car has been fine for 2yrs now it is randomly turning off.... i have replaced the cas recently and car starts first go when cold but takes a while to start when hot i have also cleaned the plug on the cas. i did have an old turbosmart turbotimer instaled one with a circut board that slid over the ignition plug and thort that this was the problem as i unplugged it and it was fine for 2 days. when it turns off the revs will dropp straight to 0 while driving. the only thing i have changed recently is put the afm into the piping but i had the car running this way for about a yr with no dramas do you think that i need a new cas plug? a new cas? new afm? or is it some other problem? the car has develop a bit of a miss when over 4000 rpm since it has been switching off and have noticed when i turn the car off myself after the revs have gone to 0 the exhaust males a backfire sound HELP!

Perhaps check the lead between the coil and the distributor? That used to happen when I first got my car; a break in the lead had been ingeniously disguised. Better check the basics: leads, plugs, distributor cap, fuels, etc.

leads are resonalby new , spark plug are about a month old maybe alil bit more car was runnying really rich mid range maybe they r fouled? how would you clean sparkplugs? or just replaced them? might have to change the fuel filter tomorow just to rule that one out dizzy cap is clean, and plenty of fuel

Check the wires for the CAS plug. I had a similar problem years ago with my VL, one of the wires had pulled out of the pin and was just touching the pin. With a bit of vibration the wire would break contact and the car would stall.

Also check the security key switch, ie start up car, open glovebox and give the thing some heavy taps now and then.Mine has been erratic for a while and was a b.gg.r to find ! Dont think the sec key exists on the SL but should be on all calais and some berlina but cant be sure re berlina

i am replacing my cas plug atm now there is four wires going into the plug but on both looms i have an extra wire which isnt insulated and it doesnt seem to go anywhere? what is this wire????????

Security key in the glove box was standard on series 2 Calais, and an option on series 2 Berlinas. I know, because my series one Calais didn't have the plug to host the security key (totally different loom), where as my series 2 Berlina does. According to Ellerys, there are four wires on the CAS plug: yellow (goes to ECCS), white (ECCS), black (earth), and orange/black (connects to a relay and AAC). There should be a black wire that simply screws into the plate where the CAS plug is on the dizzy (earth), and a green one a bit further down the loom that connects onto the temperature gauge sender. Does this help?

Bugger, I've bid on a security key that's on ebay just now, but my car is a series 1 Calais, so I guess it aint gonna fit anywhere. Oh well, can always offload it again. Not sure about the extra wire, my car trouble was about 12 years ago, I remember removing the rubber plug cap and finding the loose wire but don't recall how many wires or what went where. My car is in the mechanics too, has a max ellery manual in it, not much good there but.

well ive just replaced the cas plug , and checked the plug's arent fouled because of the top end miss also replaced the lead goin to the coil im about to go for a test drive but this prob is really pissing me off as it will drive fine then in the space of 10mins swtich off a couple of times.... not good when you are sitting at the lights......

Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl Security key in the glove box was standard on series 2 Calais, and an option on series 2 Berlinas. I know, because my series one Calais didn't have the plug to host the security key (totally different loom), where as my series 2 Berlina does. Thats odd, mine is a Series 1 (1986) and my key is pointing up and its on top rail of the plastic as soon as you open the glovebox. Its been ****y for a while, if I dont get it in just the right position and I go over a slight bump the engine cuts out, have to stop, turn off ignition, wait 20 secs then fiddle with switch and its all right again <guh> Have to take it out and fix it, but that means the whole dash surround above the glovebox ! Re CAS, check your codes on the ECU because often a minor glitch of the signal from the CAS will raise a fault code yet wont stop engine running, it might badly misfire then be ok. Though the older CAS would also get a temp fault, they would die totally when they got really hot. I got a recon and paid extra for the milspec high temp infra red diodes instead and it hasnt missed a beat but, the cap is 180deg out of position in comparison with the standard VL/VLT one.

Quote: Originally Posted by CTs2 Sabo i am replacing my cas plug atm now there is four wires going into the plug but on both looms i have an extra wire which isnt insulated and it doesnt seem to go anywhere? what is this wire???????? Thats the shield/drain wire. The high frequency, low voltage signals of the CAS are susceptible to interference. The ECU end of the wire ONLY should be earthed. Also ensure spark plug leads are as far away as possible from the CAS wires.

Mines the other way around, the cable end near the cas has a slip-on insulated spade which goes on the metal tab at the base of the socket on the CAS. But yes, in principle one should only have one end earthed to avoid ground loops and to avoid the chance some other earth is faulty making the CAS earth line carry more current then its meant too - causing all sorts of problems,

You have a pic of the security key locations guys? My car wasn't handy to check if it would accomodate a key, so I cancelled my ebay bid and let the one on there go, I hope I don't find the plug for it when I get the car back. My car is Nov '86 build.

check your o2 sensor! mine was like that, i uplugged o2 sensor, started car back up again and it was running mint, bought new o2 sensor next day installed and its running beautiful now

ok ive replaced the cas with anuther working unit , placed the afm back infront of the turbo, changed the cas plug tryed a diferent coil the car is running really ruff the car was running fine 2 weeks ago when i put it on the dyno and it put out 175rwkw on 10psi checked the plugs yesterday they werent fouled and looked to be in good working order it is really ****tin me as i need it goin for work this week vls great when they are goin shocking when they arent im about to change the o2 sensor

Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl Security key in the glove box was standard on series 2 Calais, and an option on series 2 Berlinas. I know, because my series one Calais didn't have the plug to host the security key (totally different loom), where as my series 2 Berlina does. According to Ellerys, there are four wires on the CAS plug: yellow (goes to ECCS), white (ECCS), black (earth), and orange/black (connects to a relay and AAC). There should be a black wire that simply screws into the plate where the CAS plug is on the dizzy (earth), and a green one a bit further down the loom that connects onto the temperature gauge sender. Does this help? agreed, i had HEAPS of problems with that stupid key barrel, i went to cobra and they fixed it all up, also had problems with the coil and ignitor.. so check those 3

ok just checked the fault codes and came back with this, 23,24,31 now the car was originally an auto but been converted with the whole loom aswell ''it is ok if the ECU returns 23, 24 (if car is auto), 31 (if car fitted with a/c)'' just read that sumwhere

when you are in diagnostic mode you have to manually cancel those codes by, open accelerator and close, select a gear then neutral, turn a/c switch on then off, then those codes will cancel and if there is no other problems you are left with code 44

I just assumed that they changed the interior loom to accomodate the anti-theft system in Series 2 (as my series 1 lacked it). The only way to tell if your car can take it is to pull the top part of the dash off and look for a massive black plug; about 16 pin. Waughy, it sits right behind the boot release button; theres a D-shaped hole cut into the dash plastic

Quote: Originally Posted by Waughy You have a pic of the security key locations guys? My car wasn't handy to check if it would accomodate a key, so I cancelled my ebay bid and let the one on there go, I hope I don't find the plug for it when I get the car back. My car is Nov '86 build. I've just added a tech link to my web page, pretty much random stuff there at moment and will add to it from time to time, hopefully filenames are descriptive, security key included Waughy:- Some VL part/technical pictures/data (http://niche.iinet.net.au/VL_Technical/)