Just wondering if anyone has an informed opinion on the various brands/types of oils available these days?
After reading Street Commodores recently it would seem most of the 'Big Name' performance brands like Elf, Motul, Redline etc aren't all theyre cracked up to be....
I dont know if anyone read the article but they used a Timken bearing test machine and measured the load they were able to place on the bearing before the oil film was broken and bearing damage resulted....
Is there more to oils than just pure film strength (as this is pretty much all this test determined), I figure things like fuel dilution, the combustion process, heat etc would all play a part in how long an oil will or will not protect for...
Most interesting was the Valvoline Dura-Blend oil which outperformed all but the most expensive oils tested (ie Royal Purple...).
Any thoughts anyone? Is the test even relevant to what oils experience during normal use?
I had a good read of that artical, not bad read, some of the oils didnt perform too good.. specially motul for the money.
That valvoline suprised me too, thats what I was using before I read it.
mate i used the penrite syth.5 5w-60 very very nice but my motors fresh dunno about those older one's
and i just changed it to penrite SIN'10' 10w-70 i was talking to the guy autobarn and i know what your going to say he has no qlue but this guy knows his **** in every thing back to front and he seid if i wanted some thing the same as the 5w-60 but a bit thinker cause the VL is an older designed motor go with the SIN stuff it's there new top of the range for penrite.
here's a link with the same sort of stuff "oils ant oils"
http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...hlight=penrite (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=79975&highlight=penrite)
theres a good discusion going on this thread about the test and i post the top ten i think?
it was an interesting article but they didnt test the oil that i use(TORCO fully synthetic oil) so i dont know how it compares to the others in the test.
]I used to use redline 40wt race, but now redline 30wt race oil.
my engine guy (30 years building and engine dynoing race engines, his engines are always front running/winning in all forms of motorsport) has tried it all on all kinds of race engines over the years, he sends his oil samples after a dyno session to get chemically analysed etc. and what you see after a race meet physically and in the test results is nothing like what these 'load machine' tests conclude.
you cant beat real world results.
kendal, redline, mobil-1, royal purple are all top quality race oils that stand up to the true tests.
Yeah thats the sort of reply I was looking for, cheers....I figure Street Commos may have a lawsuit or two on their hands because thats really bad advertising for some big name oil companies in that test....
Quote:
Originally Posted by wluckie30
it was an interesting article but they didnt test the oil that i use(TORCO fully synthetic oil) so i dont know how it compares to the others in the test.
Torco race oils seem to protect well, but man do they discolour fast, have you found that?
Out of curiosity what motul oil did they test?
Turbolight, 8100 or 300v?
No matter what oil if you were to run without oil pressure (as this test did) good bye motor.
Head over to www.bobistheoilguy.com (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com) and check out a few voa and uoa's.
With regards to oil looking black, if it looks black its doing its job, that being suspending crap in the oil instead of leaving it in the motor.
Hey Guys
I am an Industrial Chemist (qualified) and worked for some major oil companies and for laboratories.
NZVLCT is right on the money. Getting the oils tested at service intervals or after dynos, can give us supporting evidence as to what type of lubrication the oil is doing.
We can determine physical characteristics such as Viscosity, Viscosity Index, aswell as chemical characteristics, such as Additives (moly)etc
Oils are made up of Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphorus and Zinc.
Just because the oil is the most expensive, doesn't make it the most appropriate oil to use. More expensive oils MAY cause damage to your motors than good. The only reason why they are more expensive is
- REFINING TECHNIQUES: more costly and purer
- BRAND NAME
If people want to get their oils checked for wear metals, viscosity, viscosity index, oxidation, etc etc
I offer this service and i you want anymore info on oils PM me
Cheers
Tarek
RACESPEC
Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ VLCT
Torco race oils seem to protect well, but man do they discolour fast, have you found that?
not too sure yet as i have only changed to this oil about 5000km ago and i am about to do the first oil change since doing so. i will let u know how it comes up
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubes
With regards to oil looking black, if it looks black its doing its job, that being suspending crap in the oil instead of leaving it in the motor.
Im of the understanding that oil in a gasoline engine only looks black cause its being contaminated by carbon deposits on the cylinder wall that remain after combustion. Is it 1 of the oils duties to remove as much carbon as possible? Doesnt excessive carbon contamination cause greater wear elsewhere in the engine(bearings ets)? Does any1 have any views on Gulf Western oils. Ive heard a real mixed bag of reports.
i actually sent a e-mail to penrite about the new SIN '10' 10w-70 cause from a lot of people i was hearing that oilis way to thick at working temp this is what i got back:
Hi Phil
Thank you for the inquiry. What you have heard is unfortunately all too
common by people that do not understand oil and viscosity. Oil cannot be
too thick at operating temp as it has thinned out so much from when it
is cold. The only time an oil can be too thick is when you first start
the engine and the oil is cold. This oil would be ideal in the Nissan RB30ET.
Drop them another email asking if their oil is a GRP III or GRP IV based oil. Essentially what you are after is a minimum of a PAO based synthetic oil.
