What sort of work is needed for straight lpg in a vlt?
like i said in the other thread a mechanic said to me that the head needs 2 be lubricated with fuel every so often... how do you get around this?
do you need 2 change lifters, cam or anything else?
from what ive been told nothign needs to be changed?
the only head work that needs to be done is on pre unleaded cars as they rely on the lead to lubricate things...
even then pretty sure its just hardended valve seats that were needed
everything else would operate as normaly as if it was being run on petrol
but this is a bit of a grey area for alot of ppl. some mechanics swear that ull need to lubricate/upgrade the valvetrain others say itl be fine lol
i didnt really explain myself properly
i know it SHOULD be all right but i just wanna no wat to swap over 2 be safe and also to make more power ie what cam would be best suited for gas or it doesnt matter its the same basic principle again as petrol?
yeah, the rb30 valve seats are already hardened from factory as they run unleaded fuel. its the lead in old fuel that helped stop valve seat recession/wear.
its still a good idea for extra protection to run a valve seat lubricant.
eg. http://www.flashlube.com.au/valvesaverkit/index.html
almost every lpg vehicle i see has this or alternative brand on it, including most taxis.
as for camshaft, depends on what your trying to do, a generic camshaft will work fine, but im sure if you told most cam grinders you were running lpg, they might change the profile a bit for better performance on lpg.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morgz
when i did my conversion nothing was changed at all.. made more than enough power for the street with standard cam in place, no headwork.
did you get the gas fitted in ballarat?
alright gas boys got a quick question
if i was to install a stage 3 cam (or something really lump) running straight lpg would i still need an aftermarket ecu?
LPG is not gonna do well with big lift cams.
Hates it.
Contact WADE cams and tell them exactly what you are running and what you want it for and they'll steer you right.
I have used wade cams with success in RB30T over the years. Mostly cause its cheap to regrind your existing cam and lifters by them and they have always done a fantastic job.
you want stainless steel valves/seats. Over time the seats receed into the head, even if they are the hardened seats which engines designed for unleaded fuel use.