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Series 1 rb30 Turbo??

Started by _Calturb · 30 Apr 2008 · 36 replies

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_CalturbArchived member
I was speaking to someone today that said you can t piece somewhere near the oil pressure regulator, or something along those lines to do a turbo conversion. He knew of people doing it with an rb20 and claims it shouldnt be any different. I was told its only possible with an already bunged s2 block otherwise you would have to tap the s1 block, which would mean possible metal fillings getting in your motor etc. So can s1 be turbo'd without drilling the block? If so i will go ahead and turbo the motor already in my car, having trouble finding a healthy s2 motor. Ta.
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vlwagzArchived member
yeah im pretty sure you can.
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rbfrogArchived member
yer. t peice the oil pressure switch, thats for the oil feed. but u still need to drill in to the bottom of the block or the top of sump for the drain
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NicheArchived member
The oil filter is after the oil pump, you can T off from the oil pressure sender which is after the filter, not a good idea to T off from the pump as it would bypass the filter... If you are careful you can drill and tap the S1 block np, attention to detail and good clean up.
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_CalturbArchived member
kk T piece oil preasure sender, and drill sump for drain i think is the plan.
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Spool-UpArchived member
where are you going to source water from?
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Munro-Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Spool-Up where are you going to source water from? I would hope the radiator....
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rusty577Archived member
hmm Ive seen set ups like this on S1 engines and look extremly dodgy. Just drill and tap.
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Munro-Archived member
the series 1 coversions I have seen I ahve always wondered how bad the flow must be for them. I dont see how the oil flow and coolant flow can be good considering the big bow and bends you have in it and just the extra length of hosing. Get yourself a series 2 block and be done with it. Drill and tap u mite as well just build a new motor
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SHIZNTArchived member
Agreed... is it worth all the hasle when you can go to a wreckers, spend a couple of hundred dollars and grab yourself a complete S2 A6 motor...
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Spool-UpArchived member
you guys underestimate how easy it is to drill and tap. I agree with munro though about the flow issues youd wanna test the flow rate.
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rbfrogArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Munro- the series 1 coversions I have seen I ahve always wondered how bad the flow must be for them. I dont see how the oil flow and coolant flow can be good considering the big bow and bends you have in it and just the extra length of hosing. Get yourself a series 2 block and be done with it. Drill and tap u mite as well just build a new motor it doesnt afect it at all about the lenght of hose. heaps of cars from factory run their oil feed off the oil pressure swith. cosworth sierra, land cruiser. dont bother changing your motor to a series 2 block if it in perfect running order. and the water can come off the other side any way like normal, just not to the block
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Spool-UpArchived member
nah the extra length of hose will definitely effect the flow but it should still be fine.
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rbfrogArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Spool-Up nah the extra length of hose will definitely effect the flow but it should still be fine. it will not effect the flow at all. as long as the hose is not restrictive, meaning to small or kinkd. once the oil is flowing how is it going to affect the flow. its works just like an oil gallery in a block.
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Spool-UpArchived member
Dude I dont wanna argue about it but if you make the pipe longer then theres going to be a loss of flow unless you do something like increase the oil pressure. The decrease in flow will only be small because the increase in pipe length is small, nothing that should cause any problems but its still there ... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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rbfrogArchived member
first of all you say u aggree with munro when he says ''I have always wondered how bad the flow must be for them" than you say "you wana do a flow test first" and now your saying that "it is nothing that will cause any problems" which of your statements to you believe.
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Munro-Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by rbfrog first of all you say u aggree with munro when he says ''I have always wondered how bad the flow must be for them" than you say "you wana do a flow test first" and now your saying that "it is nothing that will cause any problems" which of your statements to you believe. Im not really sure how you can say that it wont have any effect. Poor water down a pipe that is flat. how easy is it? Then try and poor water that is bent up. Now tell me which one flows better/easier. Come on its simple physics here. No matter how much **** is discussed here its simple physics.....
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rbfrogArchived member
i cant believe your compairing this to pooring water in a bent up pipe, gravity some how wont allow it to cum out. thats why there is an water pump and oil pump. we are not reliying on gravity to flow water around our cooling system now are we. to end all this the answer to your question sleeprVLT is, yes there is no problems t-peicing it off your oil pressure switch. ive done it many of times. so stop telling him to go and get a series 2 block.
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NicheArchived member
The water flow issue can be easily addressed by making sure you have good difference pressure, so you want the inlet to the turbo to be close in terms of flow to the outlet of the pump and the turbo outlet to be close to the water pump inlet - given its the pump that delivers the differential, so look at the water flow diagram in the service manual and find the best take off points... edit: ooops correction, you do actually want the water to be cooled after it gets out the turbo, so dont forget to have the poor overworked radiator in the loop Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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Spool-UpArchived member
yeah they are talking about oil but you make the same point, the further away the turbo inlet is from the pump outlet, the more pressure loss your going to have and so less flow
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