Hi, Here is my guide to removing the door locks on your VL. *Note*: This is a guide only and I will not be held responsible for any damage you do to your car. Step One: Take the door trim off as well as the weather strip and anti-theft plate. Step Two: Take the lock out of the door. Step Three: This is the tricky yet important part: Get a piece of metal pipe slightly larger than the lock hole but not too much larger. You may need to fix a block or soemthing to the end of the pipe (the end you're hitting) and with one quick sharp hit you want to punch a neat circle of metal inwards to give you some meat to work with. Step Four: Block off the hole from the inside of the door with some cardboard or something similar. Step Five: Rub back the working area to bare metal. Step Six: Fill the ring you have pushed in with fibreglass so that it is flush with the rest of the door. Step Seven: Once the fibreglass is dry pull the cardboard out and generously apply fibreglass on the inside of the door to give it strength and also to make sure it doesnt crack etc. Make sure you rub back the area inside the door first. Thats the inside finished. Step Eight: Sand the area flat and fill with polyester bog to get it perfectly flush with the rest of the door. Step Nine: You're done and it's ready for paint. Remember you will need central locking at least with a remote or have it hooked up to your alarm remote. It is also wise to relocate your battery to the boot so you have access to it in case the battery goes flat. There are other ways to do it but this is an easier way and something you can do yourself with general panelbeating skills. It worked for me, I had no dramas and the outcome was perfect. Finished... Antho... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

thats a sweet artical mate, thanks for the write up

Do you have photos of the cardboard/bogging part? great article by the way

The way i did it was to get a welder to weld a metal plate in from the inside then take it to the panel beaters and they fill it and paint. IMO i think this would be easier, it only took him about 5 minutes a side to weld the plate on.

welding the plate on would be better if you can afford it, otherwise expect cracks or surface deformation to occur at some point in time. Good article if you wanna do it on the cheap tho !

yer this is a good cheap way to do it. but i dont like the idea of smashing in the hole with a bit of pipe. i see tears when people try this themself. do it properly and get it welded,

If you do it properly then it won't crack at all. If you get a plate welded to the inner door skin then all the panelbeater does is fill the rest in with bog anyway, and if he doesn't do it properly then that way will crack also.

Top article Antho Work Bro - Much Respect. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i shaved my passenger lock last week at work this is how it turned out plate welded in bogged over Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

comes up smicko hay.. i love the door locks shaved. looks hot. Also do this for your antanna Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

[IMG]http://[img=http://thumb3.webshots.net/t/48/48/2/15/83/372321583BKkeqF_th.jpg] (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/1372321583072496803BKkeqF)[/IMG] Here are mine these where welded in 97 no cracks car has been redone since that photo.

dodgy as just filling it in with bog in about 5 years the bog will fall through and you will be back to where you started do it the right way stick a piece of sheet metal behind the skin and weld it up stoneguard the inside of the skin so it doesnt rust then after welding and grinding it flat then bog over and polyester better to do i \t once and once only sorry to hijack the post but just thought u should know