Hey people, I'm after some advice, I want to (like everyone else) dip into the 10s with around 300rwkw. I wanted to know what would be the smallest injector size I could go to achieve this. I also wanted to know, what combo would I use, like, what fuel pump, reg, rail, etc. Also, I wanted to know, would it be possible to achieve a 10 say at 30psi (?) with a standard ECU? I was thinking of installing a MAP sensor to rid the AFM ... any suggestions? Thanks guys.

Depending on what you want to spend probably the most cost effective ones would be series 4/5 RX7 13B turbo injectors. Rated at 550cc and good for around 380rwkw. You can adapt them to a standard fuel rail the same way as GTR ones by putting hosetails on them. I bought 8 of them a few weeks back for $300 delivered. Use a Bosch 044 pump and you may get away with a stock regulator if not something like a 1:1 Malpassi will do the job. The stock ECU won't work. If you were to go that way you'd need to get a Nistune one which is I'm pretty sure is fully programable so you'll be able to run the bigger injectors and stuff. I think they still run a AFM though.

Theres a set of 550cc injectors for sale on these forums atm

Thanks for the input guys. I don't mind getting a fuel reg and pumps.. Just which ones? 550cc and an 044 fuel pump? Reason why I like the stock ECU is the fact if I change something like intake mod, airfilter, etc. I don't have to reprogram etc.

Quote: Originally Posted by Paranoid Thanks for the input guys. I don't mind getting a fuel reg and pumps.. Just which ones? 550cc and an 044 fuel pump? Reason why I like the stock ECU is the fact if I change something like intake mod, airfilter, etc. I don't have to reprogram etc. an AFM will read extra airflow for small mods and add fuel for the extra flow of air, a MAP sensor wont as it only measure pressure/vac not air flow. i know of someone running around 400rwhp off a nistune chipped NA ecu running 700cc injectors and a 4" AFM off ia toyota i think

Yeah definitely need either a larger AFM or can use the original AFM inside a larger pipe so the stock AFM reads part of the flow, then get this cal'd by a log shift in the AFM map, though it might be easier to get a standard but much larger AFM with some known parameters to fit into the nistune edits of the ECU tables etc...

Use a Z32 AFM, good for around 300rwkw set up as a draw through like the std vlt afm.

Would it be possible to run a MAP sensor with stock ECU or impossible? I also wanted to know, would 550cc (red top rx7) injectors be enough for 30PSI ? With injectors like theVLguy's mate (700cc) would I find that at low rpm or idle it would not perform as well? What I mean is; by having a rather large injector would it be able to cope when I'm 'pussy-footing' ? Also, what PSI can the Z32 AFM handle?

you'd be better off getting aftermarket ECU. get it done in the glovebox or some where els with a alt. wireing so if need you can chop and change with epa problems, dumie up a AFM for it too, if your really stressed about getting done. injectors for 300RWKWs 550cc should be safe and fine 044 pump is good too. people have had GTR injectors up too 300RWKW which i think are rated are 440cc but iv heard there runnnig at a high cycle rate, so 550cc should work well, with aftermarket ecu you should be fine

Quote: Originally Posted by Paranoid Would it be possible to run a MAP sensor with stock ECU or impossible? I also wanted to know, would 550cc (red top rx7) injectors be enough for 30PSI ? With injectors like theVLguy's mate (700cc) would I find that at low rpm or idle it would not perform as well? What I mean is; by having a rather large injector would it be able to cope when I'm 'pussy-footing' ? Also, what PSI can the Z32 AFM handle? taking your questions in sequence:- 1. no - unless you get a convertor that takes the MAP and spits out an AFM signal. 2. PSI has to do with pressure not flow, if you want high pressure *and* hi flow then 550cc may not be but it depends on your intake 3. Probably at idle or just above but shouldnt stop you taking it 'normal', there are ways around the idle issues anyway - just fix a injector upstream and give it a (low) fixed pulse selected for an idle +-10% and trim the maps for the 700cc injectors appropriately. 4. AFM does not need to know pressure, if your intake needs 30 psi of boost to get the flow you need and its below the max setting of the AFM then no problem but if your intake flows a lot - even at 20psi you might be over the AFM max but I doubt it. Pressure doest necessarily equate to flow, this is why with MAP you need to be prepared for a lot of tuning, not so with AFM...

Quote: Originally Posted by Niche Pressure doest necessarily equate to flow, this is why with MAP you need to be prepared for a lot of tuning, not so with AFM... This is why I want to keep an AFM. The reason why I say PSI is I don't want the mesh/internals of the AFM to get sucked into my turbo. And I'm overshooting saying 30PSI just to be safe. So, with a stock ECU, Nistune chip, Z32 AFM, 550cc injectors, and a whole lot of other modifications, a 10second pass / 300rwkw / 400rwhp is doable? Niche, what do you mean by high pressure and hi flow? AFM before/after turbo ?

If you are going for ultimate power and prepared to throw the dollars at it then go MAP but be prepared for tuning it each time you change anything, though you can get by with minor mods, anything that changes pressure drop will be an issue. You can often take the mesh out of the AFM's - not sure about the Z32 specifically but should be possible. Very unlikely it would be sucked in, at worst you have 14.7psi drop - AFM's can handle that no problem. I'm not sure about your 10sec pass - others would have more info. re your last sentence, AFM only measures flow and doesnt care what pressure the turbo puts out the AFM is designed specifically to measure mass flow and takes many things into account, common and safest place is before turbo - in that place you will very unlikely get reverse pulses if you go a wilder cam. If after Turbo then thats ok provided you dont moount it on engine and have it just after IC so it wont overheat but you might have an issue if you have a wild cam, reverse pulses make the AFM think there is flow when there aint... If you have a bad intake then the AFM could read quite low (due to low real flow) but your boost might be high - this is an indication of restrictions. On the other hand you could have lowish boost yet have a good intake with hi flow which the AFM will measure and it 'might' be more than it can handle, other than a case of suck it and see (pun) others might comment,

How can you tell if the mesh can be removed? Is there a physical indication?

on the vl/vlt units there is a large circlip, just lever it out with a small screwdriver. Factory usually allow some easy method of removal to inspect/clean the wire...

i have a set of 444cc gtr injectors for sale $200 and a adaptronic ecu for $400 aid it does not use a air flow meter it comes with a full loom ready to plug in just needs cleaning up.