hi guys I'm after someone in the sunhsine coast area or brisbane area that can tune GRA well and someone i can have a chat to over the phone if i need to run a second converter or not... Becuase i have 8PSI (non intercooled) now and wanting to put a big front mount cooler and run 12 - 14psi and i'm not sure if i need a second converter or not and if i can try get away with it i don't wanna run a second one becuase i just don't want that added extra cost.. Thanks to anyone that can recommened someone that is switched on and not just trying to rip people off and give out crap tunes .. Rick.

Quote: Originally Posted by MAV hi guys I'm after someone in the sunhsine coast area or brisbane area that can tune GRA well and someone i can have a chat to over the phone if i need to run a second converter or not... Becuase i have 8PSI (non intercooled) now and wanting to put a big front mount cooler and run 12 - 14psi and i'm not sure if i need a second converter or not and if i can try get away with it i don't wanna run a second one becuase i just don't want that added extra cost.. Thanks to anyone that can recommened someone that is switched on and not just trying to rip people off and give out crap tunes .. Rick. Sorry this is a bit off topic, but do you have any pics of your setup? im interested to see the fittings you use to supply boost pressure to the top of your converter. Im building the crossover pipe to go to my GRA throttle body and am looking for any tips

if your running a b2 generally they support approx 200rwkw

Quote: Originally Posted by vltrb-0 if your running a b2 generally they support approx 200rwkw I've got a single B2 on mine, just wondering how thin my main metering rod will need to be to support 200rwkW. Any ideas on jet sizes and the like on the GRA 440cfm throttle bodies running 6+ pounds boost? (i know timing and temp plays a part but looking for any ideas)

Quote: Originally Posted by 6burner I've got a single B2 on mine, just wondering how thin my main metering rod will need to be to support 200rwkW. Any ideas on jet sizes and the like on the GRA 440cfm throttle bodies running 6+ pounds boost? (i know timing and temp plays a part but looking for any ideas) way too many variables when your boost comes on, timing setting, management etc i can't help u sorry a decent tuner should know where its at

Unless things have changed in the last few years, your only real GRA oprion in Qld is Motsons. Tony Motson's Performance Centre Brisbane 07 3277 7766

Quote: Originally Posted by 6burner Sorry this is a bit off topic, but do you have any pics of your setup? im interested to see the fittings you use to supply boost pressure to the top of your converter. Im building the crossover pipe to go to my GRA throttle body and am looking for any tips http://www.fullboost.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=1902

Something I couldn't find on that link was, If all the air entering the engine should go through the throtle body? meaning that I should block off the AAC valve and possible the roccer cover breather hoses going into the plenum?

i put the bac valve in the bin and deleted the breather back into the cooler pipe when i run the oem plenum setup myself. car has always started straight away and car idles fine.

Quote: Originally Posted by VPW i put the bac valve in the bin and deleted the breather back into the cooler pipe when i run the oem plenum setup myself. car has always started straight away and car idles fine. Well the turbo is on and running , by removing the AAC valve it now runs perfectally with good mixtures throughout the rev range, Ive been told that you need to run retarded timing on LPG because it burns slower, anyone know if this is true Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

what is your timing at idle, and on boost now? is it the factory ecu? there isnt much you can do with it really. if you're on top of the tune set it to about 15 deg adv at idle and see how that works, slowly increase it to about 18 maybe and play around with the plugs too, i had my setup like that when i had the oem ecu/afm on it. Just start with bpr6es ngk plugs (dont get the ones with -11 on the end and then leave the plug gap the way it is) with the aftermarket ecu i run 20 deg advance at idle, and ramp up to 35 deg for the rest of the rev range. Boost retard comes in at 2psi and slowly brings timing down to about 16 deg advance at 15-18psi. I have stock rods and cast pistons, so its a little conservative Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by VPW what is your timing at idle, and on boost now? is it the factory ecu? there isnt much you can do with it really. if you're on top of the tune set it to about 15 deg adv at idle and see how that works, slowly increase it to about 18 maybe and play around with the plugs too, i had my setup like that when i had the oem ecu/afm on it. Just start with bpr6es ngk plugs (dont get the ones with -11 on the end and then leave the plug gap the way it is) with the aftermarket ecu i run 20 deg advance at idle, and ramp up to 35 deg for the rest of the rev range. Boost retard comes in at 2psi and slowly brings timing down to about 16 deg advance at 15-18psi. I have stock rods and cast pistons, so its a little conservative My engine is a stock N/A motor with the stock ECU (only runs the ignition now), I'll check out the timing tonight and see if i can get it to 15deg adv on idle and see how she goes, don't wanny push it too far untill i get the intercooler on. Without it on the dyno i don't know how to check the timing on boost? One of the members on the R31skylineclub can remap the stock ecu ignition so ill have to see what he can do with that before I think about going aftermarket. Cheers for the advice, i'll let you know how it works Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by 6burner My engine is a stock N/A motor with the stock ECU (only runs the ignition now), I'll check out the timing tonight and see if i can get it to 15deg adv on idle and see how she goes, don't wanny push it too far untill i get the intercooler on. Without it on the dyno i don't know how to check the timing on boost? One of the members on the R31skylineclub can remap the stock ecu ignition so ill have to see what he can do with that before I think about going aftermarket. Cheers for the advice, i'll let you know how it works haaaaaaaaang on a second. you've got a stock n/a bottom end and no intercooler. i wouldnt even be running 15 deg at idle then or anything over 6psi boost mate. Dont even risk it or attempt it. Get an intercooler now!! Air temps and then combustion temps with lpg will be huge compared to petrol due to no cooling effect as lpg is already gaseous when it is introduced into the system. As for checking the timing, simply set it to 15 deg advance, then get someone to stall up the car a bit, should be able to get the car up to 0.0 or 1psi in second gear without the car moving with the brakes hard on. This way you will see the timing retard. (you have an n/a ecu anyway same setup as what i had, so you will see the timing retard way before you hit boost anyway) then just make a note of what it is retarding to and that is basically what your 'on boost' timing will be. in regards to 'remapping' the oem ecu, what kind of 'remapping' is it. Can you actually put in different timing amounts for the rev range, and then different timing amounts for it to retard based on what the afm (load) sees? If so, could be a good cheap alternative. But get an intercooler on it NOW.

Quote: Originally Posted by VPW haaaaaaaaang on a second. you've got a stock n/a bottom end and no intercooler. i wouldnt even be running 15 deg at idle then or anything over 6psi boost mate. Dont even risk it or attempt it. Get an intercooler now!! Air temps and then combustion temps with lpg will be huge compared to petrol due to no cooling effect as lpg is already gaseous when it is introduced into the system. As for checking the timing, simply set it to 15 deg advance, then get someone to stall up the car a bit, should be able to get the car up to 0.0 or 1psi in second gear without the car moving with the brakes hard on. This way you will see the timing retard. (you have an n/a ecu anyway same setup as what i had, so you will see the timing retard way before you hit boost anyway) then just make a note of what it is retarding to and that is basically what your 'on boost' timing will be. But get an intercooler on it NOW. I'm grabbing a R32GRT front mount tonight and a plumb back BOV off a mate, i'm running 10 deg before tdc untill I have hooked up the front mount (I know 10 before doesn't ping on the current tune) and trying to stay off boos as much as possible. I'm not sure what the remapping capabilities are but it's worth a look Just so you can better picture my setup Some original photos have not been recovered yet.