hey fellas ive been thinking about putting an LS1 into a vr/vs for a while now and i have found a unrepairable vy ss for $2.5k, now theirs a few things 1 want to know,
will i just be able to use the loom from the ls1 or does it need to be modified?
Street Commodores pretty much explains everything...
You can buy modified LS1 engine looms to suit VR-VS or pre Gen III Commodores off some company, its like 800 buks i think...
I'll find out the site for you soon...
Also, do you know you'll need a lot of other things to get it fitting in nice and running?
You will need:
*LS1 - complete with all accessories
*T56 or auto of your choice
*complete LS1 engine harness and ECU
*CRS engine mount adapter plates
*CRS engine mount rubbers
*CRS starter motor relocation kit
*Transmission cross member
*Rip shifter, so the shifter is in the right location
*Braided line for the clutch
*VN V8 K frame if converting from V6
*Custom tailshaft
*CRS headers, or custom
*New exhaust
*Gen 3 high pressure power steering line (fits with a little modification at rack end)
*Modify your standard vn power steering return line.
*Have LS1 engine harness wired in to work with VN body harness
*Connect water temp, tacho and speedo
*Make a returnless fuel system with adjustable reg at 400kpa
*Have LS1 computer modified to remove antitheift features (so it starts without BCM/PIM)
*A standard vn radiator is fine, custom hoses to join to LS1
*LS1 heater tap and hoses, modified to fit to VN heater core
*Make a return system for power steering, using a oil cooler.
*You will need to either fabricate a hydraulic clutch pedal box, find a VS series 3 pedal box, or convert it to cable
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsaray
hey fellas ive been thinking about putting an LS1 into a vr/vs for a while now and i have found a unrepairable vy ss for $2.5k, now theirs a few things 1 want to know,
will i just be able to use the loom from the ls1 or does it need to be modified?
Hey bloke if i was you i would pay a visit to www.ls1.com.au (http://www.ls1.com.au)
Few questions for you....
Do you plan to use the factory computer out of the VY? its probably the way to go but you will need a someone with the ability to delete the BCM part of the software so that it will run without it. Unless you can modify the BCM module to work with the VR/VS stuff central locking and the like.
The factory loom is long enough for you to remotely mount the ecu inside the dash somewhere.
I think also there was a couple of guys that had done it around the traps. One was VN which first had a carby setup and then went injected. It was a pretty potent car with 4.11's and 3800rpm stallie. I think it ran 11's bolt on.
Sounds like fun to me.
WHAT HE SAID ^^^^^
To answer your question about if you needed to modify the LS1 loom, yes you do...
castle auto electrics do an engine loom for them...modified and ready to plug in with then VR-VS body loom...
If I was you, because you have to have the anti-theft removed from the LS1 ECU, you might as well have the loom midified by the same people to suit your body loom, it should work out cheaper all up than buying an already modified LS1 loom...
You'll probably won't have a lot of change from about 7grand at the end of the conversion...
It's all the little things that seem to hurt the money tree, like for instance...
I think its about a grand for headers, about 800 buks for the starter motor relocation kit(includes starter motor), getting all the wiring and stuff done to get it all running good...
You'll have to notch the VR V8 K-frame to clear the LS1 sump...
Just a little advice, do as much things as possible yourself, do your research, and shop around...
ive been looking into this for about 6 months and also looking for a wreck and i have found one, ive got 10k to spend on it excluding the wreck, i will be doing most of it my self, apart from the headers, exhaust & manifold, the parts i already have are
LS1 Engine Complete
T56
Engine Loom
LS1 ECU
CRS Engine Mounts
CRS Engine Mount Adapter Plates
CRS starter Motor Relocation Kit
Custom tailshaft
i still need a **** load of other things but all in time, im picking up the wreck tom, should be fun, i should get it all up and running in about 6 months
should be interesting-
JOEKA -explain to me why the rip shifter will make it line up in the right location- i thought it was to make from going 2nd to 3rd nice and easy as everyone grab's 5 th-
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwreck
should be interesting-
JOEKA -explain to me why the rip shifter will make it line up in the right location- i thought it was to make from going 2nd to 3rd nice and easy as everyone grab's 5 th-
that is true but the bend the shifter itself has in the rip shifter package might help as the standard t56 one is pretty much straight. i have not seen where they line up to confirm on this
FYI the rip shifter comes out in exactly the same position... the bend in the GMM Rip shift is there because the Ripshift is fitted directly into the shift rail where as the stock POS has a bridge connector from the pivot to the shifter.... Really your best off getting the rip shift anyhow..... its chalk and cheese... I've also had the stock shifter with the Harrop shifter mod... it helps out but its not as good as the Ripshift.... Never missed a gear...
As for the LS1 conversion.... I can' see it being much different to a VL..... Which is really not too bad.... however do yourself a favour and perhaps get a set of custom headers made.... we had to redo half of the CRS ones.. I don't think they are made to suit power steer...Perhaps CRS has rectified this now?
G/L with your project
costs heaps, dont expect to much change out of 15k, CAE extractors are junk and all adaptors are only just. Mal wood now makes a starter relocation kit which is alot nicer than the rod shops. and he also has plenty of the genuine holden hydraulic clutch setups aswell. also wiring gets bit tricky if u want level 3 dash functions and air conditioning. is it worth it- hell yes.