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Increasing economy

Started by XXXVL vbmenu_register("postmenu_1656520", true); · 5 Dec 2007 · 19 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

Yo! What things can you improve on the N/A RB30 engine to increase the economy? It's 100% unmodified, and has over 300,000 kms. Do I just change sensors, and get my fuel system cleaned, etc? I get under 300kms per tank as it is (and I drive like a granny).
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why dont you just answer his question?
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Economy actually applies to turbo models too, best place is to search in the general, electrics and engine management, and guess what a most recent post including waffle I added is here - go Peek at it :- http://calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=124967 Believe it or not changing your fuserail is an economy measure as the old ones add resistance, dont hold engine management fuses tightly so they can vibrate and upset the ECU...
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2 words Hyundai Excel A vl is a medium/large car, with a 3 liter worn out motor, they are not economy cars. In saying that, there may be a problem with your car, as they should be getting over 500 kilometers to the full tank of fuel, i have yet to see more than 250 kilometers with mine, but yeah.
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You work out at the gym too hard MaD_WoG, suggest drive in bare feet and smear chile powder on the accel pedal Seriously - your Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) is by far the biggest reason and the loom connection for it can add resistance so your ECU always thinks the engine is cold...! I get 9.58L/100Kms country and about 11 to 12L/100Kms city and mines a VLT tired motor in an auto... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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its running very rich, and i cant figure it out niche, but i wont take over the thread.... with the cts, its independant to the water temp sender? if it is, i may change it and see how it goes i dont drive it hard.... well.... most of the time.... actually i only accelerate with 1/2 throttle and shift under 2500
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Yes its separate to the sender, my loom connector failed years ago and the fuel consumption went way up. The problem with using this type is - it relies on a very good connection to the ECU. When the engine gets up to operating temperature the CTS reistance goes down, so anything that causes the total circuit resistance from ecu to cts back to ecu to go up will definitely make the ecu think engine is still cold and that will make a big difference in fuel usage...
Photo 1 shared by Niche
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will a dodgey 02 sensor cause higher fuel consumption?
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Quote: Originally Posted by BADVLSL will a dodgey 02 sensor cause higher fuel consumption? Yes though not by nearly as much as a dodgey CTS, can you see the red/green lights on the ECU flash together - ie Take off left kick panel and watch them when you run engine at say 2000rpms when warmed up no load. Its more likely your cal screw on the AFM is set too rich, O2 sensors are pretty reliable unless your car has been on leaded petrol for a while, Suggest if n/a turn cal screw 4 turns clockwise, if turbo 1 to 2 turns but go back to old position if you notice engine temp go up a lot or if it doesnt accel smoothly,
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Quote: Originally Posted by jcs_87 search I usually do..how embarassing...meh. Thanks a million Niche. Once again your brilliant brain has saved me! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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my car used to run very rich and have poor fuel economy as the clutch fan was broken and wouldn't disengage when the car was cold, so it would run under temperature the entire time and use excessive amount of fuel. I just wanted to offer that as a different solution, as i too tried the usual CTS, O2, injectors, afm etc etc stuff before i discovered the fan to be the reason behind the poor fuel economy.
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ive got a solid fan lol
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cool..
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Quote: Originally Posted by Niche Yes though not by nearly as much as a dodgey CTS, can you see the red/green lights on the ECU flash together - ie Take off left kick panel and watch them when you run engine at say 2000rpms when warmed up no load. Its more likely your cal screw on the AFM is set too rich, O2 sensors are pretty reliable unless your car has been on leaded petrol for a while, Suggest if n/a turn cal screw 4 turns clockwise, if turbo 1 to 2 turns but go back to old position if you notice engine temp go up a lot or if it doesnt accel smoothly, you're a fk'n genius wtf man lol so saving all the crap u said in the other thread thanks Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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i get around 380-400kms out of a full tank, driving like a tool..., hard take offs, revin to 5k... and in an auto with a sh!tload of car audio lol
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ok what is the cal screw?? i think i have prety bad fuel acconomy i fill up and then i use about a quarter of a tank a day and i dont drive that far its just general cruising and to the shops and ****. my odometer doesnt work so i cant see how manny Ks i get per tank. i just have a feeling its bad and im spending up to $100 on petrol a week.
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Cal screw on side of AFM same side as the loom plug, might have a plastic cover over it, best to put a dot of paint on it so you can keep count of how many turns etc. Good to also push some soft foam over it so it doesnt move around due to engine bay vibration Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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ok thanks so if i turn it clockwise about 4 rotations it could help my problem ??
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Quote: Originally Posted by seans VL ok thanks so if i turn it clockwise about 4 rotations it could help my problem ?? Who knows - it could go either way, thing to do is watch the red/green flashing at around 1800 rpms whilst *slowly* turning screw and keeping track of direction and number of *full* turns... But sure, try a little leaner CW first
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