hey all,
got a steam pipe manifold. its got some bad lips on the inside where some welding has protruded into the runners. does anyone know if there are any places in qld that do power porting or is only specialised power porting down south. do you think it will effect my flow with say 2mm lips where some pipes dont line up. has anyone else out got a manifold where they can see/feel lips or any roughness inside there manifolds. will post pics to help explain when i get around but just open to options on how to smooth out my runners that are out of my reach.
thanks heaps
nick
Very important to get rid of those bits, small parts could break away under the extreme heat and forces, just imagine what a 2mm bit of steam pipe will do to your exhaust wheel. Try to get in with a dye grinder, what ever you have or can get into it with.
good point but its actually overlap from one steam pipe to another. no chance of it breaking off but just really restricitve i reackon. ive got die grinders, 90degree die grinders, all the **** under the sun but that doesnt help down in the runners. its all gonna get sandblasted and a hpc coating inside and out so i was just wondering if that hpc coating will smooth out any lips. by that i mean just build up in places to smooth out a chamfer or something. no chance probably. just concerned as ive got the 35/40, custom intake, complete forged engine and major head work. whats the point in having all that when i have a severly restricited manifold. its in an lc torana so not as easy as just buying one off the shelf and im just a stingy c*nt when i can make my own i guess.
sorry bout lthe life story
nick
this is my build about 3 months ago during the trial fitting before painting everything but just shows how close the turbo sits to the rails.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Looks good mate can I see a pic of it all painted up? Ive seen a manifold just like the one your talking about, and the mechanics were pretty dodgy with it in terms of if somthing did break off. Small chance but a chance non the less I think anyway, Doesnt look like a lot of room in there hey. I think power porting is more for castings, smoothes out the rough finish not sure how well it would work on such a strong metal, also hpc coating might smooth it out a little but the build up would also make the inside diameter of the pipe smaller aswell and build up on the over laps of the pipe. I would be trying to get as much off as possible if it were mine, just depends on the build you have done so far how much paitience you have left and if you will be happy knowing its not 100%.
bulls eye, mate thats it. i wont be able to sleep at night knowing everything is absolutly perfect except for the manifold. knowing the ports are rough and the potential power loss and amount of restriciton will just piss me off. maybie i should talk to kyle (6boost about making a replica of mine). ill get a pic of it 2moro so you can see what i mean. just wish there was a place up here as i got quoted bloody $600 for power porting down south. would go buy one off 6boost for that plus a bit more. just dont wanna spend the money ay.
nick
Yeah I hear you, power porting is far from cheap. Thats why I havent done it. The main point to my last post was to make you want to fix it as I can see it would be a bit of work you have put into the car shame to be let down over something so silly.
Cheers mate put some pics of the car and stuff up I want to see.
if you can weld, make one up yourself. count on the first one being crap though.
i did mine and the only place it had lips like you speak of was in the collector (unavoidable) and at the junction of the primary pipes to the flange (round pipes, oval RB25 ports, again unavoidable). they were all very easy to die grind off.
if some of your pipe joins have 2mm lips in them, i'd throw the manifold away. that means if your wall thickness is 2.4mm like mine is, you have 0.4mm of steel there which has actually bonded through the weld. the weld has most likely protruded through the join as well, which is not good.
edit: BTW if you want one done cheap, i need some spare cash. it would take me a week or two to finish though. it would also be stick welded, same as mine. it won't look or perform quite as well as one of 6BOOST's manifolds but it will cost you half as much.
hey stocky.
prob exaggerated on the 2 mm lips but i can feel some down the runners. my merge and inlet ports are as smooth as a babies bum and are really quite good. looks the same as a 6boost one, but thats not what im worried about, its down the runners. think ill pass on your stick welded manifold and just make another one. i just take it to work to be tig welded but tack it myself. will get a pic of my 1st attemp up.
cheers
nick
nick
ur car looks mad as dude , well done.
with the edges your worried about are they, how do i explain this , with the air coming from the head towards the turbo , is the edge going to be hit by the air or is the air going to roll over the edge.
it'll do both andy, because if you move the pipe off one way it won't line up on the opposite side
LJ MAN - go for it if you can tack it up yourself and get it TIG'd! they aren't as hard as they look. pay the most attention to the collector.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
cheers mate,
heres a pic, the pic does it no justice but it does look quite good in real life. yeah the collector i pretty good with no ridges or roughness what so ever. just down inside the runners where some dont line up 2 well. just start again i think. am quite happy with my 1st attmp so the 2nd should be pretty good. thanks for your help.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
looks good, i would have angled the collector merge pipes in on a less acute angle if possible - but it'll do the job. lining the buggers up perfectly is time consuming hey! but well worth it in the end.
Mine from 6BOOST. A little bit better clearance.
I would run yours then fix it up later when everything else is sorted.
You might get some issues when the engine torques up as well. Im a bit worried about the turbo or manifold hitting the side of the engine bay or even the intake manifold hitting the bonnet when it torques up and twists.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
the engine torques the other way, she'll be right. recoil back on gear changes is the only thing that might be a problem, but it'd have to be pretty darn close (1cm) to hit even then.
dansedgli :the turbo has a good 25mm clearance from the rails and the manifold has a good 70mm. no chance on it hitting anything. i dont see what you mean by the intake hitting the bonnet. its way off and if anything is going to hit it will be my booster which is still in original position. would go the option of buying one off 6boost but the fact that ive made everything myself like shortened my own diff, made my own rails, own mounts, cross member,surge tank, fuel tank, dash, sump even made my own intake until i realised thats a bit risky and prob fu8k all my internals hence buying one off arial.
stocky: yeah mate on my 2nd attemp i think ill angle them in a bit more but its bloody hard getting those 6 pipes to merge into that T3 flange ay.
ahh well back to the shed to make another fu*er. might put this one ebay, hahaha.
cheers
nick
