Just looking for some info from [b]those who have gone 9.5-10.5, in street driven vl's..... as to wat kinda suspension setups you used. ? whos gone wat times with wat suspension from 9.5-10.5 and got away with doin as little as possible ? State wat power u were using also if u wish to, and also approx boost u were launching at? have u needed to weld up the diff mounting points in the floor ? brace the panhard rod bracket ? use adjutable upper arms ? box the lower arms ? 90/10's in the front or not ? spring combination ? standards or modded othewise ? and rubber or nolothane ? or a mix of both for certain parts ? Exact info from those in the know if ur willing to share. Pm if u wish, but should provide an interesting read none the less. Ta Ollie Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

-Standard front springs with 90/10 shocks -Standard rear springs with a taller right hand spring - 50/50 rear shocks -Nolothane bushes -Pedders sway bar Taking off on about 20psi/6000rpm Worked pretty good, 1.45 60ft - 10.20et Is good to drive on the street, the front end is a little floaty but you get used to it.

370rwkw Standard front springs & 90/10's 1 inch lowered rear king springs standard rear shocks boxed bottom arms aftermarket boxed top arms (non ajustable) Nolathane No welding 9.81 et with 1.50 60 foot I leave on 20psi has 60 footed a best of 1.46

Credit to u guys for posting.... exact answers.... and to the point.. Keep em coming.. Ollie

anyone done these sort of times without a transbrake?

Quote: Originally Posted by lebrocon anyone done these sort of times without a transbrake? Im not quite in the time bracket you wanted, but could have been with a couple more runs to practice, but I got booted for no roll cage. Thought I would post as not much response. I did a 10.80sec pass and 60foot of 1.5sec with following specs; Launching at approx 10psi with t/brake. More would have been better but got booted out before I could try. Full bodied/full street driven weighted berlina standard fe2 springs all round (rears are lovells equivalent) $20 shock from ebay which were brand new genuine hydraulics for rear Koni front shocks. Not 90/10's but as close as you can be without losing good feel on the street. ie 90/10's can be floaty as metioned. Standard tailshaft standard borg warner diff lsd with 3.9 whiteline panhard rod with nolathane. With more practice, times should have been mid 10's as I hadnt quite sorted the changes with regards to ideal rpm etc. But hopefully C16 and change motec to already loaded map for the C16 and maybe 9's or deep 10's because on C16 I get 620hp at engine.

Amazing work guys

top efforts there lads well done

Also interested in this post. Keep em coming guys!!!

Quote: Originally Posted by exchaser Credit to u guys for posting.... exact answers.... and to the point.. Keep em coming.. Ollie Tried a different sway bar today at Heathcote ran a couple of 9.9's but my slicks seemed to have gone off and it 60 footed 1.56 at a best and some 1.65's which is sh1thouse. Then i took the sway bar off expecting it to left the pass wheel 2 foot off the ground and it didn't at all, so that confirmed the slick had no grip Try again another day with the sway bar back on and new boots

Again i'm not in that time bracket but hopefully with bigger turbo will see 10's. I have a question though about the rear set up's i raced the other night and decided to put on the standard fe2 springs. thinking that my car might swat a bit off the line and get a better 60ft. It was the opposite and the car vibrated badly for the first 150 or so meters. it has NEVER done this with king spring super lows. Does this mean that maybe my rear shocks need to be tossed or are the old fe2 springs just no good anymore. Meeting before the car ran 12.2 and this time just a flat 13 with the vibration off the line. Just thinking if it is the rear shocks what one should i get to replace them?

mark and sam curious as to what each of your cars weigh , with driver preferably

you blokes using 28by9 slicks what diff ratio u using and how many rpm and mph is it over the line thanks

Quote: Originally Posted by Tuurbo Again i'm not in that time bracket but hopefully with bigger turbo will see 10's. I have a question though about the rear set up's i raced the other night and decided to put on the standard fe2 springs. thinking that my car might swat a bit off the line and get a better 60ft. It was the opposite and the car vibrated badly for the first 150 or so meters. it has NEVER done this with king spring super lows. Does this mean that maybe my rear shocks need to be tossed or are the old fe2 springs just no good anymore. Meeting before the car ran 12.2 and this time just a flat 13 with the vibration off the line. Just thinking if it is the rear shocks what one should i get to replace them? Sounds like by changing the set up its made it harder therefore giving you the bouncing. Even though theyre only springs some are different thicknesses in the coils and this stiffens it up ALOT. Whack your old springs back in and see how it goes.

Quote: Originally Posted by OVL087 mark and sam curious as to what each of your cars weigh , with driver preferably I know what i weigh but not the car, around 80kg-ish less than a standard Calais Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i done the same thing in my old vl... axle tramped without slicks

Quote: Originally Posted by vltnitron you blokes using 28by9 slicks what diff ratio u using and how many rpm and mph is it over the line thanks 26X10 - 3.45 - 140mph -7200ish not to sure on the rpm, not watching the tacho at 140mph

Quote: Originally Posted by OVL087 mark and sam curious as to what each of your cars weigh , with driver preferably I have No Idea.. But when i raced it had a cage, FULL sterio ie 2 amps, subs, boxed out boot etc etc... So would have weighed a touch more than standard...

two89 i would have thought sticking the old springs in would have made it softer in the rear. my lowered springs would be harder then the fe2's and it dont vibrate at all with them. this weekend will put the lowered springs back in for heathcote. guess i gotta try a few different combinations to find what's best.

If you have softer rear springs than heavy duty ones (eg std or FE2), you might need to run a good quality valved shock to stop the axle tramp if it happens. I just sold a guy some of my 90/10 fronts and 50/50? rears. He has only fitted the rears so far and said they totally stopped the violent axle tramp he had and it just squats and goes. Stiff springs in the front probably dont really matter as much they are not being compressed. You just have to make sure they are stiff enough to cope with the front end coming down hard after a wheels up launch so the struts dont punch a hole thru the strut top.