hell all im new to this forum n would like some help.
heres the story: dad has a green vl executive wagon that he bought for 1k (personaly i think its the best thousand hes spent cos its lasted him 3 years) but this car runs fantastic exept for the hereditary injector tapping noise, but the ignition decided to crap itself so he bought a straight as white wagon for 200 bux off a mate, but it runs like absolute crap (it has a cracked head).
we r goin 2 swap the motors over n we were wanderin if there are any troubles we might run into removing the engines.
this is the first time either of us have removed an rb 30 n have no clue what to expect
ps the boxes will be coming out conected to the engines.
any help apreciated
CHEERS
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
The only big prob is that if its going from an earlier make into and older make (so like 1986 into a 1988 But still both VLs) there is a problem with the ECU i think.. i forget the thing but it has been all over this site alot and it is a easy fix (done it myself)
other then that, it should be a smooth change over as long as there both auto/auto Manual/Manual. If not then you have to change alot more stuff.
just hate note of were all the plugs, lines and wires go to and it will be all good.
Take bonnet off,
take the tail shaft out and plug the hole,
undo the radiator hoses drian out coolent
unplug the loom from the ecu,
pop it back out the firewall into the engine bay,
disconnect the fuel lines,
and and wires that run to the battery,
hook up the engine crane
undo the tail shaft mounts and engien mounts(also best to put somthing under the back of the gearbox so that it doesnt scape the ground)
jack it up and out wards.
reverso putting it back in.
i might have lefta few things out as this was all off the top of my head, i've done two engine chagers complety by my self its pretty easy.
with the looms think it was the two pink wires u have to join them to make one. its on here just do a search
you can also drop the whole front crossmember including engine/trans and lift the car off the engine.
its only about 8 or 10 bolts to undo that way and then bleed the brakes.
^^^ yer but there is straps going from body to motor and so on.
and to get the loom from the ECU through the firewall, lay on your back in the passanger footwell, feel up to were the loom goes though the firewall and there will be a big rubble thingy, there will be a hard plastic item on that, pull it off, that stops it all coming out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by [T]Matty
^^^ yer but there is straps going from body to motor and so on.
and to get the loom from the ECU through the firewall, lay on your back in the passanger footwell, feel up to were the loom goes though the firewall and there will be a big rubble thingy, there will be a hard plastic item on that, pull it off, that stops it all coming out.
^^^
i wouldn't suggest pulling the plastic surround off the rubber bung.. they have a habit of snapping and unless you have another one lying around your bung wont stay back in the firewall after you put it back in .. on the edge of the plastic ring there are little tabs that stick out . get a flat screwdriver and push them tawords the bung. and push it out of the firewall
Was never quite sure about this, so the engine loom just goes through the firewall and into the ECU. Thats it?
In other words, is it easy to replace just the engine loom?
It is atleast 100 times easier to simply unplug the ecu, and pull it through the firewall. just get another clip later if you need to, otherwise a little silicon smeared around the gromet should be fine.
Basicly drain gearbox oil
Remove tailshaft
unbolt chasis brace (near gearbox x member)
unbolt gearbox x member from chasis
unbolt gearbox x member from gearbox
remove clutch slave
remove speedo cable (unscrews)
remove gearbox wiring loom
thats the under car bit done
Unbolt ac compressor
unbolt power steering line that bolts to bottom of the motor
remove batter for added working space
remove air filter and afm crap. stick tools in the empty filter box
remove starter motor, and alternator wiring, remove ground point for battery
remove charcol canister
pull engine loom through the firewall
unbolt engine mounts
oh also pays to remove radiator, heater hoses etc nearly forgot them
from here you should simply be able to pull the motor out, it will need to be pulled out on an angle, so the gearbox will come out with the motor.
dont forget to remove gearstick (just remove circlip and pull the hole shifter out!, dont bother with the bolts
um... oh yeah you may need to jack the back of the gearbox up a bit when pulling the motor out as it tends to catch on the steering rack
when pulling the motor out have a block and tackle attached to something high, and push the car back and forwards as you need to when pulling it all out
hope that helps, probobly forgotten a few things, its just what i can think of off the top of my head (done it 4 times in the past few weeks )
oh yeah as marmo said, take bonet off! makes it 1000x easier, then yeah radiators, shroud, clutch fan etc, so you've got some standing room! yey
takes me 4 hours (with car hoist) to remove the engine, about 6 to put it all back in
Dont forget you'll need new gearbox oil, coolant, powersteering fluid (dextron III - i think...) basicly it'll say powersteering fluid on the bottle, dont worry its the same stuff.
Oh and someone to talk to / boss around. its a **** of a job, but overall its pretty easy.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
