hi all just wondering if anybody knows the build date for the first ls1 was it in the vs 215i or vt ss? and what yr much appreciated cheers

VT SS series 2, pretty sure mid-late 1999 were the first LS1. The VS GTS 215i is an aussie motor with a stroker crank etc.

Quote: Originally Posted by AlmightyVL VT SS series 2, pretty sure mid-late 1999 were the first LS1. The VS GTS 215i is an aussie motor with a stroker crank etc. pretty spot on there i'd say

Third the motion, but wasn't just SS was it?? I thought it was all VT series two across the board.

Yes, standard exec plus other models also had the ls1, not just the ss model.

true that, yeh VT SII was the first available with Gen III

All VT SII v8's were ls1..unless of course someone has whacked a 304 in it :-S

were there many problems with it being the first of the ls1's

Quote: Originally Posted by FRCFED were there many problems with it being the first of the ls1's lot of ring problems-which cause oil problems-rod bolt problems-a bit of knock etc etc- why u ask? what do u want to do-

Quote: Originally Posted by cwreck lot of ring problems-which cause oil problems-rod bolt problems-a bit of knock etc etc- why u ask? what do u want to do- Problems are whats listed above, but most of the LS1 engines were replaced within warranty so there should be little to no problems. If ur going to buy a 1999 Vt ss series 2 with the ls1 just ask if its been replaced if it hasn't ask lots of questions and listen to it carefully, try to make sure its a cold start up as you will hear the knocking or piston slap easier.

I have a Jan 2000 build VTII exec gen3 (9C1 pack) and according to the books had the pistons replaced as a warranty issue. I think most ex-government cars will have had it done which is handy.

Quote: Originally Posted by CHAYSR I have a Jan 2000 build VTII exec gen3 (9C1 pack) and according to the books had the pistons replaced as a warranty issue. I think most ex-government cars will have had it done which is handy. I'm back in the market looking for a VT S2 LS1 again. Wanna sell yours?? pm me a price if u do. Yeah my old car was the same 9C1 VT SS series 2, had the pistons/rings replaced at 10,000kms and again at 60,000kms. Diff needed an additive to it to stop the axel tramp and diff whine.

just looking into a 5.7 now. car im lookn at has bout 140 on the clock. anything else i should look out for? just soo tempting but dont wanna jump into anything too quickly and might regret it thats all

I wrote this for a mate a few months ago he was looking at a VX S1 Berlina LS1. It might help.... I have a VX SS S2 2002. It has some gudgeon pin issues/piston slap sounds as well as lifter noise. Doesnt help that It has been reved to 7200rpm either. Motor is only 70,000kms odd old. Just because holden rebuilt it doesnt mean they did a good job. So check it carefully. Anyway on to things to check for. 1) Start car from cold and let idle up to operating pressure. While it is doing so listen for "piston slap". Will sound like a knack knack kind of sound. Also just generally listen for any other suspicious noises from the valvetrain. They are a naturally noisy motor because they are aluminium which conducts sound better. 2) Look through service book and check for oil consumtion issues. Ask dealer has the car had any issues or does it have any? If they say no get it in writing and ask will it be covered under warranty if it proves to be using to much oil. 3) Check for play in the CV joints out of the diff and check the centre bearing in the tailshaft. Easiest way to check is to go from reverse to forward gear nad listen for any metallic clangs. You can do this by holding foot on the brake while changeing gears and listening but it is also beneficial to let the vehicle roll forward and back to let the gear sets load and unload. This should highlight any play in the driveshafts. If your still not sure there is the old jump underneath the car and give the driveshafts a twist and riggle and check for movement. This is a good indicator as to wheather the car has had much of a hiding. Also checking for remenants of rubber in the rear of the car like inside the rear bumper bar and on top of the rear resinator in the exhaust. People generally dont clean these places like they do the wheel arches. 4) Check auto gearbox for slip. Firstly at a "private road" put the vehicle in drive and hold your foot on the brake while giveing it some gas. You basically want to make sure that the car breaks into wheel spin as in doing a static burnout. You dont need to be a hero just make sure that the car will do it easily and that the torque converter doesnt slip to a ridiculous level before it breaks free. This is also a good time to tell if the Limited slip differential is working. It should leave to even black lines. Again no need to go mad. You dont want to wrecks the car before he gets it. The next thing is to useing wide open throttle again on a private road check for slip in the gear box especially between shifts and in gear. You need to check 1-2nd at WOT and 2-3rd at WOT. Keep in mind the 2nd-3rd shift in the auto will be around 140kp/h. Make sure your out of the way. The gearshifts should happen quickly and not slur into the next gear. If at any stage the revs flare up and then come back down this will indicate slip in either the converter or the bands in the box and its not a good thing. 5) Brake shudder. If while braking at any stage the steering wheel feels like it is pulsating in your hands the car needs new rotors and pads. 6) Check for excessive oil leaks under the car. The LS1 engine has problems with rear main seals leaking. The other areas are around the Rocker Covers and diff seals. 7) When starting the car hold the up arrow and mode for the display. This will put you into "police Spec mode/diagnostic mode". It gives you alot more options on the three window display. Look for the trouble codes and see if any are being displayed. Press the mode button until you see something like T00 or something and once there scroll through using the up and down arrows noting any codes.

very helpful thanx for that.... its coming from a private seller so not to sure. i will b gettin racv to get it checked. does anybody know what they check on exactly? and are the oil leaks expensive to get fixed cheers once again

i wouldnt be getting RACV to be checking it mate, get an LS1 specialist. Depending where the car is but there are a fair few in melbourne. GM motorsport, HP-F, APS in frankston, G&D performance. These are the main ones and the ones i would be getting to check out. RACV don't give a great report on the faults and problems an LS1 might have. Depending on the oil leak and the cause will determine how much.

i had no idea there were ls1 specialists. are they expensive? do they do the same as a racv specialist would do?

Quote: Originally Posted by FRCFED i had no idea there were ls1 specialists. are they expensive? do they do the same as a racv specialist would do? About the same, maybe a little bit more expensive but they are very very good. Normally about a 4 page report maybe more on the problems, the way the car drives how it feels sounds reacts to the road. Ask the guy ur going to buy it off if u can take it for an inspection or if he can do it for you once again it depends where the car is situated. Being a series 2 vt ls1 i would be getting it checked out by one of the above workshops.

if their is so many things to go by when looking at a vt2 ls1 why just go to a vx 2 ls1-some better features+rear suspension- for a couple of thousand dollars more ????