Does anybody use this stuff anymore in their V8s? You dont seem to read about it much these days and I reckon it had potential for some added fun. What were the affects on spark plugs etc, costs, effects...

Quote: Originally Posted by Boyracer Does anybody use this stuff anymore in their V8s? Have you been to a dragstrip lately? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I kind of mean for a 5.0 road car,

i do-what would u like to know about it- Nick--

I was wondering how is it plumbed into an V8 efi donk, do you need speacial plugs or bits? what sort of power gain and prices for a mild kit please mate.

Quote: Originally Posted by Boyracer I kind of mean for a 5.0 road car, Theres a $10,000 fine if you're caught with it on the street (if thats what you meant). Once its set up on a car its free HP. A car can go from a 13 flat to an 11 second car. Beware of the inexperienced tuner however or youll end up grenading your motor. There are many different types of N2O set ups in terms of how its applied into the motor.

Quote: Originally Posted by Boyracer I was wondering how is it plumbed into an V8 efi donk, do you need speacial plugs or bits? what sort of power gain and prices for a mild kit please mate. their is so many efi types-theirs foggers before the throttle body-their is direct port in the runner of the inlet- i have a direct port-which is better imo-because- 1)it does not hit hard-which makes the sudden shock-load on parts more freindly 2)easier to tune-meaning if 7 cyclinders run the same and 1 is off u can change the jets to make all run the same- what engine and how much u thinking about spraying- n20 is very expensive to start off with-but saying that it offers the best return if done right and it is the only power adder which u can turn off- thats why i like it so much- timing is very important-,bottle pressure,placement,heater's,size of solinoids and lines if u need more info please ask- Nick

N20 is good stuff done right. Done wrong its a little nasty. From my experience a direct port for a non-built IE standard motor aint so good. Im only basing this on an LS1 so it may not count but I had a direct port setup with a fast 90mm manifold which is basically designed for that sort of this with the nitrous bosses built into the manifold from factory. Every time we hit the giggle gas while watching the AFR's with the direct port it would spike lean 17 or 18 to 1 then come good. Not a drama on a forged motor but will melt stocky pistons. We consulted with ZEX about why it did this and they came up with that the Pressure of the NO2 getting injected was actually cutting the fuel stream from the nos fuel nozzle in half and not mixing correctly as the fuel pressure is 60 odd psi and the nos is 900 odd. So the N02 was hitting the cylinder before the extra fuel. In the end they said to inject the fuel directly either buy using the nozzles or normal injectors and inject the nos before the T/B, on a non built motor so the fuel and nos came on safer so to speak. I never went ahead with it and sold the No2 kit. What do you think Nick sound silly to you? We just couldnt get it safe enough for a non-built motor.

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT N20 is good stuff done right. Done wrong its a little nasty. From my experience a direct port for a non-built IE standard motor aint so good. Im only basing this on an LS1 so it may not count but I had a direct port setup with a fast 90mm manifold which is basically designed for that sort of this with the nitrous bosses built into the manifold from factory. Every time we hit the giggle gas while watching the AFR's with the direct port it would spike lean 17 or 18 to 1 then come good. Not a drama on a forged motor but will melt stocky pistons. We consulted with ZEX about why it did this and they came up with that the Pressure of the NO2 getting injected was actually cutting the fuel stream from the nos fuel nozzle in half and not mixing correctly as the fuel pressure is 60 odd psi and the nos is 900 odd. So the N02 was hitting the cylinder before the extra fuel. In the end they said to inject the fuel directly either buy using the nozzles or normal injectors and inject the nos before the T/B, on a non built motor so the fuel and nos came on safer so to speak. I never went ahead with it and sold the No2 kit. What do you think Nick sound silly to you? We just couldnt get it safe enough for a non-built motor. ahmm-well i dont understand why u had that kind of problem- i also based my judgement on a ls1 as thats all that i have worked on and use n20 on- i have use my bottle up 8 times from nov 07 till now and i slam 175hp all the time- i see afr in n/a at wot 12.8-12.9 thats with my fast wideband and i have 11.9-12.0 with the juice on - i have used 8 bottles and the plugs look like new still-standard short+standard rings- i have seen over 397 rwkw with the juice on- from memory we took out 6- or 8 degree's of timing to be safe-zex said 6-i said 8 to be safe- i am stepping it up to the 225hp jets in a week or so- i also used the fast 90 and holley 90 t/b-and the zex direct port kit- i have seen many n2o setups and i reckon direct port is the best-because each cyclinder as the right amount hp jets which makes it a smootherdelievery- yes-a single fogger before the t/b hits hard and really changes the note of the engine because it is looking for the cyclinder that is open and then the next and so on-i dont like that because it's hard on parts- duke-thats very lean-what was the fuel and n20 size jets-was it under fueled?did u have a heater on it- or was your bottle pressure very high-which would cause it to run lean because the n20 becomes to thin to be used- i would be interested to hear your thoughts- i am currently building a dedicated n20 ls motor to take 150 on the 1st stage and 250 on the 2nd stage and we reckon we will be just right with good internals and right jets- i would advise anyone thinking of doing n20-first thing on the list would be fuel supply wether u only hitting 10 hp-lean is the worst enemy in a n20 system -i would rather be over-riched- i would say on aussie v8 with at least a bigger fuel pump and a fuel reg- i would hit between 0-50 without taking any timing out and 2 degree's per 50hp onwards- also spark plugs and gapping play a big role- If anyone as anymore ? feel free to ask- also duke what efi program did u or someone tune it with-i used efi live because it has n20 options-example-as soon has i hit the arm button it goes into a n20 mode and takes 6 degrees of timing out straight away-wether or not i use it-so if it was to good lean which it would not it would be okay Nick- duke did u have a purge on it-that could also explain the lean factor Nick-- Quote: Originally Posted by Boyracer I was wondering how is it plumbed into an V8 efi donk, do you need speacial plugs or bits? what sort of power gain and prices for a mild kit please mate. ethier way u will have to drill and tap wether u want it in the ports or 1 fogger before or after the t/b or a plate if u running 1 of those carb t/b style things- u can get kits from $450.00 to $2500.00 for 1 stage and so on- i would say $1000.00 labour tops to get a pro to do it or nothing if u done it yourself on a basic system- it really depends what hp u want and also how much u want to hit and also the weight of the car- basic kits imo are maintence free-pro kits need a lot of checking and maintence to make the system work to it full potentional- to give u a idea a pro kit cost about $10,000 -ONLY FOR A RACE CAR AND TRACK USE- 400hp per stage and usualy in 3 stages so about 1200hp worth of n20- Nick

