Hey just wondering what a brand new bosch vl air flow meter is worth? I figured the part number on it 0280212008 was the vl and want to no if its worth selling. I noticed the aftermarket ones are selling for a hundred dollars would a new bosch one be worth more?

i'd say so. Aftermarket are usualy cheaper. I mean if they were more expensive, it would be stupid. y would u buy a non geniune part for more than the geniune part. lol

the auto electrician that fixed my vl about 3 years ago charged me 450 for a bosch one. that was the price of the part not including labour.

Wow thats expensive, oh well since ive got the ems Ive listed it up at .99c on ebay, I can assure u that its 100% new and if you want some photos of contacts etc ive got them as well. Heres the link. -ebay link removed. -SirGeo

they are 280 brand new

or $70 from the wreckers around here. I got like 4 spare sitting in my shed lol.

Yea im sure they are a very commonly brought item always a common solution to the 'help' threads on here is the contact areas corroding or them just plain and simple ****ting themselves.

yeah thats why u need to keep 3 or 4 spare in ur boot

$450! gorh! pretty sure one could walk out the back door of most wreckers

Quote: Originally Posted by DIXIE yeah thats why u need to keep 3 or 4 spare in ur boot Or maybe buy a microtech etc.

not that anyone really cares i bought an airbox with one attached for $15 haha!

ive got a brand new in box one for $250 delivered to your door mate, with free snickers bar

Ive got one was just asking what it was worth see above, its on ebay. I will chuck in a snickers bar for all ct members.

I dont know where you guys are buying them from for $450, but your getting ripped Bottom of the page, $185 genuine bosch http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.php?c=7

Quote: Originally Posted by burchenal I dont know where you guys are buying them from for $450, but your getting ripped Bottom of the page, $185 genuine bosch http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.php?c=7 Damn you!! that just totally ruined my plan to buy them off that site and sell them for $250 with free snickers bar you b**tard Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

no you just ruined your plan, half the ppl on here dont even know bout that site lol maybe if u done it with a free box of snickers bars?

Quote: Originally Posted by Spool-Up Damn you!! that just totally ruined my plan to buy them off that site and sell them for $250 with free snickers bar you b**tard Scamming fuck Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

The AFM is not really that un-reliable, its a very simple part *but* as it has an analog output the quality of the connection to the computer is so very important. Often the action of unplugging and pluggin in another is enough to wipe off some corrosion that improves the operation. There are lots of mechanics and 'engine repairers' who have a drawer full of AFMs. The trick with being responsible for diagnosis is to actually spend the time to put back the faulty part and see if the fault comes back with it, you can imagine the cries of '...a f.cking waste of time, of course the new one works.." come from commercial outfits. So far, on each and every occasion I have been involved in finding out if an AFM was faulty and swapped another, the fault changed and didnt come back when putting the so called faulty unit back. This led me to investigate all the failure mechanisms of the loom connectors, whats why I make a few posts about it now and then, so to refresh:- Electrical fault modes on older cars often come down to these:- a. Surface corrosion on the sliding spades inside the connectors b. Chlorine attack on the crimps inside the loom connectors c. Wire break in the loom between connectors letting moisture in which changes the resistance of the loom. All of the above seriously affect the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) circuit because the CTS does not have an amplifier, the ECU is totally dependent on seeing a clean and low resistance connection between the CTS and the ECU and *any* high resistance connection makes the ECU think the engine hasnt warmed up yet and that causes the classic high fuel consumption of most VLs. The AFM has an amplifier in its output and is less dependent on a good loom connection but it is still important especially that the AFM gets clean power and ground signals so the amplifier can operate correctly. Same as CTS goes for the O2 sensor but not nearly as important. The CAS is a fully digital output *but* it also needs a clean power and ground connection and in that respect the loom connection is almost as important as for the CTS and AFM. Cheers

Quote: Originally Posted by burchenal Scamming fuck Lighten up dude it was a joke! And niche mate you help me so much, seriosuly my car would have been on its way to the wreckers long ago if you didnt come on here with all your EFI knowledge, i actually half understand the EFI system now. Ive been wanting to ask you a question for ages, totally unrelated to this post but anyway, you always recommend that i check fuel pressure with a proper differential gauge that measure absolute fuel pressure, but i never fully understood the reason behind this, if you could enlighten me thatd be great because even the gregorys manual says to check the fuel pressure with a normal (whats it called? static?) gauge.

np, thanks, there is a lot of mystique about EFI that many people put about because they have a vested interest in making it hard, its really pretty straightforward though the ECU controls can get pretty sophisticated... Take a peek at this technical post re fuel pressure - ideally the injectors need a static pressure across the injector *but* the manfiold pressure changes so the regulator gets a feed from the manifold and raises the fuel pressure in comparison with atmosphere - the end result is the injectors see a constant pressure, rising rate regulators add a complication, more info here:- http://calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=115708 I actually have a couple of proper workshop differential gauges I'm considering selling, they are brand new and have a drag pointer so you can tell if your fuel pressure dropped during load - ie If you are not watching them, the extra pointer stays in position like a memory - you can move it back with the knob, will make a post in for sale later on, cheers edit: Forgot to add that most gauges are singled ended, they only comapre the pressure they read with atmosphere - which is mostly ok as the atmosphere is static unless you are in a plane. So you can get 'normal' gauges that read pressure with respect to atmosphere and can show say 40psi - that means its 40psi *above* atmospheric. Other gauges measure absolute which in that case would read 40+14.7 = 54.7 psi absolute - so if you were in space where there is a vacuum then your fuel pressure would read as 54.7 psi. To make life simple though the gauges read "relative" which means they assume the atmosphere is static at 14.7psi. The other type of gauge from "single ended" is differential - which just means it measures the "difference" between two pressures, for the injector its fuel rail pressure - manifold pressure and that is the really important issue for any performance motor - especially a turbo... The so called rising rate regulators add a complication, that and the misunderstanding and minimal info in a gregories can mislead what you see, gregories is not totally wrong just giving you only part of the picture - the pressure at at idle is a starting point and seeing it move up when you add load is good to know but again is not the whole story. edit: 2 Darm tyops