Hey all, Have just come back from another trip to thew tune shop to correct my tune set up, due to a set of fouled up plugs. After adjusting the cold start maps (just a tad leaner) & cleaning up & adjusting the gaps to .7mm they said everything else looked fine & I should have no probs. The F*#kin thing is starting to miss again..especially on wide open throttle & at the top end of the rev range. Heres my specs: Plugs....... NGK irriway 7 (irridium plug #7 heat range) Standard ignition, bosch coil & bosch 8mm leads (all checked to be fine) EMS stinger computer piggybacked on to my standard ecu. 550cc injectors Running 12 psi What combination works well with these motors. Im sorry if this has been all covered before, but I cant believe that this should happen. There must be a combination that doesnt result in blackened sparklers. Im wonderin whether irridiums are too sensitive to richer fuel mixtures needed in forced induction engines. Is this a common prob with the RB30T?? Has any 1 had any success with a different type of plug...bosch etc? cheers

Try some standard NGKs like you suggested, did you gap the existing plugs yourself? Usually they'd foul up at idle as I know BTs car was doing this (550cc Injectors and a Haltech) but once he gassed it, it would clear up...Does the EMS perhaps have some sort of Boost Cut programmed into it? Does it only miss up top or at idle aswell?

Quote: Originally Posted by Wyndup Try some standard NGKs like you suggested, did you gap the existing plugs yourself? Usually they'd foul up at idle as I know BTs car was doing this (550cc Injectors and a Haltech) but once he gassed it, it would clear up...Does the EMS perhaps have some sort of Boost Cut programmed into it? Does it only miss up top or at idle aswell? At the moment it only misses at full throttle & above 4-4500rpm. However it gives a slight hicup on idle every now & then. Was the same as first time. Can bet my b#@ls it will get worse. Before it went back to tune shop...it wouldnt clear itself at all...a constant misfire. As for the boost cut...I havent been told of 1..it wasnt doin this when the plugs were new. This problem was gradual. Was also wondering if a spark amplifier or higher performance coil would help. Any 1 recommend any.

get NGK plugs. Everytime I have heard of someone on here using them they have had issues. Just try NGK cheapo's and if it doesnt work then hey you've only done $24 instead of the countless other dollars you will spend if its not that!

get ngk bcpr6es-11 plugs, couple of bucks each, and a little hotter (standard heat rating) will help burn the carbon and crap off.

You could try a Bosch EB-ED falcon coil, i put one on mine, we had a spark analyser on it at the time and it made an absolutely HUGE difference over the 20yr old factory Nissan coil...the output difference was massive and the car idled much smoother. Coil was like $60 or so and requires a few minor changes to the wiring as they use a different connector, give it a go.

Increase your gap a little more. I had the same trouble after installing a new set or NGK plugs that were gapped shorter than my old "gapped down" ones. Missed heaps at idle, then I increased the gap a little and it mostly went away.

Quote: Originally Posted by Wyndup You could try a Bosch EB-ED falcon coil, i put one on mine, we had a spark analyser on it at the time and it made an absolutely HUGE difference over the 20yr old factory Nissan coil...the output difference was massive and the car idled much smoother. Coil was like $60 or so and requires a few minor changes to the wiring as they use a different connector, give it a go. any more info on this wyndup?? sounds like a worthwhile mod... what exactly is involved in fitting it?? just splicing old wires into new connector or something else??

Yeah mate thats it, they have a different connector so chop off the old one and solder on the new one, easy. Small mod required to the mounting bracket-you just need to drill 2 holes in it as they aren't spaced correctly-easy! Im not exaggerating the difference either, it was massive. Unless my coil was on its last legs...but if yours is the 20yr old Nissan one like mine was its probably a worthy simple little mod.

Why are you gapping them to .7 for 12psi? And yeah, steer clear of iridi. Waste of money. All it takes is a dodgy fuel reg and you've wasted a fortune. Good old coppers are whats best

I agree. Gaps are too small. Try pulling them back to 1.0 - 1.1 mm. No reason the gaps should be closed up that much only running 12 psi!

Quote: Originally Posted by Wyndup Yeah mate thats it, they have a different connector so chop off the old one and solder on the new one, easy. Small mod required to the mounting bracket-you just need to drill 2 holes in it as they aren't spaced correctly-easy! Im not exaggerating the difference either, it was massive. Unless my coil was on its last legs...but if yours is the 20yr old Nissan one like mine was its probably a worthy simple little mod. just finishing doing this mod.. was a bit of a prick making up new connectors as i just went and bought a brand new bare coil from bursons ($40, ED falcon) hence had no connector to suit to even connect the old wires to..had to get a new spark lead to suit the new coil too.. ended up using my macguyver skills to fashion a plug out of some audio connectors and an old computer power supply.. haha ghetto but it worked.. as for the result.. well the car might be idling a touch smoother but it could just be placebo effect.. maybe theres no difference at all however at least i know im not gonna have any spark issues for a while so its good for peace of mind knowing i have a brand new coil on there capable of bigger spark than the standard 20 year old one that was on there i suppose for the money you can't go wrong if you don't know how old or what condition your coil is in

Quote: Originally Posted by entropy just finishing doing this mod.. was a bit of a prick making up new connectors as i just went and bought a brand new bare coil from bursons ($40, ED falcon) hence had no connector to suit to even connect the old wires to..had to get a new spark lead to suit the new coil too.. ended up using my macguyver skills to fashion a plug out of some audio connectors and an old computer power supply.. haha ghetto but it worked.. as for the result.. well the car might be idling a touch smoother but it could just be placebo effect.. maybe theres no difference at all however at least i know im not gonna have any spark issues for a while so its good for peace of mind knowing i have a brand new coil on there capable of bigger spark than the standard 20 year old one that was on there i suppose for the money you can't go wrong if you don't know how old or what condition your coil is in Just went & bought the same coil & paid same price. The chap behind the counter pointed out that the conector needed for this coil is an injector plug... spot on fella... only $5. These coils, by the way have the same catalog listing as the EA-ED V8's. Im also going to revert back to the standard plugs. See how we go. Cant believe these so called experts recommend these mods. It was Silverwater Automotive that did the plug selection & the last gap setting. Still think that the ECU isnt set properly tho... If it was supplying the engine with the correct Air/Fuel ratio (12:1..yes??) this would not be happening. Ive had a look at the plugs myself & they were black as. Why would my mates Xr6T running the same plugs, that has a nizpro flash tune & running 10 psi (280rwkw) have no hint of trouble??? He himself watched Simon obtain 12-12.5:1 A/F ratio right through the power band. Im guessing that close enuf is good enuf for some of these wallys. Love to learn how to program ECU's. Anyone know where we can learn??

It won't have anything to do with WOT afr's, unless they are simply super rich. But It may have a little to do with how long it takes to get up to operating temp, idle cruise afr's and warmup procedure. Using a genuine thermostat brings it up to temp real quick once driving. I'm not a believer in warmups, get in and drive it with low rpm shift points, its up to temp within minutes, also reduces the chance of plug foul. I run 7's in mine BKR7E, they are the vgroove/v power plug and gapped at 0.8mm and limp it around 99% of the time. The NGK Copper BKR7E plugs will be fine in the RB30ET, its the next step up from BCPR6E plugs we usually run in our RB's.