Nick - great read, very informative!

Nothing wrong with nitrous when tuned correctly. It is such easy horsepower and relatively cheap. As far as it being used on holden V8s, there are a few guys running 8s with relatively small shots. The quickest is 8.7 in a 355 LJ, using a 275hp shot. I'm in the process of building a tunnel rammed nitrous 355 and will be setup for the street as well. The same setup in a 1500kg+ VK Director, but using only a single carb and nitrous plate, ran 9.3 with only a 150hp shot. Mine will be lighter and be running direct port, so i'm hoping for very good times (fingers crossed ) . I was going to go turbo, but i chose nitrous due to the cost. For around $1200 my car will go from a low 10sec NA vehicle, to a (potentially) low 9/high 8s car. Set it up properly on an injected 5L, and it is cheap, easy power and torque. I say do it Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

whats done to your car to make it a 10sec car before the nitrous?

Large solid roller cam, high comp and twin carbs. The setup on pump fuel will be around 600hp which equates to low 10s. But the convertor i'm using is for nitrous, so without the gas the car won't run as well as if it had a convertor suited to an NA setup.

Quote: Originally Posted by cwreck ahmm-well i dont understand why u had that kind of problem- i also based my judgement on a ls1 as thats all that i have worked on and use n20 on- i have use my bottle up 8 times from nov 07 till now and i slam 175hp all the time- i see afr in n/a at wot 12.8-12.9 thats with my fast wideband and i have 11.9-12.0 with the juice on - i have used 8 bottles and the plugs look like new still-standard short+standard rings- i have seen over 397 rwkw with the juice on- from memory we took out 6- or 8 degree's of timing to be safe-zex said 6-i said 8 to be safe- i am stepping it up to the 225hp jets in a week or so- i also used the fast 90 and holley 90 t/b-and the zex direct port kit- i have seen many n2o setups and i reckon direct port is the best-because each cyclinder as the right amount hp jets which makes it a smootherdelievery- yes-a single fogger before the t/b hits hard and really changes the note of the engine because it is looking for the cyclinder that is open and then the next and so on-i dont like that because it's hard on parts- duke-thats very lean-what was the fuel and n20 size jets-was it under fueled?did u have a heater on it- or was your bottle pressure very high-which would cause it to run lean because the n20 becomes to thin to be used- i would be interested to hear your thoughts- i am currently building a dedicated n20 ls motor to take 150 on the 1st stage and 250 on the 2nd stage and we reckon we will be just right with good internals and right jets- also duke what efi program did u or someone tune it with-i used efi live because it has n20 options-example-as soon has i hit the arm button it goes into a n20 mode and takes 6 degrees of timing out straight away-wether or not i use it-so if it was to good lean which it would not it would be okay Nick- duke did u have a purge on it-that could also explain the lean factor Nick-- Nick Yeah tuned using EFI live, and it wasnt me. I trust those sorts of things to professionals I only dabble in tuning LS1's more for the fun and what you learn about your car. For the life of me I cant remember what jet and fuel size it was 3years back now, it was originally a 100 shot then we bumped it up to a 150 or 175 or something. It had a purge kit and bottle warmer and i think it was about 900-950psi for the bottle. We ended up going larger in the fuel jets and, I was toying with the idea of using a electronic timer to delay the N02 just slightly.. It looked good on paper but i never got round to doing it and sold it off. Yeah WOT AFR without the gas are about 12.5 12.7 to 1 and on the gas was about 11.5. I used plugs with a heat range of 7 and gapped them down. Zex also told us 6 degress but we did the same as you and pulled 8 out of it, so i think a total timing was 15-16 degress.... going bigger in the fuel helped, but it still used to spike lean. It was only for a real short time, it was just on activation it would shoot up and then work perfect all the way till 6700rpm. I logged it a few times, If i can find it I will email it to you. I didnt want to push it to far on a stocky motor so pulled it off with plans of re fitting it later on to a forged motor and really upping it, then a bloke gave me an offer I couldnt refuse and it headed of to W.A to go into a ute. I wouldnt hesitate using it again, it was a good thing. Only problem I was forever using bottles. In hindsight it probably wouldn't of hurt the motor but it was my daily driver and I didnt have the cash laying around to slot a new motor together if i fried it.

