Back to shop ↗
THE HOLDEN COMMODORE FORUM

HOLDCOM Community

Built around the cars. Kept alive by the people.

+ Start a discussion
Holden Commodores gathered at Holdcom
Forum Home›Technical help
Technical help

How to adapt the VT Master Cylinder to early model Commodores

Started by RB30-POWER · 13 Apr 2008 · 339 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts. View original archive ↗

RB30-POWERArchived member
How to adapt the VT Master Cylinder to early model Commodores. (Required when VT Twin Spot or Nissan 4 Spot Brakes are fitted.) The principle behind this is that the standard 1" master and booster from the early V8 and turbo models give a less then satisfactory pedal feel and stopping power. Using the below parts, you can achieve a massive improvement in braking power with less pedal effort required. It is highly recommended on the VT Twin Spot Caliper Upgrade and also the Nissan 4 Spot Caliper Upgrades. It is more or less a straight forward bolt up proposition, with just a few small, but important modifications. To do the following upgrade you will need the following. + VT Master Cylinder ($75 from wreckers) + VS Plastic Brake Booster from V6 models only ($75 from wreckers) + VS Master Cylinder Reservoir (purchase new from Holden about $10) (Part No. GM-VS21166) + 3 Brake line Adapters (Available from Cebco for under $50 delivered) (Only required on pre VR models) + Dot 4 or equivalent Brake Fluid Step 1. On the V6 VS plastic booster, unscrew the adjustable bolt in the end of the pushrod. Step 2. Cut the head from the adjustable bolt you just removed and put a small slit into the end of it with a hack saw, so you can use a straight blade screwdriver to screw it back into the pushrod on the booster. Note: You must cut the head of the adjustable bolt short enough so it can become level with the pushrod on the booster. Step 3. Screw the bolt back into the pushrod and use locktite to lock the thread on it. Note: Make sure its 100% level with the pushrod itself. The only reason we screw the bolt back into the pushrod is to stop the hollow push rod from collapsing, it may fatigue over time from it being hollow. The bolt will strengthen it. So please don't just leave it out. Step 4. Remove the VT Master Cylinder Reservoir with the small bolt on the side and fit the brand new VS Reservoir. Note: If your careful the seals in the bottom of the master cylinder will be fine and you can just push the VS reservoir into place without replacing the seals. We fit the VS reservoir so it sits level and can be filled properly, the VT item sits on an angle and prevents the master from holding the proper volume of fluid when used on early model commodores. Step 5. Screw in the line adapters with the copper washers supplied and torque up firmly. Step 6. Bolt the VT master cylinder to the VS booster. Step 7. Now you can bolt it into the car the same way as your removed your old setup and bleed the brakes, starting from the Rear Left, Rear Right, Front Left and finally Front Right. Note: The emergency brake light connector will plug straight on to the VT master cylinder. If you followed the above you should have achieved a greatly improved pedal feel and improved braking power. It is amazing how even the single diaphragm V6 VS unit give more power and assistance then the highly overrated double diaphragm steel unit from the early model V8 and Turbo vehicles. Article put together by RB30-POWER in 2005 Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
0 likes
ParanoidArchived member
Excellent thread! Well done. Can you adapt the VT booster?
0 likes
RB30-POWERArchived member
VT Booster has been done, but it requires custom fab work and welding, webpage somewhere on the net that shows whats involved.
0 likes
5spdvlArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Paranoid Can you adapt the VT booster? It requires a bracket to made to mount the booster correctly. Its quite an involved and lengthy process, probably not really owrth the effort. Great work again, RB30-POWER; I'm glad to see you've made it into a well presented technical article. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
0 likes
88 ChaserArchived member
Great article, why is there always something eles I have to do. I guess this would be on the list of must do now Ive ordered my new 6 pot ap racing calipers?
0 likes
FATPSIArchived member
awsome article, im about to do the vt conversion so this is perfect, are the adapters an off the shelf thing?if not do you have the specs on thread sizes etc
0 likes
ParanoidArchived member
Is there much difference in boost (VT vs. VS) ?
0 likes
RB30-POWERArchived member
www.cebcobrakes.com.au (http://www.cebcobrakes.com.au) have the line adapters.
0 likes
benjipsiArchived member
very top right up coming in handy already just e mailed cebco
0 likes
SteveArchived member
