Instrument Shroud Bracket Replacement Guide By Avster This mod is fairly simple, so long as you are proficient in using small hand tools. As there is some cutting and filing of plastic components. So, head out to **** smiths electronics and buy 2 small plastic utility boxes (cat no H-2921), they are only $3 each so feel free to buy a spare in case you stuff one whilst cutting or filing. I have another use for the spare one, but that will be another mod. Go to a model shop and get a tube of Testors model glue, or any other suitable glue for plastics. Ok, you have your boxes. Take the lid off and put in a safe place (but remember where you put it!), now grab your favourite hacksaw and cut off the extra bits that hang off each end. Then cut the boxes in half. File the ends flat where the extra bits were hanging out (but leave rough for the glue), the ends will become the tops of the brackets. The bottom of the box will become the front where the hole has to be cut out. The sides of the box make the structural sides of the brackets. So now cut of half of the sides of each bracket diagonally. Look at the next pic to see what I mean. Now you have your bracket in it�s final shape. Next find the centre of the front of the bracket, where the hole will be cut, by measuring the height and halving the figure. This will give you the centre horizontal line where to drill. Next measure from the top down to 12mm and draw a line across (top boundary for hole), then measure down to 18mm and draw a line (bottom boundary). Now, you need a centre line to measure the side boundaries for the hole. The width of the hole should be at least 14mm. Now, if you want a very precise job, just drill one bracket at a time and file out the rectangular hole. But don�t start drilling and filing yet, you need to read on. The front side was the bottom of the box before it was cut up. You will see in the next pic I have four lines or boundaries for the hole. Start with a 2mm drill bit then use a 5mm bit. In the pic below, looking at the bracket pictured, the top surface facing away is the top surface that will be glued to the instrument shroud. If you haven�t removed the instrument shroud, do it now. Then pull out the instrument cluster. Put the shroud back so you can finish filing out the holes in the brackets. You can now use the shroud in place to file out your holes to match each moulding on the dash pad. This is the best way to get an accurate hole in the bracket. So go ahead and start filing if your in a hurry like I was. Here is my first bracket in place and glued in. As you file out the hole, continually try it under the shroud for hole size and positioning. You need to file out the hole to suit the height of the shroud above. Label each bracket as you make them, as they won�t fit in different spots. LH outer, LH inner, etc. I used Testors mode glue for this as it tends to melt the surface of most plastics so it can be welded to each other. But if you have a preference for another glue then fill ya boots!  #2 goes in. #3 goes in. And #4 goes in. This one is a good example why you should drill your holes one bracket at a time, file it out and test it as you go. My no 4 bracket needed the hole higher than the rest and the hole ended up too long. This will give me an example on how to fix this and not throw your modded shroud away yet. Now for some gratuitous plugging of calaisturbo.com.au, oh and the finished job, just waiting for the glue to dry. I will get back to you on fixing the oversized hole soon. So there you have your shroud that doesn�t make those annoying noises from the loose metal bracket! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I'm not too happy with my pics, so I will take some pics of it again during the day so you can see the detail and out line of the brackets. It's a bit hard to make out exactly where to cut and drill from those pics.

looks good mate, i might try it as i have no metal strip for some reason...

what does this actually do?

yeah if you havent gotthe metal strip.. its obviously been out before and has been removed.. I havea frigggin rattle in my dash somewhere.. (ive pulled it all apart hopefully to find it) andi still cant.. im thinking it may just be due to not having th actual metal bracket in it.. aaaaaaaanyhoo... nice article dude..

Quote: Originally Posted by BADVLSL yeah if you havent gotthe metal strip.. its obviously been out before and has been removed.. I havea frigggin rattle in my dash somewhere.. (ive pulled it all apart hopefully to find it) andi still cant.. im thinking it may just be due to not having th actual metal bracket in it.. aaaaaaaanyhoo... nice article dude.. ahh got ya now. wouldnt it be easier to just get the strip from the wreckers or just make one!

Quote: Originally Posted by VLHERO ahh got ya now. wouldnt it be easier to just get the strip from the wreckers or just make one! Um, thats what my article is all about. Good luck glueing metal to plastic.

i love the inconspicuous placement of the calais turbo membership card!

Quote: Originally Posted by AVSTER I'm not too happy with my pics, so I will take some pics of it again during the day so you can see the detail and out line of the brackets. It's a bit hard to make out exactly where to cut and drill from those pics. Scratch my last comment about the pics. The computers at work are crap!

Quote: Originally Posted by AVSTER Um, thats what my article is all about. Good luck glueing metal to plastic. My metal strip fell off so I glued it back on with Sikaflex. Good luck getting it off!

Quote: Originally Posted by VLHERO My metal strip fell off so I glued it back on with Sikaflex. Good luck getting it off! Oh ok. I thought there wasn't much out there that could glue metal to plastic successfully. I stand corrected Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

lol i think sikaflex will stick anything together.

Guys I just did mine with sikaflex, saved all the mucking around making plastic tabs, I reakon the dash panel would break before the sikaflex let go, its good stuff.

yep sikaflex all the way