hi guys i built a new engine everything was working wen i took it out but now injectors arnt firing they are brand new i cant find the prob please help
Quote:
Originally Posted by idtrp2
hi guys i built a new engine everything was working wen i took it out but now injectors arnt firing they are brand new i cant find the prob please help
you need a detailed description of what you did for us to help you.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
are they pulsing? put a screw driver on the plastic and put your ear on the scew driver you should here it ticking.
if its not ticking check the cas plug first,make sure no wires have broke away from the plug under the boot.
Check for power at the injector plug with the plug off the injrctor. If you have power then thats good. (doesnt matter if ignition is on or not) The injectorsget power from the battery +, directly. negitive is controlled from the ECU. Test while cranking to see if they are fired. If not first place to look is the CAS, especially if it's a ACA brand. Do that and let us know how you go.
Lack of power to the injrcotrs can only be caused by one thing, open curcuit between bat + and injectors. check fuable link and plugs, dont forget plug under inlet, grey 4 pin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BAS
... The injectorsget power from the battery +, directly. negitive is controlled from the ECU.......Lack of power to the injrcotrs can only be caused by one thing, open curcuit between bat + and injectors. check fuable link and plugs, dont forget plug under inlet, grey 4 pin.
The injector supply is fed via the reverse polarity relay near the battery. As it's a changeover relay, the relay contacts are normally closed all of the time and as result they can get dirty (the arcing that happens when contacts operate helps clean them) and go open circuit.
The 4 pin grey plug under the inlet is easy to miss when plugging everything back in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MonstaS4
The injector supply is fed via the reverse polarity relay near the battery. As it's a changeover relay, the relay contacts are normally closed all of the time and as result they can get dirty (the arcing that happens when contacts operate helps clean them) and go open circuit.
The 4 pin grey plug under the inlet is easy to miss when plugging everything back in.
MY BAD! , but never seen relay phuck up. unless system been spiked.
Also if you have fitted a Haltech E6X do a output test.
Then check for power at the reverse polarity relay near the battery. It has a black/white wire, an orange, and 2 x red/blacks.
Check for 12v on the orange wire. If it's got 12v, then there is a break in the wire/plug off between the relay and injectors.
If it doesn't have 12v, then check either of the red/black wires at the relay for 12v. If you have power on the red/black, the relay is stuffed. Make sure you replace it with a changeover relay - none of the relays in the fusebox are suitable.
If you have no power on the red/black, then one of the fusible links has blown.
hahaha lol I changed my oil and filter once and when I pulled the filter out I knocked the plug apart that goes from under the inlet plenum and is joined into the loom that connects to the alternator and joins to the ecu loom it supplies your power so it would be worth having a look at it is grey and looks similar to the one that plugs into the alternator if you don't have the injector style plug on your alternator.
I'm not trying to be a prick here, but have you physically taken a hose off and made sure the feed hose does NOT go to the regulator? It's a common mistake thinking that the fuel pressure is regulated before going into the rail. I'm just a little sceptical after the comment below ......
Quote:
Originally Posted by idtrp2
checked all plugs everything is pluged in anything thing else i may have missed?
Golden rule of troubleshooting....never assume anything.
Is your ignition timing set somewhere in the ballpark of 15deg BTDC?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.