From looking at the pics there - it seems the Bracket holding the Master Cylinder onto the Strut tower is the NA 15/16 MC version. The bracket from the 1" MC version is different - a 'mirror image' of the NA bracket, due to the fact that the VLT/V8 booster is longer. Might be something to add to the Needed list for people that are upgrading from VLT/V8 1" Master cylinder setup.
0 likes
HardcorzArchived member
hey all, my old NA brake booster died so i just finished putting in a complete vt-vx booster & master. It fits with only a coupla mods, I had to mod the bracket, drill a hole in the rod for the pedal, and slightly panel beat under the booster. I might put some pics up later if anyone is interested. all up cost - $100 including fluid,master cyl & booster.
0 likes
Com_VCArchived member
Cant you get spacer aswell to suit the VS brake booster to the VT master cylinder. I think they are like $50? Oh by the way, the VS booster is only single diafram isnt it as opposed to the VT being twin diafram? Do you think this would cause any issues?
0 likes
RB30-POWERArchived member
the vt double diphragm unit will offer more assistance compared to the vs unit, yes, but it's not really going to cause an issue. yes, you can get a spacer if you want to spend extra and not mod the pushrod, but modifying it is hardly a chore if you have some basic tools available.
0 likes
Com_VCArchived member
Anyone know the thickness of the spacer? I can make one at work out of some alloy So basically with the VS booster you will just have to press the pedal a bit harder compared to the VT? I'll eventually be running the nissan 4 pot calipers and 2 pot rears. Not really a fan of the VT sliding calipers. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
0 likes
Com_VCArchived member
Spacer should be 10mm. Might make one tomorrow if I have some free time at work but your way is easier... Did you try anywhere else for the line adapters? Pirtek etc? $50 sounds a bit rich for 3 adapters made of brass... I guess another alternative would be to go the wreckers and grab the front two lines from a VR/VS and just use a line adapter for the rear. Pray the front lines fit though...
0 likes
HardcorzArchived member
i didnt use the line adapters, threads are the same, only the flaring is different, I have zero leaks, tightened up perfectly, u dont need them AFAIK
0 likes
5spdvlArchived member
Wouldn't trust it, but keep an eye on it mate just to be safe.
0 likes
calaisv8Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Hardcorz hey all, my old NA brake booster died so i just finished putting in a complete vt-vx booster & master. It fits with only a coupla mods, I had to mod the bracket, drill a hole in the rod for the pedal, and slightly panel beat under the booster. I might put some pics up later if anyone is interested. all up cost - $100 including fluid,master cyl & booster. hey champ could you post a couple pics? so what part of the panel did you have to beat so it fitted do you have a pic of that too lol cheers mate
0 likes
87calaisArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Com_VC Spacer should be 10mm. Might make one tomorrow if I have some free time at work but your way is easier... Did you try anywhere else for the line adapters? Pirtek etc? $50 sounds a bit rich for 3 adapters made of brass... I guess another alternative would be to go the wreckers and grab the front two lines from a VR/VS and just use a line adapter for the rear. Pray the front lines fit though... 10mm sounds way too thick for the spacer. Its been a couple of years since i did this conversion but i would guess that it would be around 3-4mm thick. Why would you go to the trouble of making one when you can make such a simple mod to the pushrod and the whole setup bolts up? No one else makes the line adapters, i tried Pirtek, Enzed, several other hydraulic companys we use through work, no one could supply them. Quote: Originally Posted by Hardcorz i didnt use the line adapters, threads are the same, only the flaring is different, I have zero leaks, tightened up perfectly, u dont need them AFAIK Thats crazy mate, flared tube fittings are designed to seal on the taper, you are relying on the end of the tube to seal. there is nowhere near enough surface area on the end of the tube to trust to seal. These are your brakes - the things that may mean the difference between life and death one day. Please use the correct fittings, for your own good and the good of other road users!
0 likes
Com_VCArchived member
I measured it up and it came to 10mm. Anyways i've decided to do the mod as it is described here as it looks more factory looking that way. Is there a tool available to reflare the lines to suit the VS/VT setup?
0 likes
Sign in or create an account to reply. New members are welcome—no purchase or old CT account needed.

Who’s online

0 members and 1 guest active in the last 15 minutes

No signed-in members active right now. Guests are welcome to browse.

Visitors Today41

22,301 threads, 271,302 posts and 2,611 images saved from CT

65.1% of indexed threads saved