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vlt straight gas?

Started by wpn_vl vbmenu_register("postmenu_1444257", true); · 14 June 2007 · 14 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

hey guys. i'm new here. i'm about to convert my vl turbo to straight gas and i was just wondering which parts i dont need on the car? one of my friends says that i wont need the computer, tps or the afm. he said that the computer only contrtols the fuel when the car has a dizzy setup. is that true? also how would you wire up the gas? if you have to? so i suppose what i'm really asking would be what exactly do i and dont i need? cheers.
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your friend is wrong, the ecu controls the amount of ignition advance and it needs the tps and afm to do this. the only thing you wont need is the ingectors and fuel reg etc. if you wanted to get rid of the ecu etc you could run a carby dizzy off a rb30 nissan patrol, but it would be more stuffing around then its worth.
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so you only get rid of the stuff that actually supplies the fuel. unless you run a carby dizzy. what about twiring it all up to run on straight gas? would it be the same as wiring it up for duel fuel or not? cheers.
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Don't worry about dual fuel if your chasing decent power, it's more trouble than its worth.
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just buy my car farkeeeeeeeeeen :P http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=83390 everything is already done. sell your car and save yaself the money you need standard ecu if thats what you're going to do, and the afm, otherwise there will be no way of the ecu being able to retard timing under load. tps not necessary. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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dont have that kinda money and i'm only the 2nd owner of mine and put alot of effort into it. everything done to mine has been done by me. already got all the gas setup and i'll be installing all of it except for the line from the tank to the convertor. so keep the afm, ecu. and i wont need the tps? does anyone on her know about wiring it up at all? cheers.
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u need the ecu, im not sure about the tps, u DONT need the afm, if u can find sumthing to block the hols from the injectors then u dont need injectors. dnt need fuel tank, pumps, lines etc. thats all i can think of off the top of my head
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Quote: Originally Posted by VLWAGONIT u need the ecu, im not sure about the tps, u DONT need the afm, if u can find sumthing to block the hols from the injectors then u dont need injectors. dnt need fuel tank, pumps, lines etc. thats all i can think of off the top of my head why DONT you need the afm. how on earth do you think the factory ecu will retard the timing if the afm isnt connected?!!!! unless you want to run about 40 deg advance at 15psi....
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Quote: Originally Posted by VPW why DONT you need the afm. how on earth do you think the factory ecu will retard the timing if the afm isnt connected?!!!! unless you want to run about 40 deg advance at 15psi.... when i got mine the afm was stuffed so it only ran on gas. try un pluging the afm on gas it makes no difference
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how hard is it to fit a patrol dizzy? seems like it may be a better option to take? cheers.
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Quote: Originally Posted by wpn_vl how hard is it to fit a patrol dizzy? seems like it may be a better option to take? cheers. they are ****. the points close up in them and you have to use different external modules. dont bother. Quote: Originally Posted by VLWAGONIT when i got mine the afm was stuffed so it only ran on gas. try un pluging the afm on gas it makes no difference did you actualy check this 'no difference' with a timing light, or are you just going by what it sounded like at idle. It wont change the idle timing or anything at all. It will however retard the timing higher in the rpm range. How else do you think the distributor retards timing. you'd be running 40 degrees advance otherwise. I didnt have the afm connected at first either because i was told by people i didnt need it. Car pinged at 2psi due to 40+ degrees of timing and no retarding of timing at all. Put the afm on, and when the car hit -6? i think vac it pulled timing back from about 30 degrees to about 16 degrees which is where i wanted it at on boost. But if you want to run no afm because it makes 'no difference', then be my guess.. just remember the name vlwagonit when you're picking up the pieces of your engine from the ground Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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Quote: Originally Posted by wpn_vl how hard is it to fit a patrol dizzy? seems like it may be a better option to take? cheers. Just leave all the electrics as they are , I've heard of a VB Commodore running an RB30 but I'm not sure if it was turboed or supercharged ,and it was running on straight gas but it had a dizzy off a 280ZX fitted to it from memory. I don't know much about the Patrol and 280ZX dizzys ,but if they did used points , it would be a backward step in reliability , etc. There are standard aftermarket "ignition only" computers but I don't see the point in running one if you've already got the full ECU there. Oh yeah , re - AFM , how's the ECU going to compensate for the ignition advance / retard under different conditions such as under load ,WOT or cruise speeds under light load, different RPM's , etc? It will be like running a carby engine with the Vac hose disconnected from the distributor.
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hey. just wondering if it would be worthwhile to buy this straight gas kit from gra? Kits include the following : Throttle Body, Convertor, Lock-off valve, Adapter, Electric Primer, Brackets, Gaskets, Linkages, and Closed Loop Processor System and Idle Speed Control System where applicable. Holden VL / Nissan RB30 $1014.50 and maybe get a 2nd convertor with it also. that would mean i can sell my whole setup except for the tank. also how do you go about running twin lines of the gas tank? cheers.
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Nissan patrol dizzys are not points in rb30's only on the 4.2's.
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so patrol dizzy would be good? cheers.
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