hey hows it going guys, been searching through the forums, cos i got a idle problem, couldnt relly find anything specific so i thought id make a post. I have this problem with my n/a vl, -whether its warm, hot, cold, it dont matter -when the car is stopd as in not moving either in park neutral or any gear it dont matter all the same it has a very low/slow ruff idle like its about to turn off. It isnt miss firing it just a relly slow ruff'ish idle. -Any slight press of the accelerator without hesitation it goes away car runs perfect. doesn't miss fire at all in any rev range -Let go of accelerator car will run fine for few secs on idle then slowly return to bad idle again. -Take the car for a drive, stop at traffic lights its fine give it about 10sec at most it will slowly begin to idle bad again. Its doing my head what could it be lol??? Ive changed the spark plugs, i replaced the CAS plug on the dizzy as that was a bit faulty, i changed the fuel filter in case it was blocked. To me it seems like a fuel issue, cos it idles fine for a few sec's after driving it/pressing accelerator, then after idle begins to slowly drop like it isn't getting enough fuel. I would appreciate any input you guys may have. Also i dunno if this is relevant but while the car is bad idle i remove the front rocker cover breather hose and the car turns off, n it wont start again until i put it back into rocker cover, i checked the valve thing'y on the intake also and that isn't blocked. I dunno if this is relevant lol. Well than'x for taking the time to read my little problem, i appreciate it.

Hi there, Just saw this now after sending u a pm, hope that helps. btw: Leave rocker breather hoses in place, the air sucked through the crankcase is metered by the AFM and you dont want to upset that, here is the core of my pm to you so others can see what I have written plus a minor edit to add stuff re TB screw, cheers First *never* touch the screw on the throttle body to adjust idle, there are better ways.But if you have already touched this screw then just leave it alone and seehow you go for the time being, Your TPS tells the computer to adjust mixture just a little when on idle but this also depends on the engine temp sensor, fact it goes ok off idle suggests your idle speed is either a little too low and/or too rich or too lean then AFM cal screw can do with a tweak. Before you do anything else, take off the left hand passenger kick panel and make sure the screw on the computer is on its end stop (be gentle with a small screwdriver) and the sticker will show you its the opposite direction to the screw being on diagnostic mode. a. First raise idle speed by adjusting the screw on the back of the AAC valve. ie If it goes down, then go in other direction. b. Then wait for it to settle for a minute or two c. Adjust the cal screw on the AFM either left or right until idle goes up a little, if it goes down go the other way *but* record the number of turns on the screw, best is on a sticker on top of AFM. btw: It shouldnt be necessary to go more than 5 turns in either direction ! Note: Have your ear close to the AFM, if you hear a click then you have got to the screw end stops, in that case stop counting, no panic though, it wont damage anything as its just a rachet stop. Then if the idle speed has gone up, go back to the screw on the back of the AAC and slow the idle back down again back to the 750 to 780 rpms figure. Let us know what happens as feedback tells us if there are other complications like selective leaks through hoses at higher vacuum that look so much like TPS/AFM issues etc etc Cheers

have u tried playing with the idle adjuster on the plenum? dont think u said wether or not ud tried that so maybe its something as simple as that also have u checked the timing? both are very simple solutions and u might have already done both but just check cause they might be contributing to it. After that if its still doing it then ull have to try other things.. I'm inclined to believe its not a fuel supply issue, cause if youve ever driven ur car when the tanks pretty much empty ull know that it wont be to happy to rev at all. If its having trouble getting fuel on idle it would probably only amplify that problem when reving it Just my thoughts, try some simple things then let us know if its still doing it EDIT: Mike M, Pretty sure thats the second time youve beaten me to a post in the past few days haha. Im obviously not quick enough, ur advice is a bit more informed then mine however

oorrrppss Sheer luck I have time in between jobs, thanks for observation, I can now go to the wine bar with confidence and pickup chicks Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Its maybe one of your vacuum lines is disconected, split, freyed etc.

our other vl is doing the same thing and its annoying the **** out of me, weird thing is i put my afm on it to see if it improved and it was a hell of a lot worse, but my car is running perfect :s

Quote: Originally Posted by snake my wife's is doing the same thing and its annoying the **** out of me, weird thing is i put my afm on it to see if it improved and it was a hell of a lot worse, but my car is running perfect :s Doesnt tell you much unless you also reset the computer, ie. Disconnect one terminal of battery for 30mins so ECU gets no power. If it is an issue when changing AFMit could suggest a connector problem it might be just simple superificial corrosion of either part, ie Plug on AFM and/or socket on loom - it could also indicate a crimp problem where the loom comes into the AFM socket moulding... But do need to reset ECU fully

i'll try resetting it because i fitted a 2.5" exhaust today too so it might help it sort itself out. also i have a vac hose that has split so i'll replace that too and hopefully that will solve everything for me. i really hope it does lol

Quote: Originally Posted by Niche Doesnt tell you much unless you also reset the computer, ie. Disconnect one terminal of battery for 30mins so ECU gets no power. If it is an issue when changing AFMit could suggest a connector problem it might be just simple superificial corrosion of either part, ie Plug on AFM and/or socket on loom - it could also indicate a crimp problem where the loom comes into the AFM socket moulding... But do need to reset ECU fully Just when you think there are to many wankers on this forum, along comes and informative intelligent person to change my view. Hats off to you mate, I just wish more people like yourself would take the time to answer people worries more often. And yeah my vl has a same sort of problem, but mine only idles to low when cold, so I turned up the acc valve when cold to make it idle at correct speed, but once its warm it then is idle to high? could it be cts not telling comp its cold, therefore no rich the mixture and give it more air through the acc valve?