i currently have a full rb26 engine with a 6boost manifold and a gt35/40 with a r33 5 speedbox. what would you use a rb26 bottom end or a 3 litre.

If you're willing to spend the money, a 26/30 combo can make big power. Bigger capacity, and the R33 5 speed box is tough as nails/compatible.

i have a rb30 bottom end with a jun crank collar n1oil pump arp studs the rest is stock n/a it only has 140,000 on it what sort ofpower can be run with the rb26 head gt 35/40 and a aftermarket ecu.

a built rb26 or rb30 bottom end will cost basically the same - if u got the 26 head your laughing. You cant beat cubes - go the 3 litre

RB30DET FTW! 26/30 would be awesome. Plus you don't need to get your car eingenered since it's still the 'same' engine, or at least i think thats how it goes.

id like to know how many rwkw my 140,000 bottom end will be ok for its out of a grandpa vl auto i bought the car because i had seen him driving it and you could walk past him.

The only problem with the 26/30 is emissions. There's no factory ecu for the combo so it must go through emissions testing. With the 26 you simply bolt the std 26 ecu in and thats good enough. Then 'WHEN' not if it gets the knock of death slide the 30 bottom end under and power on. For a street car really do consider keeping the twins. They offer noticeable better response in say second gear rolling out of a corner. Inertia due to the large wheels is a killer for the big singles. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

im not worried about emissions or anything or engineering certificates would the 3 liter n/a bottom end handle say 200rwkw and 300rwkw every now and then.

If its in good nick and you keep revs to 7k max it will handle 400rwkw. Its all in the tuning and keeping rev's sensible. While its apart to block the rear restrictor and shove a 1.5mm restrictor up front. Failing to do this will ensure surge and catch can filling. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

looks like im going rb30det now i have a rb26 block and twin turbo setup for sale cheap.

Won't consider keeping the twins? You can pick up a set of new 'bolt on' easy as piss nothing to change or fabricate HKS GTRS or HKSGT2530's and your on your way to a responsive easy 400rwkw. The big singles make the power but you also need a good exh. manifold + all the fabrication etc so the costs becomes very much equal. + due to the inertia of the larger big single it doesn't offer the same from zero throttle to full throttle response which is great for rolling runs or corner exit. The better response of the twins is very much noticeable in the lower 1st and 2nd gears. www.nengun.com (http://www.nengun.com) http://www.nengun.com/hks/turbo-kit-gt2530-gtr $3.1k delivered bolt on for mid to high 300's at the wheels. http://www.nengun.com/hks/turbo-kit-gt-rs-gtr - $3.6k delivered bolt on for 400rwkw and slightly over.

i already have a 6boost manifold gt35/40 oil lines to suit and a 48mm turbosmart progate all readyto bolt on. if i didnt have this i would definatley run twins. the turbo is also a .86

Its all good then.. Sky30/Andrew over on SAU with his GTS4 is pushing out 380rwkw with a rb26 head, aftermarket cams, home made low mount exh manifold and gt35r .82. Still on the stock 320,000km+ N/A bottom end. Makes all its boost by 3400rpm. Good motors those RB30's. :P

plus it sounds so sick when you hit full boost and the gate opens with the screamer pipe.

I do agree. :P Hearing Jays old cressy scream up from behind scared the crap out of me the first time.

whats a set of twin turbo manifolds worth with oil lines and water lines turbos and all the cast piping and hoses.