I went off the idea of converting to an RB30DET for a while ('cause of money) but now I'm thinking of throwing a turbo on without changing the head, much cheaper/easier and it's not like I have to absolutely fly.
Would still like to know which is a better idea though, I mean if I'm spending enough money on it and the time aswell anyway, might aswell go for twin cam.
But my big question is about getting it certed in New Zealand.. was wondering if anyone else on here has put a turbo on a factory non-turbo VL and whether or not they needed a cert in the end or not.
Thanks in advance, been confusing myself with what I want to do for far too long.
EDIT : Just remembered it might make a difference that my wagon (yes, wagon) has had V8 discs put in the rear and been lowered, might they pick on them aswell or would they help for the cert? And I also bought a nearly complete RB20DET head a few years ago that I planned to put on my 2 litre VL, of course it turned out I had no where near enough money to go further at the time.
I hear rumours that its easier in NZ than Aust, I've heard of people putting
small V8's in a 1972 ford escort, couldnt do that and get away with it in
Aust. Over here its ok (mostly) as the argument is that the body is the same etc
Ha, that's strange, when I was in school people always said Australia didn't have a WoF system. So I was expecting the opposite of that.
I'm pretty certain that a cert is needed if a twin cam head is used, but I can't think of any single came turbo conversions.. all the ones I see for sale are RB20DET/RB25DET, and the occasional RB30DET engine for sale at $3000+. And before anyone suggests it, no I can't get a factory turbo, or even a factory turbo engine, there is effectively none over here.
Another edit : Those fuserails look nice.
yea i had to cert mine, they put a red flag on the car untill it was certed so i couldnt go to a different wof place and get a dodgy wof.
it passed the cert first time, just put v8 brakes on and had no probs
its around 300-350 to get one done
Turbocharging most definately requires cert as your car did not have one on it. Unfortunately there is no loophole like "if turbo an option on that particular model, it doesnt need cert". even repowering a 2L VL with an RB30 requires cert, even though they are exactly the same car.
Looks like I need to find new front brakes then.
How bad would the standard RB20DET turbo be on an RB30ET? Possibly as a stepping stone just to get it all going earlier.
Last stupid question is : Dump pipe, is that just the part running from the turbo down to the rest of the exhaust?
Yeah I thought about putting a RB30 into my first VL, decided it wasn't worth it! Would need a gearbox too because the 2L gearbox is the worst thing about those cars.
Re dump, thats a good question as some mechanics even get confused.
The proper dump is the cast iron pipe with 6 or 7 bolts that matches
up exactly with the turbo, has a 3 bolt flange on the other end.
Some people say the dump is the one that goes to the cat, which I dont
think is correct, so much sloppy terminology out there...
So you have, in sequence,
-turbo
-turbo dump (cast iron, many bolt to match turbo, 3 bolt other end)
-dump to cat (3 bolt flange to 2 bolt flange other end)
-cat
an Rb20DET can make very good power, seems like an easier/better option
esp if its cert is easier, I mean whats a litre - should get good economy
In any case the RB20det would prob look like a RB30DET later anyway ;-)
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
No matter what you do you will have to cert it. Dont bother with an RB20, although the turbo unit itself will be suitable for running on an RB30 with low boost pressure. Yes you should upgrade the brakes, but it is not necessary for cert as they still pull the car up adaquately. Remember that the rules are written in a "perfect world" where they believe nobody will ever exceed 100km/h.
As for the 2L gearbox, the 3L one isnt much better!
Quote:
Originally Posted by calais3L
As for the 2L gearbox, the 3L one isnt much better!
Strength wise I'm sure you're right, but the ratios in the 2L are shocking!
Well new pistons cost too much so I'll be stuck on low boost anyway.
Yeah I felt stupid asking that question 'cause I'm supposed to be a mechanic, though I'll never touch a turbo at my current workplace so not such a problem. Any idea how much a dump pipe costs, and no cat's here thanks! Neither of my cars have them now, don't see why I should put one in :P
Quote:
Originally Posted by RB30E
Well i know a couple of converted VL commodores down here and they never needed cert.
And they've had no issues with WoFs, or do they ignore those too?
To do EVERYTHING properly it costs so much, brake upgrade packs are damn expensive.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
If the vehicle isn't certed and gets a dodgy WOF, Then you have a crash and your insurance company finds that it has been illegally modified you are up (blank) creek. Dont do things by halves.
A cheap brake upgrade is rear discs (which you already have) and VL Turbo Calipers and Rotors. Rotors are easy and can be bought new aftermarket, These are the same caliper as VL-VP V8. From VPII these calipers were fitted to V6's as well. You will have no problem with cert with this setup as it is all factory parts.
Mines not certed. But tbh you couldn't tell the difference apart from lookin at ze code! Make a thread in the NZ forum dude. We always chattin in there
I don't think most WOF places would know the difference between a factory turbo VL and a non factory turbo VL
If you do want it certed for the sake of the law (which I would) go to Mark Stokes. He did my VL and my past 3 daily drivers (for the coilovers). He certed my VL when I first put the injected V8 in with standard calais 6 brakes. He asked for the front and rear pads to be upgraded to decent hard ones
You will require a cert if the engine upgrade if power is increased more than the set amount. Can't remember off the top of my head but its around 10-15% more than factory, which is really sweet F.A. You can find the certification documents online somewhere. This outlines everything that needs to be certed and what doesn't. Good bedtime reading if your working on a big project like myself!
You know it really amazes me how many people ignore their brakes. FFS people there are only two things really keeping you on the road. Brakes and tyres. Look after them! Standard VL brakes are sh1te.
Niche: Yes, over here you can certify just about anything!
NZ EVLHSV: Don't you think certing coilovers is a waste of time?? You can bet most people cert the car at legal height, then as soon as they get home, wind the shocks right down. Pointless. Not sure why you can get away with lowered springs, but need a cert for adjustables.
Yeah I only get the cert for coilovers because you are meant to. I have never been pulled over and asked to see the cert. I cert mine at the lowest point, then I raise it for the winter as I ski a lot. I don’t think anyone will complain if the car is higher than what it says on the cert
It's amazing how much decent pads improves standard VL brakes. You need disk brake rear end though
personally i'd like to stop as well as go, upgrade the brakes now and spec the motor later its a small cost compared to hitting the wall when the car doesnt pull up, but in saying that 6cyl fron calipers and v8 rears have enough clamping pressure to stop you even when running a 3/4 master.
Well to be honest with you, I only just realised that there's a NZ sub forum tonight
And it might be worth checking out whether or not my diff/brakes are actually the V8 ones, or just the RB30 ones, anyone know if I can check if it's 25 or 28 spline with out dropping it out and counting? (I think I do need to change something on my driveshaft though.. it's either that or my TPS being set wrong)
I'd hope a turbo gives me more than 10% more power, lol
Hmmm, low quality brake upgrade sounds reasonably cheap then.
EVLHSV, I take it that Mark Stokes is local (Auckland), were the cert papers expensive? It'll be pointless having insurance if it's void by not having a cert, so I think I should get one!
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Check the tag on the diff, you'll find it by looking at the diff from the back of the car, its held in place by one of the bolts that holds the back cover of the diff on. Then use the diff code IDs that are on this site somewhere. Chances are it is a 25 spline diff. From memory only V8s and turbos came out with the 28 spline one. I could be wrong tho!
A cert is around $350-450 I think, but they will certify all mods done to the car, so there is no point gettin one until your finished. Unless you wanna pay twice.
I think you can find a list of the certifiers on the web.
