Having a problem that has just come up recently, since i had to start the car on a cold cold morning at 6:20 am , took a bit longer to start than usual, then driving it after a fair warm up, coming to a set of lights, putting my foot on the brake to a stop and the car went to idle and went straight down below 500rpm and switched off, started up drove a bit more...happend a few more times and then seemed not to happen. a week later, and now the car is still taking a lot longer to turn on, and the idle is terrible, i have to keep my rev's up above 1000rpm for the car not to conk out when im idling in traffic / at the lights.... even when ive given the car an absolute thrashing and it goes fantastic, when i come to a stop and switch down in gears (manual auto) , it will still idle really lumpy and switch off UNLESS i keep the revs up... im assuming this is a cold start problem ?? im not really to sure, any insight or advice would be great.... (hopefully this wont cost more than $400 to fix... very low $ atm... !) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

man id be thinkign ur ignitino timming is out. mine was got my car dynoed and tunned perfecto and now it starts 1st turn of the key, doesnt matter how cold it its, never ran better. as simple as getting ur car chucked up on the dyno and ur timming and mixtures perfected. could be something to do with ur auto, sorry i didnt really answer ur idling problems,

could also b your air flow meter mine did the same low idel, hard to start

who fixed u up with timing / ignition david ?? did u see that MRC guy?? spanners, how much was it to get fixed?

Check the static timing is correct. (If its retarted you lose idle torque, causing stalling) Check that the base idle rpm is correct. (It should be 600rpm +or- 50rpm with aac valve disconnected and engine warm) Check that the Cold Start Air Reg is opening when cold and the car should be idling on approx 1100rpm when first started. (This bypasses air for fast idle obviouslly when cold) Check for vacuum leaks (perished hoses, loose hose clamps, atmo bov etc etc) Check coolant temp sensor is in spec, if this is not reading correctly, the ecu won't inject extra fuel required when car is cold. (About 2.1k or so when cold and down to 200ohms or so, when hot)

Sounds like AFM or CAS symtoms...Check wiring or any connections...Running rich?

same problem, but mine becomes normal after 10 mins of driving when its warm ye and its annoying to hold the brake and rev above 1000rpm, my auto was taken out a few times not sure if thats the problem, and i have a exhaust leak.. Dark VL i think we both need a good dyno tune mate.

i just pinched 1 from the wreckers there the same for n/a and turbo

yeh man goto mrc get him to dyno it and get all ur mixtures and timming adjusted. dyno is a must to preserve engine life. running rich or lean is not optimal, mixtures need to be perfected for best performance/ reliability

I vote for air flow meter. Although if it is only when you put your foot on the brake, then check the brake booster for a vacuum leak.

interesting you say that jordy, as im pretty sure the problem becomes worse when i apply pressure to the brake, like it seems as though it wants to cut out more when im braking (which would explain why it starts to go at traffic lights etc..) hmmmm gunna get someone to look at it sometime this week, will let you guys know.

Well guys, the problem only got worse and worse since i last posted, the car was taking AGES to start, and felt like absolute ****.... steering felt weird, the revs where going up much higher than usual... it seemed the car had no balls untill 3000rpm (when boost came on) ... something was definately up. Unfourtunately i didnt drive it to my normal mechanic..... and took it to these guys who are really good... but charge through the asshole.... anyways, turns out its the AIR MASS METER... i asked him if he meant air flow? but he kept saying it was called the air mass meter... he said they are $600ish from holden and $400 and something brand new from bosch .. anyways i just wanna know if that seems right for a brand new one ?? im gunna be looking at $650 + for this part and labour.... (cause they tested other **** etc first...) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

just go and get a second hand air flow meter (air mass meter = same difference) from the wreckers for like $30 or $40 and put it in youself and be done.....

is there anywhere that i can get a new one cheaper than $400 , as ive had bad experience with 2nd hand parts... (keep having to go back and get more cause most of them are ****ed) any ideas? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

you couuld get up to 10 second hand ones for your $400!!! have to be a good one amongst them?? also when you get one from wreckers just change it over while you're still there then if the afm you get from them is rooted you can swap it over straight away!

thats 1 for me i take it Some original photos have not been recovered yet.