If your fuel gauge has been playing up when it reads 1/4 or lower than this may help.. this was done on a std Berlina dash with s2calais inserts OK to the fix tools required 1. remove the dash from the vehicle follow the following link to help with removal. removing dash link (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=19257&highlight=removing+dash) 2. remove the upper indicator lights (low batty blinkers etc etc) there are 5 screws as out lined in the following pic 3.remove the clear cover on the dash, there are 4 screws up top and 4 screws down low as per the following pic 4. this next picture shows the dash with the clear cover and lights removed, it also shows the next step in removing the tacho needle, i used a fork. the digital camera died at this point, so don't mind the blue drawing. the blue is where the fork would go. u can also see little marks, they polish off easily and can not be seen when reinstalled, also the orange circles are the 2 screws to un do as well, the small screw drivers works a treat, $2.95 from coles (yes i know 9oclock i bought them tho) 5.OK the next step is to turn the dash over (carefully) and remove the small nut retaining the oil pressure gauge in. once nut is off pres lightly and the gauge unit will pop out 6.should now look like this the 2 clips can now be pushed out. 7.now these clips are what we are after, they need to be bent so a good contact can be achieved. this is what they are meant to look like. sorry about the pic i took about 40 and this is the best these clips have to be bent toward each other and also the wing part, circled in blue here, they need to be bent toward the point 8. reinstall gauge unit making shore the clips are back in place and look like they are making good contact if not repet.... 9. replace the clear cover and light unit. re fit back to vehicle... 10. thank you for reading this and i hope this helps you Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

do you know what that little transistor looking thing is. you have it circled in one of the pics. what does it do?

Good job mate. Could a Mod resize the pics though?

i tried it, my fuel guage still dont work properly, but my oil pressure stays on now lol it use to go to zero on idle, and then go to normal as i accelerated, now it stays on... wierd

probably means its screwed..

what was your fuel gauge doing before you did this? My car runs out as soon as it goes below a 1/4

this fix probley wont work for all and was meant for a starting point its for when the gauge drops out when the tank level hits approx 1/4 its due to Resistance over the 2 pins that blue circle around the transistor type thing, its the voltage regular i think its what keeps the dash at a constant voltage the circle wasn't meant to be on that diagram and has no relevance

cool. i tried to fix mine but didnt work. mine will drop to zero no matter how full the tank is. it is very intermittent and will drop down to zero and back constantly, but when it reads it is pretty accurate. when you knock the dash it will come back up again. but not always. i might try and run a new wire from the plug directly to the back of the guage and see if that fixes it.

my fuel guage sometimes shows how much fuel i actually have, other times it shows less then what i do have... or sometimes it goes completely to empty... so who knows...very annoying though

had the same prob with ours. pulled the pcb off and reflowed the soldered joints as they had gone dry. found they were all cracked around the pins. reflowed em all fuel guage now works perfect and am actually getting a spped sensor signal so the box is now working properly too. good result for an hours work!

What I did today is remove the PCB and solder a new wire from the pin connection on the pcb to the part that the fuel guage goes into. This bypasses all the ciruitry on the pcb and it seems to work well now. only went on a 20min drive though. I also soldered the thread for the gauge to the points on the pcb so it has a really good contact. The only problem now is when i go around corners the needle moves abit about the width of the neede. I am not sure if this is caused by the fuel moving sideways in the tank or thether it is lateral force on the guage.

thats a better idea, tho i stumbled apon the way i fixed mine cause i had a play fitting the s2 Calais inserts. as above pic would be better, now where is my soldering iron

Quote: Originally Posted by VL_Nick What I did today is remove the PCB and solder a new wire from the pin connection on the pcb to the part that the fuel guage goes into. This bypasses all the ciruitry on the pcb and it seems to work well now. only went on a 20min drive though. I also soldered the thread for the gauge to the points on the pcb so it has a really good contact. The only problem now is when i go around corners the needle moves abit about the width of the neede. I am not sure if this is caused by the fuel moving sideways in the tank or thether it is lateral force on the guage. did u find it works better now than ever? this is what i was on about but i just didnt have the time and i couldnt find my iron and i think the needel now moves cause its more sensitive and runs better, do u find it moves more up the top end of the tank or anywhere

i havent had a chance to test it properly yet, only been on a 20 min drive where it didnt drop to zero once, but it wavers around when i go around corners. when i turn left it moves to the right a little bit and vice versa. once i fill it up and go through a tank i will know for sure if it fixed the problem. now onto the oil pressure gauge. pretty sure its the sender though.

interesting what youve done vl nick... what exactly is the PCB ? from the pictures i know exactly what to do... im keen to try this because my guage is farked still , hardly ever works

PCB = printed circuit board

ahhh.. thanks.. i will give your method a go, hope it fixes it ill let ya know

ok, when i got back from the cruise i had a go at your idea vl nick went for a 10 minute drive when i was done...guage did not turn off once... noticed movement around corners... but once i straightened up the guage went back to normal... fuel went down a little when i floored it... then went back to normal when i drove normally... so far it seems its fixed...thanks alot man, it was really getting on my nerves my guage barely ever worked, now its staying on

cool, glad to know i could help. I have been on more of a drive now and mine is the same. it hasnt dropped once. This seems to be the problem that causes it. just a dodgy circuit board. Everyone should try this if they have a dodgy gauge, which means anyone with a VL. lol