 hole tanks now, 4 hole is custom order. PPI is the way to go, just ask for whatever you want, easy as. Their is no secret to making power on gas, the main thing that stuffs people over is tank flow, tank size/lockoffs/lines, etc its just a fuel pump essentially, add more get more.

ive got the extra valve on my VH tank which ill be swapping over, hence the question so the PRV which is seperate to the windows is fine to use as a fill valve? i have the duo valve, normal outlet valve and level indicator, i just wasn't sure if the APR would all gas to flow IN to the tank. but if no mods are needed, its all good in the hood, ill just get some fittings for it. edit - just re read your post lol so i need to replace the PRV threaded valve with a threaded AFL? does it still operate like a standard fill valve like shutting off at 80%? ---------- Post added 05-08-11 at 00:55 ---------- all good, found more info thanks to google. is it common for the AFL valve to be floating around second hand - only trying to get an idea of how much demand there is for them to help me find one at workshop. do i just need the lower piece if i already have the top piece? ---------- Post added 05-08-11 at 01:08 ---------- also found this which a cheaper option. the screw in fill valve is around $85, but a screw in outlet is only $40. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by misk [View Post] ive got the extra valve on my VH tank which ill be swapping over, hence the question so the PRV which is seperate to the windows is fine to use as a fill valve? i have the duo valve, normal outlet valve and level indicator, i just wasn't sure if the APR would all gas to flow IN to the tank. but if no mods are needed, its all good in the hood, ill just get some fittings for it. edit - just re read your post lol so i need to replace the PRV threaded valve with a threaded AFL? does it still operate like a standard fill valve like shutting off at 80%? ---------- Post added 05-08-11 at 00:55 ---------- all good, found more info thanks to google. is it common for the AFL valve to be floating around second hand - only trying to get an idea of how much demand there is for them to help me find one at workshop. do i just need the lower piece if i already have the top piece? ---------- Post added 05-08-11 at 01:08 ---------- also found this which a cheaper option. the screw in fill valve is around $85, but a screw in outlet is only $40. Lol yeah confusing when you first look into it. Its best to buy the AFL to suit your tank, they vary depending on tank size, etc. I have heard that older twin tank installs into falcon wagons had them.....but for the price new I never bothered looking. The parts are cheap new. Yeah you could add a thread in outlet, and duo valve, and retain the original AFL, ditch the original outlet, could work easy. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

its funny after so many years of learning bout gas research setups n **** and showed heaps of people that pic as a guide on how to run twin outlet legally i never knew that valve had to be modified lol. with the threaded outlets, say someone is chasing 600rwkw, couldn't a second threaded hole be added to the tank so a third outlet could be run?

well not modified just replaced. yeah adding another threaded hole wouldn't be legal, but is totally possible. if your going to go down that path, just gut the factory standard outlet/lockoff and braze in a 1/2" ID copper tube, use 1/2" ID fuel line etc, then your talking! Once you get to that level its amazing how fast you can totally drop the tank press, three 600rwhp pulls will make a huge dent in tank press in a 60lt tank, so much so that even with 1/2" ID line from pickup to converters, the power will drop after. But practically speaking 10 seconds of 600rwhp is never required 3 times in a row. Not worth going the dodge route, its all cool till something goes wrong then your dead set fu&%ed. PPI is the best bet these days, custom size/config only limited by budget and space, plus the alloy helps boil off faster too, there are no secrets to making power on gas, its easy.

ltd351t ive been told for up to around 300kw's at the wheels you can just t piece the existing single lockoff on the tank, with twin lines and twin lockoffs up the front and you will be ok ? is that true ?

Quote: Originally Posted by holdenV8 [View Post] ltd351t ive been told for up to around 300kw's at the wheels you can just t piece the existing single lockoff on the tank, with twin lines and twin lockoffs up the front and you will be ok ? is that true ? maybe, give it a go, if it doesn't work at least you have the infrastructure in place so its not a loss. a lot comes down to the tank pressure/temp/fuel composition, etc. I always work on worst case, and in cold ACT weather with crappy automix I found 220rwkw is all that a stock single tank lock will do, so I always work on that, and am never dissapointed. It varies from setup to setup, we all talk rwkw, but never mention auto or manual? stock stall or not, healthy engine or not, etc, very very broad the figures we work with that are thrown around the net.

No worries thanks for the info. Yeah i understand what you mean by the dyno figures lol. So manny dif dynos cars engines gearboxes lol

Ordered mt duo valve and screw in AFL fitting today, Can't wait for twin lines and a dyno run. Thanks for the info guys, I have been searching so long for these answers

And the plot thickens, This is only a strait forward setup for tanks with a 45deg valve set-up. Mine are at 90deg. my local gas guy has told me that the pressure relief valve in my tank will have a tube that extends up past the level of gas. This is to prevent the pressure relief from discharging liquid. So in order to use the threaded AFL fitting I will have to drill out the tube. Also told me that the duo valve with built in pressure relief doesn't have a tail that extends up above the level of gas. So I will have to braze a tail on to prevent it discharging liquid. Has anyone else had these problems?