I am in the process of sorting out my upper and lower controller arms and getting them boxed in as i bent the lower drivers side one last week at the creek i am also getting a plate made up for the inside of the car to weld the upper controller arms to so they dont pull them off the chassis ......
http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=108210
so my question is what else have people done to there rear ends to keep it all together without breaking and twisting the chassis on the launch at the drags i would like people who have done these things to there car to stiffen these items up and are running the times i wanna be running i done a 10.3 and pushing to go lows 9s eventually but anyone got ideas and whats been done to there cars in regards to:
- What brand and type of shocks to be used
- what type of spring and size of springs
- What torsion bars / panhard rods modifications been done
- maybe more things on the upper and lower controller arms
- rear sway bars what size type is it customized
also what people have done with the above to fit the 28x9 inch slicks without scrubbing????
any input appreciated also pics would be great also i just wanna get idea off everyone and see what will be the best option to do on my car so i dont twist my chassis and be worthless afterwards.
Well there are a few simple mods with out going to the full 4 link.
there is a few setups that can work great like the below
Now this can be added with out touch the factory arms leaving stock springs and shock location un touched. The adjustment just moves the bushes as under most take off in the 10sec zone the bush does nothing. I have seen new bushes allow the diff to hit the floor 50mm away and thats with the car set on the bump stops.
Here is a 3 link system it welds to the diff and joins to the trans cross member. like the above the stock lower arms still stay and the shocks 2 but the upper arms will need to be adjustable Chrome Moly with Rose Joint arms.
THe rose joint setup is not strees legal but when it come to times that really goes out the door.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
yeah a 4 link system is great but there are cheaper options these days that also dont require you to cut the car to bits. Depends on how far you want to go and howmuch.
WHat area you in ITG?
Quote:
Originally Posted by furious_8
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Looks like a bit of a mess plus it would not be engineerable. you cannot stop the rear suspension from articulating.
I do these setups picking up off the standard suspension points on the body...as the commodores have good geometry to start.... I don't know what you want to spend but its not exactly cheap......
really don't go too radical.... if your gonna do it do it properly and back half the car!
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
in north shore near ryde nice setups but what i am trying to achieve is the best setup for a car i wanna see what people have done and what works i dont want to go four link rear i wanna try keep the standard upper and lower controller arms the category i am racing in for andra is ozmod which doesnt allow more than a 28x9 tyre and i do believe i can do things without doing a fourlink setup even from a shock and spring setup
there is a bloke in melbourne i believe that sells four link rear setups for any car pre made ready to buy and his got a website anyone got the address forgot the company name he sells pre made cages too and other bits and pieces
that is an awsome setup. looks mint
whats involved in a setup as serious at that?
how much would a setup like urs cost eat-30t?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ITG-05Z
in north shore near ryde nice setups but what i am trying to achieve is the best setup for a car i wanna see what people have done and what works i dont want to go four link rear i wanna try keep the standard upper and lower controller arms the category i am racing in for andra is ozmod which doesnt allow more than a 28x9 tyre and i do believe i can do things without doing a fourlink setup even from a shock and spring setup
there is a bloke in melbourne i believe that sells four link rear setups for any car pre made ready to buy and his got a website anyone got the address forgot the company name he sells pre made cages too and other bits and pieces
ur probably thinkin of mcdonalds bros racing
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
yeh thats what i needed i got two pics which i thought would help solve my problem
http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/antirollbar.html
would that setup stop chassis twist and straighten the rear end up on the launch ??? if installed on a vl? and would that chromoly bar going across absorb the impact when you transbrake the car as i could see that twisting or snapping the bar and i would like to hear from personal expierence as these people think it will work
Quote:
Originally Posted by ITG-05Z
yeh thats what i needed i got two pics which i thought would help solve my problem
http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/antirollbar.html
would that setup stop chassis twist and straighten the rear end up on the launch ??? if installed on a vl? and would that chromoly bar going across absorb the impact when you transbrake the car as i could see that twisting or snapping the bar and i would like to hear from personal expierence as these people think it will work
what tyre pressure you running?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbro
that is an awsome setup. looks mint
whats involved in a setup as serious at that?
how much would a setup like urs cost eat-30t?
This is basically the standard commodore rear suspension with tubular arms...so it is really still standard commodore rear suspension.. only thing on that particular car that throws you off is the fact it has big tyres and its tubbed.
I cant really put a figure on that particular setup its all big $$ components.... you can of course do it cheaper.....
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
what do the uppers actually do ifyou dont mind, and why do they need to be adjustable? i would like to make my streeter have as much traction as possible, but the be able to change it to slide/skid
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Z
what do the uppers actually do ifyou dont mind, and why do they need to be adjustable? i would like to make my streeter have as much traction as possible, but the be able to change it to slide/skid
Well which do you want? Its one or the other really.
Upper arms allow you to adjust the angle between the pinion and the tailshaft so when the car squats upon hard launches the driveline all lines up properly. They can also be setup for drift by pointing the pinion the opposite way.
When on power the front of the diff lifts up and can cause alot of traction problems like tramping because the tail shaft has moved into a really wrong position. Adjusting the upper arms allow you to change the angle so when on power the tail shaft and diff are more in line.
The lower arms also help because the stock arms on a commodore are crap even with aftermarket bushes. Having these installed stops the bottom of the diff pushing forward when under power which also help with the angle. Now rose joints come into play when you have to much power and the Bush's in the arms are moving so much no adjustment will help. Also marks on the under body are a sign also as the control arms hit the floor and the diff yoke also hits the floor.
doing the lower controller arms means you need to go coilovers which i dont wanna do yet thats why i am trying to do other things to avoid it
Alot of people on here know how to get around this but keep things to themselves which i believe is stupid would be good to share ideas thanks to everyone helping so far
You weld another set next to the lower control arm so it runs along side. It can be installed for the strip ans removed for street. It is common with old leaf spring setup but a bracket was bolted under the leaf mount on the diff and then bolted to the chassis in front of the leaf mount. THe same can be done with the commodore but it would sit really low onder the control arm so you run it along side.
