What oil pump would be best to use for 400rwkw and over? I've heard the rb25 pumps are better than the rb30. I've also heard n1 pumps arent very reliable, is this true?
Is there much in the way of aftermarket oil pumps?
It's for a 26/30 and I don't really want to go dry sump at this stage.
Cheers
Brad
Well ive got a jun pump. Cost a bit over 1000. Its for a 26/30. I just thought with the $$$ im spending on the engine i may aswell go a jun pump for the extra 600. I havnt heard good things about the n1 pump either so thought id buy the jun pump, be done with it and have some piece of mind. Its up to you but its going to be alot more than 600 if a n1 pump breaks!
i brought a genuine GTR pump from nissan for $550 odd about a year ago, was a good 20psi over standard pressure at idle !!! great pump and couldnt believe how cheap it was new
Whats the main failure mechanism of the N1 (GTR):-
a. Stripping of the flats which grab the crank ?
b. Blowing the internal seal ?
c. Structural failure of the casting ?
- Any others I cant think of
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
i was under the impression the N1 was only bad if u didnt get the collar and sh*t done up?
i dno.
ur best bet is to check skylinesaustralia brad in all honesty.
im using an N1 pump on my motor.
eek..
did some reading at SAU.. hmm, methinks i might get a JUN item aswell.. coz i too am wanting around 350-400rwkw everyday, for street driving, and yeh, JUN pumps cost around 1200, thats fk'n cheap for something so good.
but what u must ALSO REMEMBER, most of the ppl having failures with these pumps are skyline owners, most probably with rebuilt engines yes..but theyre still rb26s most likely.. meaning theyre reving the sh*t outta their engines.
with our rb26/30 we would never even thi9nk bout hitting anythingover even 8000rpm or 9000rpm lol
this is some good reading aswell brad, quoted from "SYDNEYKID" on SAU, and he seems to know his sh*t.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sydneykid
Just in case some of the readers haven't read and/or can't find the big oil pump thread, this is what I posted;
we have used 30+ N1 oil pumps over 5 years and not broken one. So I am very interested in getting to the bottom of why you have had 2 failures. I don't believe it is simply a case of you having been extremely unlucky or we have been unbelievably lucky. There must be a reason why we don't have problems, something we are doing different. Maybe not something obvious, maybe nothing to do with the oil pump itself.
So what I would like to do is list what we do and see if it is any different to what you did;
1. We always use a wide oil pump drive flange crank (late RB26) or a crank collar on RB20/25/30 cranks.
2. We use all sorts of different harmonic balancers, mostly standard RB26, but some RB30 and ATI.
3. We balance (to very fine tolerances) every up & down and round & round piece. Firstly individually and then as a group. This includes the harmonic balancer, the flywheel, the clutch plate/plates and the pressure plate.
4. All of our engines have oil surge prevention sumps, usually wings, baffles and one way doors.
5. We prime the oil pump on assembly
6. We are very particular about the torque of the harmonic balancer retaining bolt, and we insist that the tension is checked once the engine has been run for 20 minutes.
7. The blocks have the usual oil restrictor flow limits, various depending on the vehicle usage pattern (rpm limit, circuit, drag, road use etc).
8. All engines run oil coolers, most (but not all) run remote oil filters.
9. We insist on an oil filter change at 20 minutes running from new.
That’s about all I can think of that is remotely linked to the oil pump.
The reason for the N1 oil pump selection is for the extra pressure without excessive oil flow. Despite all of the oil return mods and upgrades (inc external return lines) we have found the aftermarket (HKS, Jun, Apexi, Trust etc ) oil pumps simply have too much flow. Plus they cost almost as much as a dry sump pump. So we never use them.
Do I detect a common difference? High rpm and lots of rev limiter controlled launches. We don’t do that many launches, one per race, so 24 per year, plus a few practise launches. With only light use of the launch control rev limiter.
It could also be related to the crank moving inside the oil pump rotor, like a hammer effect. That would be very noticeable on the rpm limiter, like a jack hammer.
What sort of clearances are you running on the oil pump drive flange? I know on at least one crank we have to weld up and regrind the flanges, as they were worn. A couple of other cranks were rejected as they were too far gone. The crank collar (for RB20/25/30) has a much smaller clearance than the “standard” RB26 flange. It is actually a very snug fit.
Cheers
umm butyeah..
whatever, theres so many variables and sh*t to consider.. the N1 pump doesnt just break coz its "sh*t", depends wtf ur doing....hmm i might just ring sum ppl tomorow and find out more about this..im scared lol
Im pretty sure the gears shatter on the n1 pump. As Sydneykid has said they only do one launch per race and probably not bouncing off the rev limiter so this might save them. I would cringe if i had one of these in my car and it hit the rev limiter. Who knows, they might be ok if you were careful and didnt hit the rev limiter doing a burnout but save yourself some headaches and spend the extra on a pump that doesnt have any issues.
mmmm, Have to keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge or rig up a nice
alarm if it dips... The low oil pressure switch on my block is stuffed
and even when it did work it only glowed dimly on the dash...
good reading, thanks genki, I guess SAU is "SkylinesAustralia" web site/forum ?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
hmm
i think i might get a jun item aswell...
i heard that it flows the "same amount" but its just not as dodgy as the N1
but i dont get this??
arent there HEAPS of rb30 SOHC boys running 9s and 10's with std fk'n rb30 oil pumps..
man, fk this, ive nearly had enuf of RB motors and i havent even got near putting my engine in my car yet!
shouldve been a 2jz... ffs
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by genki
hmm
i think i might get a jun item aswell...
i heard that it flows the "same amount" but its just not as dodgy as the N1
In another thread its mentioned (RB30-POWER?) that the crank has the flats
narrower than needed on the N1 and this implies they are wide enough for
the VL and the VLT pumps. I infer from this its the flats on the crank that
might strip because the pump load for the N1 is definitely going to be higher
and I also suspect that if you run a viscous oil vs say a synthetic with the
N1 then the situation could be even worse...
Id still pursue this anyway, lot easier than a another engine and the inlet/exhaust
swapped around...
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
l went dry sump (n1 r sh-it cost me a few buks ) if your really worried about it go external wet sump single stage kyle 6 boost runs 1 and many others its around the thousand mark to set up and well worth it fully adjustable like the jun but will never brake as people have still broken jun pumps.
