Hi all... Could someone please tell me where the afm is and how to test its working? do i have to do a computer fault test? if so how is this done? Thankyou in advance.

afm is the black thing with wires plugged in attatched to the air box and the intake pipes. ecu can kinda test it to a degree but there are better ways. i think using a multimeter or switching it with another is the easiest way.

AFM is on the right hand side of the engine bay, right of the radiator (when looking from in front)...It is bolted onto the air box, has one plug in the side of it...Take that plug out, get a multimeter, set it to read 'ohm', place one rod on the first pin (pin 1) and the other rod on the last pin (pin 6), you should get a reading of 384ohm resistance between the pins. If this is not the case, there is a screw on the side of the AFM, get a screwdriver and play with the screw until you get the reading of 384ohm. But as said above, your better just swapping it with a mates AFM...quick and easy

Another thing to know about these AFM's you cannot judge it by looking at it, these are only throw away item's when there lifespan is over! If the metal wire inside is burnt then your VL will run like a pig even though the wire might not look burned when you look at it.

i got the best way! start ya car and unplug your AFM if u car idles better than ur AFM is rooted simple

ye thats one way and multimeter is the other way umm if it has trouble idling from cold or starting, its ****ed if when accellerating its gutless till about 2000+-200rpm then power comes in immediatly its ****ed as thats when the o2 sensor comes in to fix the mixtures you can clean it with nonlube exectrical contact cleaner, $10 at jaycar also might have to very very carfully scrape blash **** off with a toothebrush or something but if you snap the wire its ****ed for good

If AFM is rooted setting it with multimeter wont do much as it's ready to throw away in the bin.

what pins the out put for the ecu on the afm??

its probably been discussed a hundred times on here before, but when testing the resistance(ohms)on the AFM with a multimeter, when the resistance is supposed to read 384ohms does the car have to be turned off or the accessories on or what ?

doesn't have to be on to test resistance ignition key on (motor off though) to test voltage

how much is a new afm. thanks Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by V-Spec if when accellerating its gutless till about 2000+-200rpm then power comes in immediatly its ****ed as thats when the o2 sensor comes in to fix the mixtures Call me pedantic, but isn't it the reverse of this? Under 2000 rpm the ecu is in closed loop mode and the O2 sensor is trying to correct the already incorrect signal from the AFM. Above 2000rpm the ecu goes into open loop mode and reverts back to a base fuel map because the afm is faulty.

what is the true ohm setting? some say 382, others say 384, I've even seen 386...which one is it?

Quote: Originally Posted by Henry what is the true ohm setting? some say 382, others say 384, I've even seen 386...which one is it? which ever one your car runs best on p.s 384