Hi guys
Just wondering before I go and try myself and curse and put myself in a bad mood.
Is it possible to adjust the Clutch fork pivit ball with the box still in the car??
I was thinking about pulling the boot off and going through the fork hole??
I dont have to take the gear box out again do I
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
well i installed a heavy duty ceramic clutch, after installing i couldnt get it into gear easily (very nochy undrivable) So i replaced master cylinder and replaced the slave with a smaller bore blue bird item for more throw.
Has helped alot and im able to drive it but my pedal is still very close to the floor where it engages/disengages and i feel its still not disengaging properly.
When i installed the new master cylinder it must of been a S2 cos it had a adjustable rod, but only after a few days it became very notchy again, cheaked the adjuster rod to the pedal and it had bent at the thread so i installed my S1 non adjustable rod witch is alot stronger looking.
Maybe make a adjustable master cylinder rod thats longer then standard??
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
its a brand new presure/clutch plate. The S2 master cylinders had a adjustable rod to the pedal so u could adjust where it engages.
I also thought the only way to properly adjust it is to adjust the pivit ball that the fork moves on but i dont want to take the gear box out again.
Ive done a few searchs and a few of u guys have had this trouble after installing a new heavy duty button clutch but havnt found anything to fix it??
yeh sounds like pressure plate..
when the car is off, how does the pedal feel? if its good, it won't have anything to do hydrolically.
edit .. might not be pressure plate :P
does your pp have adjustment springs etc?
no i dont think so and i wasnt told by the supplier that uses and fits the clutchs himself.
I dont see how it could be the presure plate if its new.
The manual has *** all information on adjusting the fork pivit ball. Hmmmm
Pedal feel is ok i guess but engages close to the floor.
i threw a washer under the pivot fork ball to move it out a little on my box, box was out but, no idea if you can reach it whilst box is in, i doubt it.
your fork may be bent?
Sorry dude, all the things you're wanting to check/adjust require the box coming out. If you can get your car on jack stands, then you can put a jack below the gearbox, and it should be a lot easier for you.
Any time I've had problems with my clutch engaging too close to the floor is when it needed to be bled, but it doesn't sound like yours needs to be bled.
Perhaps try putting a washer or two under the clutch fork pivot ball, it might help. Otherwise get a series 2 master cylinder (as you said) and do something about the adjustment there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
Sorry dude, all the things you're wanting to check/adjust require the box coming out. If you can get your car on jack stands, then you can put a jack below the gearbox, and it should be a lot easier for you.
Any time I've had problems with my clutch engaging too close to the floor is when it needed to be bled, but it doesn't sound like yours needs to be bled.
Perhaps try putting a washer or two under the clutch fork pivot ball, it might help. Otherwise get a series 2 master cylinder (as you said) and do something about the adjustment there.
cheers mate
I try making a stronger adjustable rod from master to pedal and see how that goes.
If not looks like she will be back up on stands
I just get under the gear box and drop it onto my guts there not very heavy, i just need a mate or 2 to push it forward as i lift it back into position lol.
I think ill undo my exhaust flange and kooler piping this time so the motor can rest closer to the fire wall. Extreamly hard to get it back in if it not.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Yeh just went and had a look at the pedal setup again.
Because theres wear in the pin and at the top bush of the pedal im geting like 20-30mm play before it accually starts to opperate the master cylinder.
Ive pulled the pedal out and making a new bush for it now also Ive got a less worn pedal and pin to go back in, Im also going to make up a new stronger adjustable rod from pedal to master cylinder.
I think this may have been the problem well hopfully fingers crossed
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
there is an easy fix for your problem. on your slave cylinder theres a small metal rod that pushes the clutch fork(there wil lbe a rubber boot around it), make up a longer one and youll be fine. its easy to change, no need to pull the box out.
you should make up a few different length pins so u can play around with the pedal height.
yeh I did try that before installing the blue bird slave cylinder, but it didnt seem to help much.
I seem to think its wear in the pedal, im reconditioning all the parts and making up a adjustable rod for the pedal to master to take up and slack that may still be in the pedal.
Ive just welded a long nut onto the original bracket i cut of the original rod and ive rounded a bolts head to use as the rod.
But ill play around with the slave rod again if all of what im doing has no effect
It is possible to adjust the pivot point with the box still in the car, I did it with a big screwdriver/prybar, and 17mm(I think) spanner. Only problem is it doesn't keep it's position, with use it quite quickly went back to where it was before, needs the box taken out and a washer or 2 put beneath it. I've been having a bugger of a time with my clutch too, as there is no adjustment on the system anywhere. I also removed the clutch pushrod into the master cylinder and put a spacer between it and where it goes into the master cylinder, helped a bit but needs a bigger spacer I think.
Same problem with mine to. Mine was real bad regardless of whether the car was hot or cold. Some days it was fine, some days it was a bitch. It's still slightly notchy, but I haven't really looked further into it.
I made mine better by making a longer slave rod (10mm I think) and replacing the worn out pivot pin on the clutch pedal. It made a noticeable difference, but it's still not perfect yet.
You'd be surprised how worn out the pedal pin gets as well! Mine had worn at least half the diameter of the pin.
BTW, what oil do most people run in their gearboxes? I've been using Castrol VMX80 for a while.
Yeh my pin and pedal where worn quite a bit, i have a good 30mm travel before the rod started to push the master cylinder pedal.
I just finished the adjustable rod for the master cylinder, its got heaps of adjustment. Ill fit it tomorrow and post up how I go.
I run a penrite oil I dont think it was Sinthetic but ill cheak what it is tomorrow
cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by calisman
It is possible to adjust the pivot point with the box still in the car, I did it with a big screwdriver/prybar, and 17mm(I think) spanner. Only problem is it doesn't keep it's position, with use it quite quickly went back to where it was before, needs the box taken out and a washer or 2 put beneath it. I've been having a bugger of a time with my clutch too, as there is no adjustment on the system anywhere. I also removed the clutch pushrod into the master cylinder and put a spacer between it and where it goes into the master cylinder, helped a bit but needs a bigger spacer I think.
Im trying to imagin where u would need the big screwdriver?? Also i think its alot bigger then 17mm but i really cant remember.
Maybe u could slip half a washer or maybe a spring washer of some sort in there and tighten it back up??
I used the screwdriver to turn the pivot, kind of lever off the gap in the bellhousing and put the end of the screwdriver on the hex of the pivot, turn it bit by bit. Because the spanner can't turn through enough of an angle to get it on the next side of the pivot. I don't think you'd be able to get a half washer in there, you could try but I don't think it could be done...
