I was driving home from work on the freeway yesterday when I dropped it into 4th to overtake a truck and when it got to about 2500rpm the whole car started jerking back and forth and the engine chugging and misfiring and making no power, feeling like it was about to stall. Managed to get it home keeping the revs under 2grand but it was still misfiring badly and even cut out completly on the way home and wouldnt start for a few mins, as soon as I opened the throttle complelty it would pop and fart and go no where, the tachometer was going crazy. Now this morning cant even get it to run for more then 30 seconds, had to crank it about 30 times to even get it running at all, idles real low like 100rpm occasionally jumping up to 500 and once it even went down to zero, engine completely stopped for about 2seconds then id hear it like fire one or twice by itself and almost start itself with from zero rpm because the ignition was still turned on, id hear the fuel pump repressurise and everything. Anyway, ive swapped the whole dizzy, AFM, and coil with known working ones to no avail, Cleaned all the plugs especially the crank angle sensor plug, no improvement. Any ideas? The car cannot be towed to a mechanic as its in a non towable postion down a steep driveway. When ive managed to get it idling at about 100rpm if i wiggle the CAS plug the engine will sorta change idle for a second, the actual plug looks to be in good nic.

Since you've done all the basics, start considering either swapping your engine loom with a known working one, or testing the ECU.

check the wiring on the cas plug and swap your cas with a working one?

Ive swapped the CAS with a known working one. Swapping the loom is what I was dreading...how hard is it? Do you have to rewire the fusebox? As for the plug, it looks very clean and theres no sign of any corrosion, how should i check the wires? Maybe i should solder the crimps straight on to the dizzy connectors just to get me out of the driveway?

pull back the boot over the plug and have a sus and see if all the wires are in the plug right.

Did that and everythings in its place, I own a multimeter so maybe a resistance check from the CAs plug to the associated loom connector is the way to go?? What Ohms should be the max for the resistance reading?

i'm having the same prob,i've changed just about everything. coil,power transistor,CAS,ecu,afm. i've done all the tests i can.and as far i can tell it's an earth issue,but where? a wiring diagram would be handy,can anyone help us out?

Lets see if this works, from a gregories manual. Now, the legend: B-Black L-Blue G-Green R-Red Y-Yellow W-White N-Brown O-Orange K-pink S-Grey V-Violet P-purple X-light green Z- Light blue M-Dark green T-Dark Blue A-Light brown E-Slate D-Tan 1- Fuse 11 2- Fuse 10 3- Fuse 3 4- EFI power supply relay 5- To fusable link R 6-AFM 7- Coolant temp switch 8-Aux. air control Valve 9-CAS 10- To reverse polarity relay 11- Fuel injectors 12- Detonation sensor 13- ECCS 14- Anti theft emergency switch (Calais) 15- N/A 16- To starter motor 17- To A/C circuit 18- To instrument cluster 19- O2 sensor 20- Air reg. 21- Fuel press. regulator valve 22- High pressure fuel pump 23- Low pressure fuel pump 24- Fuel pump relay 25- To anti theft emergency switch (calais) 26- " " Module 27- Neutral pos. relay 28- Neutral start relay 29- To ign. switch 30- to starter and ign. switch. 31- Transmission neutral mode sensor (Man Trans) 32- Distributor 33- To instrument cluster 34- Coil 35- power tranistor 36- Radio interferance supressor 37- Engine diagnostic connectors 38- Throttle switch 39- To warning lamps 40- To instrument cluster 41- Auto Trans control unit 42- shift switch 43- Throttle valve sensor 44- Transmission diagnostic connectors 45- Throttle pedal switch 46- Power Shift switch 47- To selector lever quadrant selector lamp 48- Overdrive cancel solenoid 49- Downshift solenoid 50- Torque converter clutch solenoid 51- To speed sensor 52- To reverse lamp 53- To warning lamps 54- Reverse lamp switch (Man Trans) 55- Neutral safety switch. Now I should mention this was taken out of a gregories manual. I didn't write it, or claim to have. [/end unnessicery legal fine print] Good luck. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by airbagsVL Did that and everythings in its place, I own a multimeter so maybe a resistance check from the CAs plug to the associated loom connector is the way to go?? What Ohms should be the max for the resistance reading? Any more than 2 ohms is a definate problem, but i would expect to see less than 1 ohm. Ensure the spark plug leads are no where near the cas loom. Leads carry a quick 30,000v pulse to the spark plug....this pulse can induce current into any cables nearby and cause interference. Also check the cas loom has it's shield wire earthed only at the ECU end.

Quote: Originally Posted by airbagsVL Did that and everythings in its place, I own a multimeter so maybe a resistance check from the CAs plug to the associated loom connector is the way to go?? What Ohms should be the max for the resistance reading? Pull 1 of the plugs from a injector and with no ign does it have 12v running to it?? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

and if it does? what does that mean? Is this how you check for injector pulse?