im a nitrous junkie NITROUS LITTLE IS GOOD BUT MORE IS BETTER

amateurs dont use nitrous oxide

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT Yeah tuned using EFI live, and it wasnt me. I trust those sorts of things to professionals I only dabble in tuning LS1's more for the fun and what you learn about your car. For the life of me I cant remember what jet and fuel size it was 3years back now, it was originally a 100 shot then we bumped it up to a 150 or 175 or something. It had a purge kit and bottle warmer and i think it was about 900-950psi for the bottle. We ended up going larger in the fuel jets and, I was toying with the idea of using a electronic timer to delay the N02 just slightly.. It looked good on paper but i never got round to doing it and sold it off. Yeah WOT AFR without the gas are about 12.5 12.7 to 1 and on the gas was about 11.5. I used plugs with a heat range of 7 and gapped them down. Zex also told us 6 degress but we did the same as you and pulled 8 out of it, so i think a total timing was 15-16 degress.... going bigger in the fuel helped, but it still used to spike lean. It was only for a real short time, it was just on activation it would shoot up and then work perfect all the way till 6700rpm. I logged it a few times, If i can find it I will email it to you. I didnt want to push it to far on a stocky motor so pulled it off with plans of re fitting it later on to a forged motor and really upping it, then a bloke gave me an offer I couldnt refuse and it headed of to W.A to go into a ute. I wouldnt hesitate using it again, it was a good thing. Only problem I was forever using bottles. In hindsight it probably wouldn't of hurt the motor but it was my daily driver and I didnt have the cash laying around to slot a new motor together if i fried it. duke-for sure-if u email it to me it would be a good read as i have efi live and i will read through it- well-everything u said looks good on paper-u done it the right way-if it only spike lean at the start thats okay-but if it stayed lean all the way i would be worried- mine also spikes lean everytime i put a new bottle in- i base that on-1.i dont have a purge which 2.causes to have air in the lines until i blow it out of the system- i did not bother having a purge because it was only small hit's-150-175 and the bottle heater would not let it go higher then 950-980 psi-so its done me fine until now- i am putting 1 on this week has i feel now i have to get everything right and get all the air out as i am dealing with a 225hp shot-which in laymens terms starting to get their on a standard street engine- i am pretty sure it will live through a few more bottles before it brakes a ringland or stretches a rod bolt or too-it has too-theirs no way it can take that hp for a long term- if it holds on to a 225 hp i will up it to the full range of 300 hp to see if a standard 5.7 will take-if it does i will be very happy-if not i will slip in the new engine- yes-bottles in and out--costly-but i still like it because has i stated before it is the only power adder u can turn off-so if u dont use it it wont cost and if u do well bad luck u pay-- Nick-

All I can say nick is GIVE IT TO IT... haha you got more balls than me bud.

Quote: Originally Posted by Duke57TT All I can say nick is GIVE IT TO IT... haha you got more balls than me bud. Thanks-i got no balls-the wife has taken them -na- i am doing this as a trial and error-its expensive but i got a couple projects to do for some customers who have seen my setup and are willing to go the n20 route-so in a way i can't really loose out-while the customer can see how it works without their car being used as a test mule as i feel some shops like to do that- so its a win win for both parties-so everyone will know how much it can take and for how long- By all means i am no n20 guru-i am only sharing what i have been told and showed-thanks steth--- see how u go with that file-i will really like to see the data-as that will help me a lot- if i am out of line asking for the file please inform me as i don't get offended quickly- Nick--

If anyone has queries regarding nitrous, you can call my work (Rocket Industries) and ask for Mark Hayes. He is a guru with nitrous setups as we all know with his own car and the rest of the quick nitrous cars in Oz and he is extremely helpful and informative.