Hey whats everyones opinion on subs ****ing up vl boot lids? In my pos what is for sale I had a cheap 12" what put so much pressure on the boot that the welds broke and the top part of the boot now vibrates like crazy. And when you push down on the boot lid it can be pushed down about half an inch before it touches the support bracket/frame where it was originally welded to. My new VL has been resprayed and the welds look fairly new. I miss the bass and I'm thinking about putting the sub in my new VL but am worried it will **** the boot lid up again Whats your opinion coming from subs and vl boots? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Me thinks you pull your wanger.

I do i do

Who doesn't? Now back on topic.

Can these welds be fixed or strengthened? mine does the same thing ***hell annoying

correct me if im wrong, but when using a sub shouldnt you have reforced your boot anyway? or insolated it with material to cope with the extra force it recieves as a result of the sub?

not everyone can afford that stuff, it aint cheap! can anyone answer my question tho?

Well considering the user who created this thread has his re welded i guess you can!

silicone it down. stops alot of the vibration and is cheap to do

Quote: silicone it down. stops alot of the vibration and is cheap to do How would silicne hold the boot lid to the frame thing? Wouldnt it just fall apart?. ------------------- Come on, some fully sick uleh down from melbourne with his 20 15" sub woofers should have experience with this type of stuff???

Any boot is going to rattle with a Sub in it. They're over-rated anyhow. I took mine out.

I don't care if it rattles, its a 19 year old car its going to rattle in some places anyway. I just don't want it to snap the welds again. I was also not going to put the sub in my new VL, but without a sub it is really lacking in sound quality.

Quote: Originally Posted by qwertsta I don't care if it rattles, its a 19 year old car its going to rattle in some places anyway. I just don't want it to snap the welds again. I was also not going to put the sub in my new VL, but without a sub it is really lacking in sound quality. Define sound quality? It's not always about the low frequency mate. If you had rear 6"x9"s, 6"s in the rear doors, 6"s in the front doors with 4"s in the parcel-shelf and a good amplifier to handle the flow, that'd be a great system. Sub's are only there if you want deep notes.

I have clarion 6x9's in the back and pioneers in the front. I'm not molesting my interior and putting speakers in the doors. And your spot on "subs are only there if you want deep notes" thats exactly what is lacking in sound quality. I'm always turning the volume up until the speakers distort.

Quote: Originally Posted by qwertsta I have clarion 6x9's in the back and pioneers in the front. I'm not molesting my interior and putting speakers in the doors. And your spot on "subs are only there if you want deep notes" thats exactly what is lacking in sound quality. I'm always turning the volume up until the speakers distort. Ouch that's not healthy, distorting. Then again like you pointed out, it's also personal preference, I'm o.k. with a nice equal note.

Quote: Originally Posted by qwertsta How would silicne hold the boot lid to the frame thing? Wouldnt it just fall apart?. its been covered before. many people ahve done it including myself. you squeeze silicone/clear liquid nails where the boot frame thing connects to the skin. it then should eliminate alot of the boot skin rattle. i get rattles from my rear bumper all round, number plate, and the boot rattles around the lock area. thats just the rattling on the outside

Ok thanks for that patch, will do in the future. But for some reason my working amp from my pos is not working in my new VL. Got powe coming from the 12v wire and its grounded but the damn power light is not coming on Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

are you sure there is power getting to it and also is your remote wire connected? also make sure you have grounded to bare metal

Yeh I think so. I'm using one of them light things, where you attach the clamp to metal and then I put the spike on the 12v wire and the light comes on.... The previous owner must of had an amp installed at some stage as the car came with the wiring already installed. The POS was sold today so I cant check to see if it still works in that car. If the amp was grounded and there is power coming from the 12v wire the power light on the amp should turn on???

the light should normally only turn on when your radio is on. thats why there is a remote wire. otherwise your amp would be on constantly and drain power