Here is a rough guide to installing a cooler kit from JSPEC. I opted for the air flow meter after the cooler. I kept the 2 inch diameter after the turbo and increasing to 3 inch before the cooler entry, then 3 inch the rest of the way. Excuse the dirty engine bay as I had just removed the turbo which was missing for most of the photos. And I have to mention that the piping kit is from JSPEC but the cooler is from Sir5.7, as JSPEC were out of coolers when I ordered. Both quality products. PART 1. Remove your front bumper, the strip between the bumper and head lights and the grill. To remove front bumper I took out the two bolts holding the bumper bracket to the engine bay wall. And the two 10mm bolts inside the guard holding the sides in. Also a Phillips head screw at the front wheel edge. The whole bumper can just slide out then. Make sure you disconnect the horn. Make sure you store the bumper out of the road and in a safe place where it won't get damaged or twisted. Your strip will just pull out then. And the two screws that hold in the grill. This will give you access to all the bolts for the headlights. I had to turn my lights on then pull the fuse for the head lights themselves as well as the pop ups motor, so I could remove the lights out through the front. Unplug the connection for the headlights which will be about 100mm from back of the lights. This enables you to take the whole light assembly out without disconnecting bulbs etc. I had to relocate my oil cooler as it was sitting right where the cooler was to go. This was installed last so it didn't interfere with the cooler pipes. I also had to relocate my high low boost switch, as it was sitting where the pipe from the turbo was to run. I decided to run my pipes to the cooler before mounting it so I knew the pipes would match up. I started installing the pipes from the throttle body. Because I have the flow meter after the cooler, that was the next section to go in. I had to dummy mount the large bottom section of pipe with some cable ties, so it was in position for me to join it to the bend over the dizzy. Once I knew where the pipes meet the outlet of the cooler I could dummy fit the cooler and mark where the holes were to be drilled. Where the piece runs under the radiator there was a power steering line that restricted the pipe from sitting as high as it should. To overcome this I simply unscrewed the mounts and pushed it up about an inch so it sat on a ridge near the base of the radiator. Next I bolted up the cooler which is a close to the air con fan as possible. Here is a pic of where the bolts went. I then installed the hose and pipe that leads through the wall into the engine bay. This will give me a rough idea of where the hole is to be drilled. The piece was also installed from the turbo to make sure the hole was going to be drilled in the right place. I used a 3" hole saw for this. Once the hole is cut I trimmed some fuel hose to go around the outside of the hole so it wasn't sharp. The 3" hole has enough play in it for some error. All the clamps were done up tight. I plugged the air flow meter back in. And started my baby up. Because the airflow meter is now in the pipe work I will have to decide on how I will run a pipe off the entry of the turbo to a pod filter Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

on the last picture you have the two yellow pipes coming out of the rocker cover. I have the original setup and i just wanted to know what you have done with them. cause i have just bought one of these kits and will have to do something with the hose towards the back

might i suggest shielding the AFM from the exhaust manifold somehow. good DIY with pics though, well done.

The two yellow hoses are going to an oil catch can which is down near where the fuel lines come into the engine bay. You could always block the back one and leave the one going into the plenum. Or a catch can is like 60 bucks and I can sell you some hose and rocker cover fittings. Yes the heat sheild will go back on after the turbo is put back in.

excellent tech article Tim, Im sure it will help alot of people! Dean

Pics with the front bar on. Had to do a little cutting off the lower bar to fit, only cause I used the original air con fan. I used the original piping that runs to the original air flow meter spot but just attached my K&N pod to the rubber hose bit for now. Once the bar was on I relocated my oil cooler to the right hand guard. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

looks good mate, how does it run with the AFM where it is? is it sluggish or faster?

No lag at all. Engine starts straight away. It's good to have nothing before the turbo inlet at the drags. JSPEC supplied a piece of alluminium that goes on the airflow meter to stop pop offs too. So far I have screwed boost up to 14 psi and shes going like no tommorow. Intercooler flutter is loud as. Will be getting BOV mount welded on the pipe work soon.

GREAT TECH ARTICLE RB30X COULDNT HAVE DONE BETTER MYSELF. IM GLAD YOU TOOK THE TIME TO DO IT MATE CAUSE I TELL YOU WHAT i DIDNT HAVE THE TIME AND STILL DONT... ALSO THE PIPING SETUP HAS CHANGED SLIGHTLY TO WHAT YOU HAVE THERE BUT THIS ARTICLE WILL SUFFICE CHEERS MARC

these are great kits for a basic or modified setup due to the fact that they are cheap and of top quality... cheers hamoud..

what do u mean by "pop offs"... is the loud flutter caused by the afm being in the cooler piping?

You might not see in the picks but JSPEC puts a ridge around the ends of the pipes so the silicone hose doesn't pop off with the hose clamp holding it on. On the end of the airflow meter there is just slippery plastic and no matter how tight you do up the hose clamp it will still slide off, "pop off". So this bit of alluminium goes over the slippery plastic and has a ridge so the silicone hose bites in. cheers

Thast rite. The piece of alluminium that goes over the a.f.m is pressed on quite tight.Bit of urathane or sealant just to be sure. We have wound up boost on this sort of setup to about 18psi with not a pop off in sight.........Looks trippy too......no clamp or nothing. Looks part of the a.f.m..

i like the kit and all but not to keen on where the afm sits.

they can put the afm where ever you want just ask. this way removes restrictions before the turbo.

having the air flow meter up near the throttle body and after the blow off valve will help with fuel mixtures wont it.. like when the blow off valve lets air out, that air wont have allready gone past the afm, so the ecu wont know the air is sposed to be there, and wont pump in more fuel?? or not???

That is correct. I don't think I am going to run a BOV now though. Also helps the engine to idle when coming to a stop. JSPEC said in manuals with standard afm location, stalling is sometimes common.

just a question i cant install mine cause the accelerater cable bracket is in the way so how would i get around that

I had to mount mine on the cruise control side. If your is even closer to the throttle cable mount then mine, you may have to get a braket welded onto the pipe to hold the cable.

Just wondering If you dont want to run a catch can, Couldn't you just extend the hoses back to the orginal spot? Would that work? Or do they need to goto a catch can, depending on the boost running?