HI i live in new zealand and are going to come over and buy a VL turbo ,i need to know a sure fire way off telling im buying the genuine article ,the tags or plates on fire wall mean nothing i got told can be swapped onto a N/A shell so can anyone help me here ?
WIll travel to VIC or NSW to buy gen car does anyone know off anyone that i can ring to check out any genuine cars out i obvisily will be paying person that helps me out ,someone thats well knowin and has reuputable name by anyone, and any good cars worth checking out stock or enhanced correctly be paying 5k to 15k ,please pm with any details thanks
http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...&highlight=VIN (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=18183&highlight=VIN)
Put the VIN number in the there.
Edit: Oh, I just read your post properly. Compare the build plate's VIN number on the firewall to the VIN number stamped into the top of the passenger side strut tower. If they're the same, the build plates have not been changed.
anoter thing to keep an eye out for. non-turbo motors will have an engine number ending 'a6' and motors that have an engine number ending in 'a8' are factory turbo motors. hope this helps you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by omgbt1
might be a dumb Q, but how would u know if the block or motor is still the same as when it left the factory?
check the comp
turbo 7.8:1
n/a 9.0:1
Quote:
Originally Posted by JET-086
check the comp
turbo 7.8:1
n/a 9.0:1
na like i mean cos there is a no. on the block, regardless of turbo or not, how would u know it's still the original engine and not a different engine, do u match the block no. to the id plates or do u find out through vic roads if it's had a different engine put in?
Compare the engine number to the engine number on the build plates and registration papers. That will ensure it is the same BLOCK it left the factory with. As stated, turbo block numbers end in "A8", whereas N/A block numbers end in "A6". The difference is that turbo motors have lower compression (7.8:1) due to differing pistons (not stronger, just a different shaped crown). N/A motors run 9.0:1 compression.
Turbo motors also run a larger volume oil pump.
To check if motor internals have been changed, you could perform a compression test, but the best way is to disassemble the motor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
Compare the engine number to the engine number on the build plates and registration papers. That will ensure it is the same BLOCK it left the factory with. As stated, turbo block numbers end in "A8", whereas N/A block numbers end in "A6". The difference is that turbo motors have lower compression (7.8:1) due to differing pistons (not stronger, just a different shaped crown). N/A motors run 9.0:1 compression.
Turbo motors also run a larger volume oil pump.
To check if motor internals have been changed, you could perform a compression test, but the best way is to disassemble the motor.
thanks very much
Quote:
Originally Posted by JET-086
you can do a REVS check too
i think thats only done in sydney tho, but in vic roads they call it a VIP n u pay like $20 or so
Quote:
Originally Posted by omgbt1
i think thats only done in sydney tho, but in vic roads they call it a VIP n u pay like $20 or so
you can call vic roads on 131171 and do a check on the vehicle for free, you will need to have the rego number, vin number and engine number this should verify for you if the car has matching numbers, stolen or under finance. however you can pay for a certificate that states the vehicle has a clear title from memory they were $17.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
Compare the engine number to the engine number on the build plates and registration papers. That will ensure it is the same BLOCK it left the factory with. As stated, turbo block numbers end in "A8", whereas N/A block numbers end in "A6". The difference is that turbo motors have lower compression (7.8:1) due to differing pistons (not stronger, just a different shaped crown). N/A motors run 9.0:1 compression.
Sorry, can you direct me to where the engine number is on the build plates?
Also, an engine number can be easily changed at vicroads, so checking registration papers doesn't necessarily mean that it has the same motor in it, in which it came from the factory with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
Compare the engine number to the engine number on the build plates and registration papers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
Compare the build plate's VIN number on the firewall to the VIN number stamped into the top of the passenger side strut tower. If they're the same, the build plates have not been changed.
you dont know what your on about mate so stop posting. the engine number isnt on the tags, and the VIN isnt stamped onto the strut tower
Quote:
Originally Posted by REALIST
you dont know what your on about mate so stop posting.
the 1st one he was rong with,, but the 2st one hes right,, the number on the passenger side strut tower has same number as 1 of the tags doesnt it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by freEze_dK
the 1st one he was rong with,, but the 2st one hes right,, the number on the passenger side strut tower has same number as 1 of the tags doesnt it?
but it aint the vin, its the chassis number. please correct me if im wrong thou
Quote:
Originally Posted by REALIST
but it aint the vin, its the chassis number. please correct me if im wrong thou
Yeah you're correct, the AVL... number is the chassis number
One other thing to also to notice is the master cylinder and brake booster,
The large majority of converted VLT's I see on ebay and on here I can tell if the car has been converted or not,
Majority dont replace the master cylinder and brake booster from the 15/16 NA version to the 1 inch VLT/V8 version.
It will have 15/16 writen on the top if its an NA,
The brackets are also different, in an NA version the bolts connecting it to the body are fully shown, with a VLT setup the bracket hides those bolts behind the bracket sort of thing... kinda hard to explain so ill put up photos maybe later on tonight.
Its not set in stone, but it will help you pick out the fakes on ebay and here alot better when you only have an engine bay shot,
Cheers,
Daz
HEY thanks guys for helpin me out so far the more info the better keep it coming if at all possible ,
hate to bring home a fake N/A be better to just bring in turbo motor and bits and peices and built one up if that was the case overall how many pepole that anyone out there knows has been sucked in and brought a fake is this problem common ?
thanks
neil
victtor
